Mobil 1 Oil users
#256
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 4,383
Likes: 27
From: pinellas county FLA, queens N.Y.
i might be wrong but as a daily driver ( mobil-1 synthetic 5-30) is just as good to use as any other synthetic oil .. as long as i change my oil between 3-4,000 miles ..
i dont street race .. spirited driving on occasion .. on a highway ...
i wont have any problems ...
but
if i were tracking the car /racing/boosted ... i should go with an amsoil or european castrol syntheic aka full synthetic .. because the engine would need or i would like to know i have that extra protection ..
is this what it all boils down to ??
am i correct ?
i dont street race .. spirited driving on occasion .. on a highway ...
i wont have any problems ...
but
if i were tracking the car /racing/boosted ... i should go with an amsoil or european castrol syntheic aka full synthetic .. because the engine would need or i would like to know i have that extra protection ..
is this what it all boils down to ??
am i correct ?
#257
That's about right. I use Penzoil Plat because it's a decent non-Group IV oil and I end up changing it at 3-4k anyway. ie.. the TBN seems to decline at that point but I'm changing it anyway.
If you are running a boosted motor, then you definately need the extra protection a true synthetic can offer.
I might try running the diesel Rotella or Mobil diesel oil. I'm just not sure about running the thicker 40w vs the recommended 30w. I know it's no problem actually running that weight but I don't know if it's at a slight performance detriment. I'd have to look at a viscosity rating or something. If it actually rates closer to a 30w, I'd be much more receptive to running it.
If you are running a boosted motor, then you definately need the extra protection a true synthetic can offer.
I might try running the diesel Rotella or Mobil diesel oil. I'm just not sure about running the thicker 40w vs the recommended 30w. I know it's no problem actually running that weight but I don't know if it's at a slight performance detriment. I'd have to look at a viscosity rating or something. If it actually rates closer to a 30w, I'd be much more receptive to running it.
#258
Again. As compared to what? That is the question. Although sample sizes for this particular engine are small, sample sizes for each particular oil is quite large. I take it you haven't visited BITOG forum correct? Even on that forum, I don't think anyone mentions they are adhering to the strict scientific method of testing.......
Jeff92se- you're obviously a bright guy, so why would present an argument that may in itself be valid, but does not address the issues HighTechOilCo and I are referring to (Ignoratio elenchi- also known as irrelevant conclusion). Read my comments carefully-- what I'm only stating is that one can't make the claims made by many on this thread and others based on the evidence presented: that's it, period! The conclusions might be correct, but you know as well as I do that we can't just spit out global information w/o referencing a credible source.
I'm familiar with the BITOG forum and visit often (and this is a fairly credible source), but actually have gotten most of my info from this PDF, which is written by a lubrication specialist and SAE certified motor oil engineer:
http://www.motor-oil-engineers.com/M...eers%20PDF.pdf
Not exactly a good novel for the evening, but pretty solid material- 120 pages of pure science on lubrication and oil engineering. G'nite
#259
Jeff92se- you're obviously a bright guy, so why would present an argument that may in itself be valid, but does not address the issues HighTechOilCo and I are referring to (Ignoratio elenchi- also known as irrelevant conclusion). Read my comments carefully-- what I'm only stating is that one can't make the claims made by many on this thread and others based on the evidence presented: that's it, period! The conclusions might be correct, but you know as well as I do that we can't just spit out global information w/o referencing a credible source.
I'm familiar with the BITOG forum and visit often (and this is a fairly credible source), but actually have gotten most of my info from this PDF, which is written by a lubrication specialist and SAE certified motor oil engineer:
http://www.motor-oil-engineers.com/M...eers%20PDF.pdf
Not exactly a good novel for the evening, but pretty solid material- 120 pages of pure science on lubrication and oil engineering. G'nite
I'm familiar with the BITOG forum and visit often (and this is a fairly credible source), but actually have gotten most of my info from this PDF, which is written by a lubrication specialist and SAE certified motor oil engineer:
http://www.motor-oil-engineers.com/M...eers%20PDF.pdf
Not exactly a good novel for the evening, but pretty solid material- 120 pages of pure science on lubrication and oil engineering. G'nite
I haven't said or even disagreed with his/your opinion. I was only trying to qualify some of the member's conclusions regarding their oil decisions. Again, if we have to adhere to your logic, then you both cannot accurately suggest one oil over another for our specific application. Yet, hitech has done just that.
Looks like a great read though. It should be part of a FAQ (if the info I browsed is as good as it looks). He is partial to Amsoil. To the point of capitializing it's name and none of the others.
Did you happen to read his definition of Group III oils and how it can technicall be called a synthetic but isn't by the traditional Group IV or V sense? See how that applies to the email I received from Mobil 1?
#263
i changed it this weekend and maaaaaan! I think the only hard part(time consuming) was taking off the plastic guard! thanks for your help!!
#264
wow
What a thread!
When is the last time anyone has heard of an oil related engine failure?
Use the proper weight oil and filter. Change your oil every 3 to 6 thousand miles and you will be fine. We are not talking about race cars with $40,000 engines spinning at 9000 rpm's. Brand simply dose NOT make a difference.
When is the last time anyone has heard of an oil related engine failure?
Use the proper weight oil and filter. Change your oil every 3 to 6 thousand miles and you will be fine. We are not talking about race cars with $40,000 engines spinning at 9000 rpm's. Brand simply dose NOT make a difference.
#266
My point is too many people focus on brand. The fact is it just does not matter.
#267
My 3 ancient Volvos combined have >1.25 million miles w/o engine, tranny or electrical problems/repairs. All ran on dyno. It's highly unlikely that G's on average will exceed 300K, especially if pushed the way most are. But overall, I think you're right, it's less the fluid and more the comprehensive care of the car that determines it's life!
#269
#270
Mobil 1 is a phosphodiester bonded, polymer based, synthetic lubricant with anagrelide, isosorbide momonitrate and hydroxychloroquine additives not found in other synthetics.
Jeff, Jeff, Jeff.... it doesn't really matter what I think about Mobil 1. The context of our (the last couple of commentators) collective comments was that the most important variable is not your oil alone, it's how you maintain and use your car overall.
Jeff, Jeff, Jeff.... it doesn't really matter what I think about Mobil 1. The context of our (the last couple of commentators) collective comments was that the most important variable is not your oil alone, it's how you maintain and use your car overall.