Quote:
P.S. are the Ohlins the only aluminium body? a "lighter" coilover may be beneficial to keep down weight as I have 20" wheels (street use) on their way.
I would never run a truecoilover rear setup, so all my suggested products run their rear springs in the oem location. Originally Posted by mosoto
The Bilstein are the only ones in your list that seem to have OEM rears. I'd go truecoilover rear if I was strengthening the rear mounting points, as I am not, is it possible to get the cusco2 or HKS3 in OEM rear setups? are Ohlins DFV which are *** built & Valving, a good option? Like Asad above, my car will eventually be my DD with the occasional track day (2-4 p/a).P.S. are the Ohlins the only aluminium body? a "lighter" coilover may be beneficial to keep down weight as I have 20" wheels (street use) on their way.
The Ohlins DFV is a excellent option. To me, it was not appropirate to list anything beyond $1900 in my list given the price point what was mentioned sell's for.
The Ohlins DFV and the original PCV are bulit in Japan by Carrozzeria. That product in imported into the U.S. by Ohlins USA. They aren't valved like the typical JDM product. In fact they are brought here unchanged and were run on Ohlins 7 post shaker suspension testing system before they were offered by them in this country. I have run the PCV version on a shock dyno, the DFV is valved the same and differ's only in that the PCV valving system is also on the rebound side and it has aluminum cases vs the PCV's steel cases. Without revealing too much from the dyno's I ran, at their lowest settings they mirror the Bilstein Pss9 set to full soft. The stiffer settings mirror the valving of the Truechoice Phase 4 coiilover set to full stiff. So, the DFV is a excellent option, for a price.
To be honest, I have not really looked into weight savings enough to know which suspension products are lighter then others. I just know the DFV does have aluminum cases.
Registered User
The Ohlins would be a S/H purchase for me, particularly with import duties etc. adding to the cost. You also mentioned the Bilstein PSS10 adjusters "have an unacceptable dynamic range". Are you saying the damper adjustment is like the teins, soft/hard and no in-between settings? I ask because the Bilstein were my 2nd choice
Registered User
im not sure if i missed something but i just wanna make sure i do the right thing, if you purchas z spec springs are they any mods that you have to do for them to fit correctly or are they a direct replacment, im thinking of the either the tein s tech, or the eibach sportlines..
great sticky by the way!! great info..
thanks
great sticky by the way!! great info..
thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by mosoto
The Ohlins would be a S/H purchase for me, particularly with import duties etc. adding to the cost. You also mentioned the Bilstein PSS10 adjusters "have an unacceptable dynamic range". Are you saying the damper adjustment is like the teins, soft/hard and no in-between settings? I ask because the Bilstein were my 2nd choice
First thing I want to say in defence of Tein, until I see dyno plots for the 350Z Tein CST, Flex and MonoFlex, we cannot label the company as having adjustors that are either ineffective or only adjust one thing or another. I've seen Tein Flex dyno's for the Miata, and in reality, they are pretty darn good. I came really close last month to getting a flex seup for the Z on the dyno, the owner and I unfortunately couldn't meet as we'd hoped, oh well.
To explain about the Pss9/10 adjuster's. Normally, I will let everyone know to not run the setup on settings past 5. At full soft they deliver a ride and drive experience that is excellent, beyond reproach. As you turn them up, things start to decline and once you go past 5. basically taking you into deminishing returns.
When someone mention's track use as you did, it's a different story, picking another product makes more sense because of what is happening valving wise when you set them to settings past 5. Mid speed damping ballon's far too much along with the high speed damping. Yes this is a reslut of the adjuster going from fully closed to fully open in only 1/2 a turn (as seen from inside the damper, not talking about the adjustment dial).
It's still a great product, provided your not going to track the car.
Quote:
great sticky by the way!! great info..
thanks
They are direct replacements. HOWEVER, their other things you need to consider. Originally Posted by donthaveityet
im not sure if i missed something but i just wanna make sure i do the right thing, if you purchas z spec springs are they any mods that you have to do for them to fit correctly or are they a direct replacment, im thinking of the either the tein s tech, or the eibach sportlines.. great sticky by the way!! great info..
thanks
1. Total drop amount.
2. Alignment after drop
3. G35 shocks are taller then 350Z shocks, keeping your oem shocks get to be a bad idea because of bump travel issues
350Z based springs drop the G35 more then they drop the Z. If run on a coupe, you'll get a additional .5", if run on a sedan, you'll get a addtional 1".
Tein S-tech 350z (fronts are progressive, rears are linear) .7”/.6” drop
Spring rates in LBS 386/402 (estimated front intial rate is 327lbs)
G35 coupe drop 1.2"/1.1"
G35 sedan drop 1.7"/1.6"
Eibach 350Z sportline progressive springs 1.2"/1.2" drop
F: 239/400 R: 257/435
G35 coupe drop 1.7"/1.5"
G35 sedan drop 2.2"/1.2"
Registered User
i have about 33k miles so im planning on keeping my same struts, i want something to get rid of that ugly gap, but since my budget is tight i don't want any neg issues. i suppose going with g spec springs would prolly be better off.. in your experience between the tein and eibach which will give a better drop, i don't mind a little bit of a rougher ride.. just want the nice aggressive look.
thanks g
thanks g
Registered User
Quote:
To explain about the Pss9/10 adjuster's. Normally, I will let everyone know to not run the setup on settings past 5. At full soft they deliver a ride and drive experience that is excellent, beyond reproach. As you turn them up, things start to decline and once you go past 5. basically taking you into deminishing returns.
When someone mention's track use as you did, it's a different story, picking another product makes more sense because of what is happening valving wise when you set them to settings past 5. Mid speed damping ballon's far too much along with the high speed damping. Yes this is a reslut of the adjuster going from fully closed to fully open in only 1/2 a turn (as seen from inside the damper, not talking about the adjustment dial).
It's still a great product, provided your not going to track the car.
Based on this, would the non adjustable Bilstiens be just as good on a street car? How would they compre to the PSS10s, 1 through ten, as far as setting?Originally Posted by Gsedan35
First thing I want to say in defence of Tein, until I see dyno plots for the 350Z Tein CST, Flex and MonoFlex, we cannot label the company as having adjustors that are either ineffective or only adjust one thing or another. I've seen Tein Flex dyno's for the Miata, and in reality, they are pretty darn good. I came really close last month to getting a flex seup for the Z on the dyno, the owner and I unfortunately couldn't meet as we'd hoped, oh well. To explain about the Pss9/10 adjuster's. Normally, I will let everyone know to not run the setup on settings past 5. At full soft they deliver a ride and drive experience that is excellent, beyond reproach. As you turn them up, things start to decline and once you go past 5. basically taking you into deminishing returns.
When someone mention's track use as you did, it's a different story, picking another product makes more sense because of what is happening valving wise when you set them to settings past 5. Mid speed damping ballon's far too much along with the high speed damping. Yes this is a reslut of the adjuster going from fully closed to fully open in only 1/2 a turn (as seen from inside the damper, not talking about the adjustment dial).
It's still a great product, provided your not going to track the car.
Registered User
Ok so I'm getting the picture here now 
Bilstein PSS9-10 are an excellent choice for non-track use, maybe a spirited driven street vehicle, so no longer an option.
Cusco Z2 are the cost effective choice for the car that will be tracked 3-4 days p/a.
Ohlins DFV are a good choice if you want the best of both worlds (street & track)at a premium price.
There's a huge cost difference between the last two but is there that huge a difference in performance,comfort & reliability?
Just out of curiosity, if I opt for a full coilover setup (non OEM rear) for whatever reason, what is good practice or preventative maintenence to support the rear top mounting points without welding? Would a simple Strut Tower Brace be sufficient?
Bilstein PSS9-10 are an excellent choice for non-track use, maybe a spirited driven street vehicle, so no longer an option.
Cusco Z2 are the cost effective choice for the car that will be tracked 3-4 days p/a.
Ohlins DFV are a good choice if you want the best of both worlds (street & track)at a premium price.
There's a huge cost difference between the last two but is there that huge a difference in performance,comfort & reliability?
Just out of curiosity, if I opt for a full coilover setup (non OEM rear) for whatever reason, what is good practice or preventative maintenence to support the rear top mounting points without welding? Would a simple Strut Tower Brace be sufficient?
Registered User
alfhasg35
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So how about this set up?
G35 Coupe Eibach pro kit springs with Tokico d-specs
so:
progressive springs 1.1”/1” drop on G35 coupe
Spring rates in LBS initial/final front 229/337 initial/final rear 274/463
or:
Tein H-tech 350z linear springs .3”/.2” drop on 350Z G35 drop will be higher
Spring rates in LBS 358/375
with the Tokio D-specs
I have an 05 6MT Coupe with spring rates of
314/427
I was thinking Koni but after reading all the threads on this forum, i have opted to go Tokico Dpec for the adjustability and i dont think i would use koni to its full potential.
I WANT my g to handle better period...!!! I will never track it but i feel it doesnt handle at all to my liking.. too much roll.. i had a tacoma on springs and kyb;s that would have outhandled my g handsdown... my old is300 was a better handling car as well..
i already have stillen sways set to med/med and a front stb...
Help.. !
Alf
G35 Coupe Eibach pro kit springs with Tokico d-specs
so:
progressive springs 1.1”/1” drop on G35 coupe
Spring rates in LBS initial/final front 229/337 initial/final rear 274/463
or:
Tein H-tech 350z linear springs .3”/.2” drop on 350Z G35 drop will be higher
Spring rates in LBS 358/375
with the Tokio D-specs
I have an 05 6MT Coupe with spring rates of
314/427
I was thinking Koni but after reading all the threads on this forum, i have opted to go Tokico Dpec for the adjustability and i dont think i would use koni to its full potential.
I WANT my g to handle better period...!!! I will never track it but i feel it doesnt handle at all to my liking.. too much roll.. i had a tacoma on springs and kyb;s that would have outhandled my g handsdown... my old is300 was a better handling car as well..
i already have stillen sways set to med/med and a front stb...
Help.. !
Alf
Registered User
Quote:
1. Total drop amount.
2. Alignment after drop
3. G35 shocks are taller then 350Z shocks, keeping your oem shocks get to be a bad idea because of bump travel issues
350Z based springs drop the G35 more then they drop the Z. If run on a coupe, you'll get a additional .5", if run on a sedan, you'll get a addtional 1".
Tein S-tech 350z (fronts are progressive, rears are linear) .7”/.6” drop
Spring rates in LBS 386/402 (estimated front intial rate is 327lbs)
G35 coupe drop 1.2"/1.1"
G35 sedan drop 1.7"/1.6"
Eibach 350Z sportline progressive springs 1.2"/1.2" drop
F: 239/400 R: 257/435
G35 coupe drop 1.7"/1.5"
G35 sedan drop 2.2"/1.2"
'Gsedan35, what are the drawbacks useing OEM 03/04 unrevised 350z Springs on the non sport/susp 03/04 G35 coupe if any! Other than getting a 1/2'' Drop all round, and are there any other issues while still retaining the STD shocks,and with that drop hight do you need any camber adjustments or wheel alignment, also are the STD spring rates OK with the 1/2'' drop?Originally Posted by Gsedan35
They are direct replacements. HOWEVER, their other things you need to consider. 1. Total drop amount.
2. Alignment after drop
3. G35 shocks are taller then 350Z shocks, keeping your oem shocks get to be a bad idea because of bump travel issues
350Z based springs drop the G35 more then they drop the Z. If run on a coupe, you'll get a additional .5", if run on a sedan, you'll get a addtional 1".
Tein S-tech 350z (fronts are progressive, rears are linear) .7”/.6” drop
Spring rates in LBS 386/402 (estimated front intial rate is 327lbs)
G35 coupe drop 1.2"/1.1"
G35 sedan drop 1.7"/1.6"
Eibach 350Z sportline progressive springs 1.2"/1.2" drop
F: 239/400 R: 257/435
G35 coupe drop 1.7"/1.5"
G35 sedan drop 2.2"/1.2"
Quote:
Bilstein Pss9 coiloverOriginally Posted by mikeinaustin
Gsedan35, if i may ask, what is your current suspension setup?
Resprung 560/500 (Swift springs and TomsMotorsports springs/adjustable seats
Revalved by FatcatMotorsports (who I cannot recommend, use Bilstein or www.StewartDevelopment.com)
Hotchkis front sway bar
350EVO rear sway bar
Cusco front camber arms
SPL rear camber arms and elongated toe cam bolts
I have no aftermarket braces or front/rear STB's for a reason, I do not believe they function as claimed.
Registered User
I'm seriously looking at PSS9/10 for my sedan. What's the minimum drop that should I expect? I'm guessing it would be somewhere in the 1.5"-2" range... But every place I look they claim it's 1" for both the Sedan and 350z which can't be true.
Along with that...how badly will I need a camber kit?
Hopefully Gsedan35 can chime in as he seems to be on this setup.
I'm currently on a revised 350z suspension and hotchkiss sways.
Along with that...how badly will I need a camber kit?
Hopefully Gsedan35 can chime in as he seems to be on this setup.
I'm currently on a revised 350z suspension and hotchkiss sways.
Registered User
Why do the Ohlins DFV have such high spring rates on the front compared to the rear? Doesn't seem to be common in most quality coilovers?
Registered User
Ok so im wanting to drop the car without using a camber kit. So i would like to drop it like 1 to 1.2 in the front and like .9 in the rear! I want to get as close to stock ride as i can but with that drop! I dont want it to be realy any softer than stock! Aslo i want a spring that the cars front looks lower than the rear. Some people have issues with after market springs the front looks higher! Can anyone give me the info and way to go!