Have a Question/s About Wheels/Tires/Offsets/Camber/Etc? Ask here::
#2926
Could I get by Putting the following set up on a 2004 G35 Sedan stock set up
19x9.5,19x10.5 +12
Falken FK452- 225/40/19, 245/40/19
What adjustments do i need to make to look proper
Do i have to buy a camber kit, Spacer etc..
Id like to drop it a tad to get a nice level stance....
Thanks again gents..
19x9.5,19x10.5 +12
Falken FK452- 225/40/19, 245/40/19
What adjustments do i need to make to look proper
Do i have to buy a camber kit, Spacer etc..
Id like to drop it a tad to get a nice level stance....
Thanks again gents..
#2927
The back is easy, -2.5 degrees and a 245/35 or 255/35 should do the trick. Just make sure the fenders are 100% flat as they will need to be for that set up.
Alright Blaine trying to finalize my wheel build...slammed on Megan coils and trying to stay within or as close to factory specs, going to be running 255/35 rear and 235/35 front....what is the lowest offset I can go with with everything I got? And rear fenders rolled flat by Shane btw
Drew's numbers are pretty close to what you'll want, I know with the Z right now with large 275 on 10.5 +12 I have probably 4mm of clearance with a flat roll, add 10mm to that and give it say 20mm of stretch (245) and the rear is easily able to do +2
The front is also really easy and fender work is your friend for front fitment. If you go too aggressive it's easy to correct with a very minor unnoticeable pull.
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Camv35 (03-01-2012)
#2928
Could I get by Putting the following set up on a 2004 G35 Sedan stock set up
19x9.5,19x10.5 +12
Falken FK452- 225/40/19, 245/40/19
What adjustments do i need to make to look proper
Do i have to buy a camber kit, Spacer etc..
Id like to drop it a tad to get a nice level stance....
Thanks again gents..
19x9.5,19x10.5 +12
Falken FK452- 225/40/19, 245/40/19
What adjustments do i need to make to look proper
Do i have to buy a camber kit, Spacer etc..
Id like to drop it a tad to get a nice level stance....
Thanks again gents..
The front will fit with natural camber on a 3" drop.
Personally, I'd go with a +22 wheel and roll the rears and natural camber will take care of the rest.
#2929
You're not going to pull this off if you have to ask. A start would be switching to 225/35 and 245/35, then coilovers, then camber arms for the rear.
The front will fit with natural camber on a 3" drop.
Personally, I'd go with a +22 wheel and roll the rears and natural camber will take care of the rest.
The front will fit with natural camber on a 3" drop.
Personally, I'd go with a +22 wheel and roll the rears and natural camber will take care of the rest.
#2931
#2932
I've stopped recommending the hankooks after this past summer.
General Gmaxs seem to be holding up well. But it really depends what you're stretching for. Since all tire run differently... Like a 255/35 Nankang runs like a 245/35 michelin PS2.
What offset are you trying to fit? You may not need such an aggressive stretch,
General Gmaxs seem to be holding up well. But it really depends what you're stretching for. Since all tire run differently... Like a 255/35 Nankang runs like a 245/35 michelin PS2.
What offset are you trying to fit? You may not need such an aggressive stretch,
#2933
Hey guys, i know this thread is for wheel/tire questions. But i guess my question will fit in here, since its affecting tires.
I went to the tuning company that does suspension. And the guy told me that i will need a radius arm camber and toe for the rear. I did my search on here and found nothing about radius arms once the car is dropped.
So mu questions are: Can i get away with just a camber and a toe adjustments in the rear? Is he trying to just sell the product or do i really nead radius arms? What will it hurt if i will leave oem radius arms?
Thanks
I went to the tuning company that does suspension. And the guy told me that i will need a radius arm camber and toe for the rear. I did my search on here and found nothing about radius arms once the car is dropped.
So mu questions are: Can i get away with just a camber and a toe adjustments in the rear? Is he trying to just sell the product or do i really nead radius arms? What will it hurt if i will leave oem radius arms?
Thanks
#2935
Hey guys, i know this thread is for wheel/tire questions. But i guess my question will fit in here, since its affecting tires.
I went to the tuning company that does suspension. And the guy told me that i will need a radius arm camber and toe for the rear. I did my search on here and found nothing about radius arms once the car is dropped.
So mu questions are: Can i get away with just a camber and a toe adjustments in the rear? Is he trying to just sell the product or do i really nead radius arms? What will it hurt if i will leave oem radius arms?
Thanks
I went to the tuning company that does suspension. And the guy told me that i will need a radius arm camber and toe for the rear. I did my search on here and found nothing about radius arms once the car is dropped.
So mu questions are: Can i get away with just a camber and a toe adjustments in the rear? Is he trying to just sell the product or do i really nead radius arms? What will it hurt if i will leave oem radius arms?
Thanks
What you need are rear camber arms and toe bolts. These adjust camber and toe. (camber is the vertical angle in which the wheel will sit) (Toe is basically the horizontal angle they will sit)
Not having these adjustment tools will result in faster tire wear.
What suspension are you running? I would only recommend these products if the car is lowered more than 1.5 inches. If it's a 1" drop then tell him to align it as close to oem as possible.
Let me know and I'll give you some help, if you need the camber arms and toe bolts I can point you in the right direction to get those parts.
It's going to look incredibly stupid, but yes you can, you'll need a spacer for the wheel to clear the strut though. Message Tian as he's running 20x10.5 +25 up front and has it down pretty good.
#2936
The guy is trying to sound smarter than what's really happening.
What you need are rear camber arms and toe bolts. These adjust camber and toe. (camber is the vertical angle in which the wheel will sit) (Toe is basically the horizontal angle they will sit)
Not having these adjustment tools will result in faster tire wear.
What suspension are you running? I would only recommend these products if the car is lowered more than 1.5 inches. If it's a 1" drop then tell him to align it as close to oem as possible.
Let me know and I'll give you some help, if you need the camber arms and toe bolts I can point you in the right direction to get those parts.
What you need are rear camber arms and toe bolts. These adjust camber and toe. (camber is the vertical angle in which the wheel will sit) (Toe is basically the horizontal angle they will sit)
Not having these adjustment tools will result in faster tire wear.
What suspension are you running? I would only recommend these products if the car is lowered more than 1.5 inches. If it's a 1" drop then tell him to align it as close to oem as possible.
Let me know and I'll give you some help, if you need the camber arms and toe bolts I can point you in the right direction to get those parts.
From some of the reading I've done on here, it looks like that after the drop, specs should be different from OEM settings.
This is what I am talking about, see below
Factory specs are the amount of misalignment* necessary with OEM as built suspension to maximize MPG at 55 mph. When every you lower or redesign the suspension [wheels, tires, springs, etc] you must create a new set of YOUR Alignment specs.
Most don't understand this and copy oem specs because they do not have engineering expertise or test equipment necessary.
* misalignment sitting still so that it is optimum on highway at speed when the bushings are compressed by forward speed. Tires are forced rearward and straight [toe] by rotation forces.
Most don't understand this and copy oem specs because they do not have engineering expertise or test equipment necessary.
* misalignment sitting still so that it is optimum on highway at speed when the bushings are compressed by forward speed. Tires are forced rearward and straight [toe] by rotation forces.
NOTE: if I have posted this in a wrong thread, please direct me to the correct one.
#2938
I've stopped recommending the hankooks after this past summer.
General Gmaxs seem to be holding up well. But it really depends what you're stretching for. Since all tire run differently... Like a 255/35 Nankang runs like a 245/35 michelin PS2.
What offset are you trying to fit? You may not need such an aggressive stretch,
General Gmaxs seem to be holding up well. But it really depends what you're stretching for. Since all tire run differently... Like a 255/35 Nankang runs like a 245/35 michelin PS2.
What offset are you trying to fit? You may not need such an aggressive stretch,
#2939
#2940
ok ive posted this question in another thread and got about 85 views and NO replies, so ill try here.
I have a 03.5 sport sedan, premium package. I have the 17 inch 5 spoke sport rims. i saw on jdmparts.com that the 03 skyline 350gt sport sedan has the same exact wheels only they are made by Rays. same dimensions same offset same tire size. Are the early sport sedan 17's on the G also made by Rays?
Also, Ive noticed not many 03 sedans include the sport package. Comared to other versions of the G, are the 1st gen sport packages rare finds? Thanks for the help!
I have a 03.5 sport sedan, premium package. I have the 17 inch 5 spoke sport rims. i saw on jdmparts.com that the 03 skyline 350gt sport sedan has the same exact wheels only they are made by Rays. same dimensions same offset same tire size. Are the early sport sedan 17's on the G also made by Rays?
Also, Ive noticed not many 03 sedans include the sport package. Comared to other versions of the G, are the 1st gen sport packages rare finds? Thanks for the help!