DIY: Rear Wheel Bearing Removal
#91
02-10-2011, 05:31 PM
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I just finished doing my left rear and here are a few tips that might help
* Remove the driveshaft - for the 7 extra nuts/bolts it really makes life so much easier to see what you are doing and you can clean the drive splines and grease them
* Axle nut - I broke my 1/2 breaker bar trying to get the damned thing off. Use a propane torch and heat it up first.
I was able to hit it with an electric impact gun and after a minute of clattering away it slowly came off *phew*
I found I did not need a puller to push the axle from the hub but if it's stubborn and you must beat on the axle, put the nut back on it so the threads are flush and use a sacrificial socket on the nut then wail away, the nut has a flange on it so the socket will push the axle out and save your threads.... again, that torch is your friend !
If you pay attention and are careful you do not need a press to install the hub - I removed the hub/bearing and was able to drive the hub out of the bearing with the race stuck to the hub as shown in the pictures shown in earlier posts.
I used a high speed grinder with a cut off wheel and CAREFULLY cut the race 180 degrees as far as possible without nicking the hub - after that I hit it with a chisel and the race cracked in two.
Cleaned the hub with emery cloth and stuck it in a pan with ice/water and left it in the freezer for a few hours.
I used the head of a 13# sledge hammer that was 4" diameter, 5"high and placed the hub studs facing down so the bore of the hub was resting on the head ( any good solid chunk of metal will work as long as the wheel studs are not taking the stress)
I warmed up the bearing with a heat gun (emphasis on warm NOT hot) then carefully set the hub into the bearing and lightly seated it with my weight then tapping with a small hammer.
Freezing the hub will shrink the hub and heating the bearing will expand it- Makes things go much easier!
Once I was sure everything was square I used an old 1/2 thick flat steel bracket set on the bearing and seated everything with a 2# hand sledge.
It really didn't take that much force to get it seated - All I really wanted to do was get the hub started and take it to my friends press but it went really easy so I continued on and lucked out.
I will add though if you really are not experienced in driving bearing/races out and having the feel for when something is not right do not even try what i did... I saw someone posted that "if you don't know which way to loosen a bolt you shouldn't be doing this stuff"... It does sound mean but to a point is true.
* Remove the driveshaft - for the 7 extra nuts/bolts it really makes life so much easier to see what you are doing and you can clean the drive splines and grease them
* Axle nut - I broke my 1/2 breaker bar trying to get the damned thing off. Use a propane torch and heat it up first.
I was able to hit it with an electric impact gun and after a minute of clattering away it slowly came off *phew*
I found I did not need a puller to push the axle from the hub but if it's stubborn and you must beat on the axle, put the nut back on it so the threads are flush and use a sacrificial socket on the nut then wail away, the nut has a flange on it so the socket will push the axle out and save your threads.... again, that torch is your friend !
If you pay attention and are careful you do not need a press to install the hub - I removed the hub/bearing and was able to drive the hub out of the bearing with the race stuck to the hub as shown in the pictures shown in earlier posts.
I used a high speed grinder with a cut off wheel and CAREFULLY cut the race 180 degrees as far as possible without nicking the hub - after that I hit it with a chisel and the race cracked in two.
Cleaned the hub with emery cloth and stuck it in a pan with ice/water and left it in the freezer for a few hours.
I used the head of a 13# sledge hammer that was 4" diameter, 5"high and placed the hub studs facing down so the bore of the hub was resting on the head ( any good solid chunk of metal will work as long as the wheel studs are not taking the stress)
I warmed up the bearing with a heat gun (emphasis on warm NOT hot) then carefully set the hub into the bearing and lightly seated it with my weight then tapping with a small hammer.
Freezing the hub will shrink the hub and heating the bearing will expand it- Makes things go much easier!
Once I was sure everything was square I used an old 1/2 thick flat steel bracket set on the bearing and seated everything with a 2# hand sledge.
It really didn't take that much force to get it seated - All I really wanted to do was get the hub started and take it to my friends press but it went really easy so I continued on and lucked out.
I will add though if you really are not experienced in driving bearing/races out and having the feel for when something is not right do not even try what i did... I saw someone posted that "if you don't know which way to loosen a bolt you shouldn't be doing this stuff"... It does sound mean but to a point is true.
#92
02-10-2011, 08:17 PM
Registered User
^thanks for the tips buddy! My hub is like completely "forged" to the axle! I tried slide hammers, sledge hammers, and a chisel. I'm positive if I was able to remove the drive shaft from the car I could hammer the old hub out from the back but with the limited room under Jack stands there's just no way. Nissan quoted me roughly 220 for the job so as soon as my rotors and pads come I'll take it to them.
Interesting side note: I would hear the "whirr" of the bad bearing but eventually my car started to wobble terribly at highway speeds. It was intermittent though; somedays not at all and somedays it sounded like I was driving on train tracks. After 2 miles though it would stop. It always got worse after right turns. Then I started smelling burning metal from the drivers rear rotor. I'm a 6mt so on hills usually in neutral I drift back a bit before 1st gear catches- not anymore! it felt like the parking brake was up when it wasn't. I discovered my left rear caliper had siezed and was causing drag and excess heat to the axle which is hell on bearings! Therefore, I'm not sure what came first- the bad bearing which can damage the caliper if not attended to right away or the siezed caliper which will destroy your bearings...
Infiniti wants $328 for a new caliper but I'm thinking I should just rebuild mine with a kit for like $50. Any input?
Interesting side note: I would hear the "whirr" of the bad bearing but eventually my car started to wobble terribly at highway speeds. It was intermittent though; somedays not at all and somedays it sounded like I was driving on train tracks. After 2 miles though it would stop. It always got worse after right turns. Then I started smelling burning metal from the drivers rear rotor. I'm a 6mt so on hills usually in neutral I drift back a bit before 1st gear catches- not anymore! it felt like the parking brake was up when it wasn't. I discovered my left rear caliper had siezed and was causing drag and excess heat to the axle which is hell on bearings! Therefore, I'm not sure what came first- the bad bearing which can damage the caliper if not attended to right away or the siezed caliper which will destroy your bearings...
Infiniti wants $328 for a new caliper but I'm thinking I should just rebuild mine with a kit for like $50. Any input?
#93
02-10-2011, 09:14 PM
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Location: Pot St. Lucie, Fl
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I would heat the hell out of it and keep trying to beat the axle out or use a good gear puller along with heat - reef down on the puller while heating the hub and maybe spray good penetrating oil on the splines.
Sometimes hitting the puller bolt helps too.
Once the axle is out the hub/housing should come out - play it safe and buy the hub/bearing assy new, don't even try to save that mess.
It's hard to say if rebuilding the caliper would work without doing an "autopsy" on it - you would have to see how bad the piston and bore is.
How worn were your brake pads ?
I have seen pistons get cocked due to the piston having to come out further in the bores than normal and not retracting fully causing dragging/ heat
Sometimes hitting the puller bolt helps too.
Once the axle is out the hub/housing should come out - play it safe and buy the hub/bearing assy new, don't even try to save that mess.
It's hard to say if rebuilding the caliper would work without doing an "autopsy" on it - you would have to see how bad the piston and bore is.
How worn were your brake pads ?
I have seen pistons get cocked due to the piston having to come out further in the bores than normal and not retracting fully causing dragging/ heat
#94
02-11-2011, 05:13 AM
Registered User
^+1 about the piston over extending. My pads were worn down nearly to the metal backing. However, no one pad was worn more than the other; they were worn evenly. The brake dust was all over my wheel. I checked the other rear wheel to compare and they were only about 50% worn. Normally when you remove the caliper bolts, the caliper should slide right off of the pads. I had to beat mine off with a hammer, lol! Tried using some vice grip pliers to reset the piston but it won't budge. Papa Auto parts has a remanufactured caliper for $120 with the core charge. I will buy that and slap it on for now and attempt to rebuild my OEM caliper- I just don't trust non OEM parts...
#95
02-18-2011, 11:01 AM
#97
02-21-2011, 09:03 PM
I was able to take the caliper bolts off! I took the 22mm caliper bolts out with the help of my jack. I used my hydraulic jack to "turn" the breaker bar. With the 1000lbs of force I was able to slowly loosen the bolts. I had to do this for the 4 bearing bolts as well.
EASY TIP: This is only if you are changing the bearings in the front. After you take the wheel off you can turn the steering wheel to make the bolts easily accessible and it will give you more room to stick your breaker bar/socket in. BE SURE BOTH SIDES ARE ON JACK STANDS. DO NOT TURN THE STEERING WHEEL IF THE OTHER SIDE IS NOT ON A JACK STAND. You will have to turn the wheel to get the 4th bearing bolt out. The 4th bolt is near the compression rod and your socket will not fit perfectly if your wheels are straight. Example, if you are changing the bearing on the passenger side then you turn the steering wheel to the passenger side. This will give you much better access at the caliper bolts and then bearing bolts.
WARNING 1: One stupid problem I encountered was that after I put the new bearing on I put the brake dust shield backwards so it was scraping the rotor. I was pissed. I had already torqued the 4 bearing bolts to spec. I had to take it off and flip the brake dust shield and then it was good. So before you take out the brake shield take note of how it is placed.
WARNING 2: The 4 bearing bolts are not evenly distanced. So align the new bearing first before screwing the bolts in. There are 2 bolts at the top and 2 bolts at the bottom. But the distance from the top and the bottom is different for the bolts on the right. I put it on upside down and I couldn't screw one of the bolts in. So put all 4 bolts in and then visually align them to the 4 holes on the bearing. I ran into this problem and I was pissed because I had already screwed in 3 of the bolts. I hadn't torqued them, but it takes for ever to screw/unscrew them.
With my tips above it will make it easier for you to remove and install the new bearing. It took me about 5 hours with these mistakes so it should take you less. I am going to do the driver side some time later when I have time. It hasn't gone bad yet, but it gives me peace of mind if I keep both sides "even".
EASY TIP: This is only if you are changing the bearings in the front. After you take the wheel off you can turn the steering wheel to make the bolts easily accessible and it will give you more room to stick your breaker bar/socket in. BE SURE BOTH SIDES ARE ON JACK STANDS. DO NOT TURN THE STEERING WHEEL IF THE OTHER SIDE IS NOT ON A JACK STAND. You will have to turn the wheel to get the 4th bearing bolt out. The 4th bolt is near the compression rod and your socket will not fit perfectly if your wheels are straight. Example, if you are changing the bearing on the passenger side then you turn the steering wheel to the passenger side. This will give you much better access at the caliper bolts and then bearing bolts.
WARNING 1: One stupid problem I encountered was that after I put the new bearing on I put the brake dust shield backwards so it was scraping the rotor. I was pissed. I had already torqued the 4 bearing bolts to spec. I had to take it off and flip the brake dust shield and then it was good. So before you take out the brake shield take note of how it is placed.
WARNING 2: The 4 bearing bolts are not evenly distanced. So align the new bearing first before screwing the bolts in. There are 2 bolts at the top and 2 bolts at the bottom. But the distance from the top and the bottom is different for the bolts on the right. I put it on upside down and I couldn't screw one of the bolts in. So put all 4 bolts in and then visually align them to the 4 holes on the bearing. I ran into this problem and I was pissed because I had already screwed in 3 of the bolts. I hadn't torqued them, but it takes for ever to screw/unscrew them.
With my tips above it will make it easier for you to remove and install the new bearing. It took me about 5 hours with these mistakes so it should take you less. I am going to do the driver side some time later when I have time. It hasn't gone bad yet, but it gives me peace of mind if I keep both sides "even".
Last edited by surma884; 02-21-2011 at 09:25 PM.
#99
02-26-2011, 12:12 AM
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Last edited by Deezflip; 02-26-2011 at 12:18 AM.
#101
02-26-2011, 01:42 PM
I just finished doing my left rear and here are a few tips that might help
* Axle nut - I broke my 1/2 breaker bar trying to get the damned thing off. Use a propane torch and heat it up first.
I was able to hit it with an electric impact gun and after a minute of clattering away it slowly came off *phew*
* Axle nut - I broke my 1/2 breaker bar trying to get the damned thing off. Use a propane torch and heat it up first.
I was able to hit it with an electric impact gun and after a minute of clattering away it slowly came off *phew*
, I broke my 1/2 breaker also!...luckily i was able to replace a craftsman for free at sears. It feels like I'm about to break this second one again, I'm just taking a break right now. I'm tempted to get a 3/4 breaker bar and socket...or even an impact wrench.
#102
02-26-2011, 10:36 PM
#103
03-01-2011, 10:50 AM
Holy shhhh....t, I'm done! all 4 bearings DONE. Thank god for my neighbor who probably felt sorry for me and insisted in letting me borrow his impact gun.
FYI, my car being 2003...the older and longer these components left untouched, the more seized up parts you'll come across with...
FYI, my car being 2003...the older and longer these components left untouched, the more seized up parts you'll come across with...
#104
03-01-2011, 11:41 AM
. It was the easiest thing to do out of this whole DIY. I bought a 12-ton press for $99 dollars from harborfreight(I had a coupon). Now I'm considering in returning it since I'll probably never use it again.
#105
03-01-2011, 12:19 PM
LOL. I was thinking of creating my own makeshift press when I need to do my rear. But I'm not sure how much force is need to press the bearing to the hub. If it is only a few hundred pounds then I could maybe think of a way to do it.