yeah, it seemed really effortless, but it could be the 12-ton capacity of the press that made it effortless.

I was also thinking of the same thing though, just making some sort of box frame out of steel and use two car jacks, even the manual scissor carjacks that comes with the car might work.

FYI, I couldn't emphasize enough that the seized bearings/hubs was a pain to remove and occupied most of the time, I figure it would just fall out after removing the four bolts described. I didn't have a slide hammer but I would highly recommend three things...

1)having slide hammer to pull the other half of the bearing off the car
2)an impact gun for the axle nut. Nothing extraordinary, I used an electric one with 240lb of torque, 2700bpm
3)and like others has said, remove the axle from the diff

 

Yea, if I had been able to unbolt the axle from the diff. I probably would have just beat the hub assembly out from the other side with a mallet or something...

 

Planning on replacing my rear bearing within a month. Would you guys recommend just replacing BOTH rear bearings at once? I believe only one is shot, but considering that the car already has 100,000+ miles, maybe doing both would be worth it.

Also, once I'm down there, what components would be recommend to re-grease? (And what type of grease should I use?).

Thanks!

 

Can you type out the part numbers? I can't seem to get it right by looking. Thanks.

 

I replaced the driver front and driver rear. It is up to you. If the other one is not bad, I see no reason to replace them. But if you have money to spend, go ahead. It would wear evenly.

I used Valvoline Sync Power grease. I bought it from Autozone.
http://www.valvoline.com/products/co...-oil/grease/63

 

I'd change all 4 bearings if you are close to 100K. I finally replaced my 4th wheel bearing the other day and cannot believe how much of a difference there is with handling. Every wheel bearing I replaced made the car ride less rough.

 

Put anti-sieze in the axle and on the wheel bearing itself before sliding it in to bolt. Should also be applied to the flat rim of the axle facing the back of the wheel bearing.

 

G35 coupe 2003 - 2007
Hub Assy FRONT axle - 40202 - AL56C or 40202-AL510

Hub Assy REAR axle - 43202AG000
Bearing - REAR axle ,INNER - 43210-AL500
Bearing - REAR axle ,INNER - 43210-AL505 (02/2004 - 08/2006)

G35 sedan 2003 - 2006 (RWD)
Hub Assy FRONT axle - 40202 - AL56C or 40202-AL510

Hub Assy REAR - 43202-AG000
Bearing - REAR axle ,INNER - 43210- AL500 (10/2003 - 02/2004)
Bearing - REAR axle ,INNER - 43210 - AL505 (02/2004 - 08/2006)

G35 sedan 2003 - 2006 (AWD)
Hub Assy FRONT axle - 40202-24U00
Bearing Assy - FRONT axle - 40210-AL800

Hub Assy REAR - 43202-AG000
Bearing - REAR axle ,INNER - 43210- AL500 (10/2003 - 02/2004)
Bearing - REAR axle ,INNER - 43210 - AL505 (02/2004 - 08/2006)


For 2WD Front axle Hub Assy is pre-installed with bearing. On AWD front axle the Hub and Bearing are separate and need to pressed before installing.

 

Are the 43210-AL500 and 43210-AL505 for the RWD interchangeable? Or do 2003 G35's need to stick with 43210-AL500?

 

Yes, 43210-AL500 has been replaced by 43210-AL505 and
40202-AL56C has been replaced by 40202-AL510. They both are same parts.

No idea why Nissan does that.

 

Thank you. And lastly, do any of you happen to know the part number for the cotter pin that should be replaced during replacement of the rear wheel bearing?

 

I guess cotter pin part no is 40073-0L700 for all G35 model. I went to the dealer and bought two under couple of dollars.

 

So for you guys pressing your own bearings...how do you know how far to press?

I need to do both front wheel bearings on my g35x...which is pretty much identical to the rear bearings. I'm reading the FSM and both the fromt and rear bearing instructions say to put a specific tool on the backside of the bearing and press the hub in until it hits the tool. My understanding is this sets the correct distance. Both the front (awd) and rear bearings have a tool.

So how are you guys pressing your bearing and hub together?

 

you can visually see it...and when you get close, pump it slowly and you'll feel a sudden stop or resistant on the lever telling you not to exert more force to it.

Also, i think the specific tool they speak of only prevents pressure applied to the cover of the ball bearings in which the pressure should be applied to the center or outer ring. As for me, i used a socket that i used to remove the hub bolt to press the bearing and seemed to be the perfect size.

 

Ah good, what i needed to hear.