used a constant power. works awesome. just completed the install at midnight last night. Whew. This thread saved the day. Wrathernaut and everyone else who posted in this are my heros THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I hope you meant accessory or switched power... the only constant power would be the yellow wire going to the radio, that'd drain your battery, whereas either of the two I recommended would not.

Hope you just misspoke.

 

lol i did.

 

subscrite

 

so if i wanted to yank out the bose system and put in new speakers and new amp. would i run speaker wire directly from the amp to the speakers while using the 7550 harness?

 

Here's wehat I did. I am running a kenwood double din that powers my door speakers. I'm using a seperate amp for my 2 10's. I used the 7550 harness and bypassed my bose amp altogether. I took the plug out of the bose amp and hooked all the shielded "incoming" speaker wires to the un shielded "outgoing" speaker wires. So my bose stuff is not used at all. Works perfect and sound great!

 

The harness wouldn't matter at that point, 70-7550, or 70-7551, both would work the same, since you'd run your own RCAs from the headunit to the amp. From the amp, you can run your own wire to the speakers or use the wiring from the bose amp that's already in the trunk (which is what I did).

 

Question: What would I have to do to bypass the bose amp and use the factory wiring to the door/ rear side panel speakers? Is that even possible? right now all my plans allow for are the JDM DD and most likely a Pioneer AVH-P8400BH.

In the future I would like to upgrade to a discreet amp and components up front and coax's in the rear side panel, possibly throw in my old mmats 12 and hifonics 1000W amp.

 

I bypassed the bose amp and used the factory wiring for all my speakers. I used a 7550 harness, hooked up the harness to the factory harness behind the deck. I ran a set of rca's for my sub amp. Then I went to the trunk and unplugged my bose amp and connected all the incoming speaker leads to the outgoing ones. I had to cut the wiring at the plug but I kept enough wire incase I ever wanted to hook it all back up again. It sounds great.

 

Skyline, be sure to check back to the 8400 thread before you start your install, I updated post #1 to consolidate some of the useful information.

I'm going to install a set of components and a mid amp today. When I installed my DD I went ahead an ran all the power and RCA lines ahead of time. So today all I'm going to do is run some speaker wire and disconnect my Bose amp - good to go.

 

is there a thread on how to bypass the amp, ive been searching left and right and cant fnd anything

 

I unplugged the harness from the bose amp, turned on my stereo and started testing

i'm sure there are threads somewhere, but I'll look tomorrow if i have time at the colors I spliced into. but in short, take those leads and run them to your amp, if im not mistaken, they are all line signals, meaning the signals sent wont power speakers, they need to be sent to an amp.

 

I bypassed the amp. It works fine. I jotted down the colors at the time but I wasn't exactly clear when I wrote them down. When you look on the bose amp plug, all the incoming wires are shielded and all the outgoing ones aren't. The colors become very obvious when you start looking into it. Here is what I wrote down while doing it at the time.
Incoming. Outgoing.
FL+ W. L.
FL- B. B/W.
FR+ G. BR.
FR- R. B/R.
RR+ L. OR.
RR- P. B/P.
RL+ BR. LG.
RL- Y. BY.
All the colors with a / indicate a tracer color on the wire. Like I said, its very apparent while doing it. When I did it I checked each speaker as I hooked the wires up to insure it was faded and balanced correctly on my deck. Good luck! I hope this helps you!

 

Sorry, for some reason it won't post it the way I write it. Each wire color has a "." After it.

 

I'm not sure if you up for it but another option is to just run new line. Total bypass.