Sway Bar Summary!

  #256  
Old 12-30-2007, 04:35 PM
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This was a great sticky that helped me out when deciding on adjustable sways. I went with Stillen and picked up some Prothane bushings to replace the OEM's. Remember to use the grease on the Prothane's when you install so you don't end up with any annoying squeaks. I'm running Med/Med and I like the set up.
 
  #257  
Old 01-07-2008, 09:17 PM
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I got my Hotchkis bars on last week. Some new info on Hotchkis:

Bars now have collars welded on.
Now have four stiffness settings in the front.
The new back bushings now have grease zerks.

Easy install with a few hand tools, jack and jackstands.

Install instruction in color are on the Hotchkis website.


These puppies REALLY made a difference. This thing corners falt as a
 
  #258  
Old 01-07-2008, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by G35fromPA
unless you choose to remove the center (stock) exhaust section (which you may or may not need to do depending on the bar - Hotchkis says you don't, Stillen says you do).
On my Sedan (05'), I did have to remove the bolts on the rear exhaust section to get the stock bar out and the new one in. Not a big deal, just two bolts and three nuts (one to hold the exhaust ground strap). The biggest PITA was jacking it up and getting it on the stands. Sure some of the bolts were hard to remove, but a good breaker bar or impact wrench and you are good to go.

This is a job for someone that has a modicum of mechanical ability and understands how a suspension works on a car.
 
  #259  
Old 01-07-2008, 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Gsedan35
By the book your right of course. However, as you are very well aware of any course on betterment has to bare out in testing and actual application. Since you are not a owner and you don't look into where owners actually make these things better your going to continue to work the book angle vs real results that are beyond the base principles. Two and a half years ago, I might have said the same thing for that matter. However, my own testing totally does not agree with your thinking that the oem bar is too stiff and that the only the rear bar should be made stiffer. I even tried it the whole oem front bar/aftermarket rear bar thing, ate up the inside's of the front tires in a hurry as the front tires contact patches rolled over and played dead. The secret to this platform is to make the front tires do thier work across the contact patch. In the strongest measure possible I recommend that owner's start with a front and rear adjustable bar setup with the settings set to med/med. If the owner's preference takes them to a soft/med settings after that, so be it.

Tried to send you a PM but your box is full......



I saw your post on the Sway Bar sticky:

Originally Posted by Gsedan35
The secret to this platform is to make the front tires do thier work across the contact patch. In the strongest measure possible I recommend that owner's start with a front and rear adjustable bar setup with the settings set to med/med. If the owner's preference takes them to a soft/med settings after that, so be it.
I just put on my new Hotchkis bars on my 2005 Sport Sedan. The new Hotchkis now have FOUR setting in the front:

Hole 1 = 1525 lbs/in (5% Softer than stock)
Hole 2 = 1845 lbs/in (15% Stiffer than stock)
Hole 3 = 2270 lbs/in (42% Stiffer than stock)
Hole 4 = 2855 lbs/in (78% Stiffer than stock)

Which setting would you recomend I start with. I have the back to full stiff and the front is in the #2 hole. Would you recomend that I back off the rear setting. It seems to corner real flat now. I even like to turn off the VDC now.

One other thing, I have also put in unrevised 350Z springs. I have noticed that the car had become a bit of a "handful" at high speed (100+mph). I have not had the toe checked yet, it's been two weeks, what would you suggest?

Thanks for your help.
 
  #260  
Old 01-13-2008, 02:35 AM
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I'm surprised by the general consensus that there is a slight perceived difference in preference between stillen and hotchkis.

This is why i think they are so different. While hotchkis stiffens up to 5-78% in front and 80-185% in rear, stillen only does between 7-70% on both. Notice that Stillen's range is more balanced where as hotchkis is significantly stiffer in the rear. The car with hotchkis can be setup much softer in front and stiffer in the rear than stillen can. And a stiffer rear suspension (either by spring rate or by sway bar) causes the car to be biased towards oversteer.

Is the range on the stillen bars wide enough make a stiffer rear and to induce oversteer? How is the hotchkis with that?

Any one care to comment on their experience? We've heard enuf about the squeaks and rattles, but how do they handle?
 
  #261  
Old 01-13-2008, 08:54 AM
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Right now, I am set up with the front in hole 3 (42%) and the rear full stiff. I get a little understeer which is nice.
 
  #262  
Old 01-13-2008, 05:17 PM
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understeering?

Originally Posted by Texasscout
Right now, I am set up with the front in hole 3 (42%) and the rear full stiff. I get a little understeer which is nice.
understeer? meaning the car pushes on the front tires rather than oversteers (with the tail sliding out)?
 
  #263  
Old 01-13-2008, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by 328is
understeer? meaning the car pushes on the front tires rather than oversteers (with the tail sliding out)?
My Bad.....

I always get those two mixed up.
 
  #264  
Old 01-30-2008, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by G35fromPA
Installation time shouldn't be more than 2 hrs as long as you have a breaker bar and jackstands, unless you choose to remove the center (stock) exhaust section (which you may or may not need to do depending on the bar - Hotchkis says you don't, Stillen says you do). As far as degree of difficulty, it's a 1.5. It's just loosening a bunch of nuts and bolts, removing and inserting, a bit of grease, and then tightening everything again. You can also leave the wheels on and let them hang if need be. The main difficulty is in getting the car in the air and on jackstands......(condensed)

Ride quality (as far as I can tell so far) is still very good with only a slight increase in bump harshness. Definitely worth the tradeoff, however. This is really how the 03-04 6MT coupes should have come from the factory, but I supposed that's what the 05-07 coupe Sport package was intended to correct.

I got the 06 coupe with sport tuned suspension, and its still too soft, any suggestions, 350evo for a more aggressive sway?
 
  #265  
Old 02-20-2008, 04:24 PM
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Eibach Sway Bars Specifications

I am new here, just bought a 2005. I was researching different bar specs and found this at MY350Z.com

The poster got the information directly from an Eibach engineer.
The front bar 2 settings are 10% and 20% stiffer than stock.
The rear bar 3 settings are 10%, 20% and 35% stiffer than stock.
 
  #266  
Old 03-15-2008, 08:06 AM
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the tech at my dealership said i had to replace 2 bushing brackets & links and an l/s sway bar link.

Any ideas where i can get better than stock replacements for these or should i just go aftermarket, dealership total cost installed for just the above parts $270.94+tax
 
  #267  
Old 03-15-2008, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by clutchless
I am new here, just bought a 2005. I was researching different bar specs and found this at MY350Z.com

The poster got the information directly from an Eibach engineer.
The front bar 2 settings are 10% and 20% stiffer than stock.
The rear bar 3 settings are 10%, 20% and 35% stiffer than stock.
Hotchkis:

350Z & 03- 05 G35 Front:
Hole 1 = 1525 lbs/in (22% Stiffer than stock)
Hole 2 = 1845 lbs/in (48% Stiffer than stock)
Hole 3 = 2270 lbs/in (82% Stiffer than stock)
Hole 4 = 2855 lbs/in (129% Stiffer than stock)

06 G35 Front:
Hole 1 = 1525 lbs/in (5% Softer than stock)
Hole 2 = 1845 lbs/in (15% Stiffer than stock)
Hole 3 = 2270 lbs/in (42% Stiffer than stock)
Hole 4 = 2855 lbs/in (78% Stiffer than stock)

Rear:
Hole 1 = 520 lbs/in (80% Stiffer than stock)
Hole 2 = 655 lbs/in (125% Stiffer than stock)
Hole 3 = 840 lbs/in (185% Stiffer than stock)
Approximate Price: ~$260
 
  #268  
Old 03-16-2008, 09:53 PM
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I just got my Hotchkis set, from Stillen (pretty funny, I know) and I am kind of annoyed by the noise so far from the bushings as well. So far there are no busted end links, but I am thinking I might need to upgrade them (maybe?). I guess the solution is to get some crazy lube for the bushings though, right? That's what a couple of my buddies keep saying that have had the same noise on their Imprezas and such.

Performance of the Hotchkis bars so far: excellent, with the exception of the noise. I also think sway bars are much improved with the combination of a front strut tower brace installed (I got Richie's V2 brace). I am waiting on all the GTSpec bars to arrive soon. Once those are on I am sure the car will be even more fun.

Performance of Stillen vendor: Great and will solve problems quick!

UPDATE: Got some Super Lube (that's the name of the product) from Tacoma Scew Hardware. It's a silicone-based heavy-duty lubricant, since lithium-based grease is not recommended for sway bar application due to water exposure. Comes in a grey squeeze tube (should last a while). Took me a while to do the fronts but I did it diligently. No noise at all! Amazing. Rears are not making the squeaks at all apparently, but I'll do them tomorrow if I get time.
 

Last edited by 425skyline; 03-24-2008 at 07:34 AM.
  #269  
Old 05-11-2008, 06:40 PM
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Sil-Glyde silicone caliper lube works great on poly or rubber bushings. eliminates squeaks and lasts damn near forever. Readily available at any autoparts store
 
  #270  
Old 05-11-2008, 11:32 PM
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Sil-Glyde....

Sounds like a sex lube.
 

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