that could explain why. I noticed that with significant color gain across the band, equal lighting output loss. So you should compare the stock one with the one you modded. Then finely adjust the shield DOWNWARDS, just enough so bi-xenon still works. You will lose some color, but gain much in foreground lighting. A comparison between stock and your modded one should show the difference. I noticed this when I compare two modded ones that I did at different times, one has more color but dimmer. The lens is loose I know, but you could tighten it by putting the lens holder back on and instead of using the indents from stock, just twist it tight. This usually works for me.
are you using a TSX lens?
are you using a TSX lens?
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I did compare it to stock, and the stock one was slightly brighter, but more focused in the center, after the lense swap, the lighting appears more consistant across but with slightly less output. I'm using a tsx lense, and compared to a colormodded tsx, the output is less, but with more even cutoff color, the colormodded tsx only had color in the center and didn't extend the entire width of the cutoff. I haven't tested the bixenon feature yet, which wire is ground and which is positive? they are both red.
with the socket upright. Left is Negative and Right is positive. You can make sure by looking at the stock harness.
It looks nice for sure, try turning the lens in the holder, see if that will make the rainbow go away.
It looks nice for sure, try turning the lens in the holder, see if that will make the rainbow go away.
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i just did this mod. without that spacer it looks like the cut off shield inside vibrates with the car. It moves with every bump. Not sure if i like that or not..
Ive been looking into remedies for that..but it appears that it doesnt happen in every case. It has to do with the way you bend the shield down, if it's leaned against the sides of the projector, it has better retension rate and doesn't vibrate. a modified bracket might be necessary.
In any case..you have results to show us?
In any case..you have results to show us?
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here's a picture.

Like you guys discussed, as the shield is higher, the cut off line is sharper with vibrant color but the foreground light is greatly reduced. It was really difficult finding a happy medium. I would have a sharp cut off at 20 feet but at 60 feet the cut off would be extremely blurred so I had to compensate that too.. ughh

Like you guys discussed, as the shield is higher, the cut off line is sharper with vibrant color but the foreground light is greatly reduced. It was really difficult finding a happy medium. I would have a sharp cut off at 20 feet but at 60 feet the cut off would be extremely blurred so I had to compensate that too.. ughh
I understand. I lost some of my cutoff on my TL's but got more color so I'm still happy. 

because the projector is like a magnifying lens , you can only get true focus of one particular distance. a blurred cutoff at a distance is good in the sense that your eyes will be greatly strained by the high contrast as a result of the sharp cutoff. Since you are staring into the distance while driving, it's better to not have such sharp cutoff. That's why most are focused at around 25' to be sharp and it blurrs eventually in the distance. But there are cases where the projector does well in pretty sharp cutoff at most distances (S2K)
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one way I've helped limit the shield vibration is to bend the shield ring to the right a little bit, so the slot that the selonoid goes into is then held tightly rather than be slightly loose within the slot. I'll try to get pics later of what I mean.
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I've heard you can bend the spacer bar that holds the shield down up slightly so the shield sits higher but still holds the shield in place. I'll try it one of these days, but my retrofit keeps getting pushed back due to the GF
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Quote:
thanks for the info.. i try it out.Originally Posted by redlude97
one way I've helped limit the shield vibration is to bend the shield ring to the right a little bit, so the slot that the selonoid goes into is then held tightly rather than be slightly loose within the slot. I'll try to get pics later of what I mean.
