That's my plan too, except I'll stick with body color instead of the anodized color.
& get an Infiniti emblem to replace the hamburger.

Here's a painted Z cover (on a Z)
it leaves the plenum exposed for better cooling

 

I have a carbon fiber cover so I don’t have to worry about the "hamburger" (never heard that before, but good description). Are you going to lay resin in the hamburger indentation prior to Infiniti logo? It would look a little awkward if not.

BTW – not sure if I’m going with the smoked anodized paint now… just got car back from having exterior door trim & handles painted that way (plan was powder coat – long story) but they cleared over it and lost the anodized look… Still in the air about what color for the cover, but I don’t want the carbon fiber look.

Making unique changes to the look of my G has become a huge pain in my @SS!!!!!!!

 

Oops I guess we kind of jacked the thread
(could start another one on covers)

.....back to Tony

 

Forgot to mention, I plan to cut the front down lip of Z (1/2 cover)... you mentioned plenum cooling (which is the only reason I'm using it) - but the front portion of the plenum does get considerably hot with the 1/2 cover (140+). Center and rear corners are obviously cool... with Tony's thermal kit mine is in the mid 90's center and usually 110-115 around the rear corners. This is an avg w/ ambient temp of 75-90.

Bottom line, if you want a cover and care about plenum temp, use ˝ cover (aka Z cover) – if you REALLY care about plenum temp, cut the down lip (in front) for more air flow across plenum. Another idea (I considered but probably won’t do) is stock or CF G full cover and cut the center out (around plenum). I was thinking of doing it but wasn't sure how it would look… low and behold a few days later I saw David’s (jdmv35) – it looks pretty good (see pic). He did it for after market plenum clearance (good idea for 1/2" spacer too) but it would work for my intention of plenum cooling too. The plenum gets damn hot with that full cover on!

DaveO is running a stock Z cover with cut front down lip - I'm not sure if he has done temp comparos, but I know he's happy with the results. Theoretically it makes sense to do.

 

Dremel a "G" Cover, and it looks just fine IMO.

Lou

 

Looks great! Nice job. If I kept the G cover, I'd just cut the center though - I like the sides covering all the way back. Since I bought a carbon fiber 1/2 cover I'll work with it for now.

I really like what you did with yours though!

 

Tony;
I see the thermal upgrade is now up on the website for $70.

Are you still planning a GB for this?
Price$_________?

 

Tony;
Just looked at the new manual....
Can you clarify what appears to be conflicting information?

- to me, it does not appear to be necessary to remove the TB
unless I'm missing something.

pg 3 bottom;
pg 4 top

 

Thank you for catching that! I will correct it now.
Feedback is always very helpfull and appreciated!

YOU DO NOT NEED TO UNBOLT THE THROTTLEBODY FROM THE PLENUM.

You could unbolt it if you want to but it would only be more work and it isn't really necessary. You can do everything you need by simply tilting the plenum on its side as shown in the picture.

The GB for the Motordyne Iso Thermal upgrade will be $50.
The spacer kits will be $50 off.

Thanks again!
Tony

EDIT:
I also have the arctic weather edition that will be comming out very soon too. I may hold off on doing the GB for a little longer so the polarized copper thermal bypass can be included. It will allow you utilize the fullextent of Iso Thermal upgrade no matter how cold it is outside. The throttle body will always be heated and the plenum assembly will remain cold.

So if you are driving in sub zero weather, engine performance will literally be the equivalent to driving on 1 psi of boost (due to increased atmospheric density). The plenum will be cold like you put ice on it but the throttle body will remain heated.

 

Tony,

At some point before the GB on the thermal kit upgrade will you have some performance data available? For those of use that already have the 3/8" spacer installed, will there be a measurable performance increase?

Thanks,

max

 

I'm with him, since I have the 3/8" spacer too.

 

Man, you really have my attention now!

 

I'll get it dynod but it may not be for some time. I have a ton of other dynos and time consuming things in que. But when I do, it will be done in a manner that best simulates (or approximates) real world conditions.

Running a dyno with the hood open and a fan blowing on it for several minutes before the pull provides real results, but not real world test conditions. Ideally, it would be best to find out what the car does when it is heat soaked with with typical plenum and engine compartment temperatures.

I may be able to do a good approximation by creating similar pre/post "plenum temperature" test conditions.

The car could be taken right off a long freeway cruise, quickly slamed on the dyno with the hood opened just seconds before doing the dyno pulls. That would provide near realworld heat soaked test conditions. After doing three baseline pulls, install a MIT kit and repull 3 more runs. (I can already tell you there will be some amount of gain)

Of course all other temperatures and variables would have to remain constant. Ambient air intake temperature, engine coolant temperature, oil temperature, transmission temperature, ECU and every other variable within reason.

Although I've done many, many research dynos there is always room for more. The only problem is my back is killing me from hours and hours of bolt turning over the engine while on the dyno. And I have so many more dynos to do for so many other cool projects. I love it!

I'm gonna have to get a dyno of my own just to keep up with the research requirements.

 

Thanks Tony.
We really appreciate the effort you're putting into R&D for our Gs.

 

Sorry if I made it sound like a Iso Thermal upgrade adds the equivalent density gain of 1 psi of boost. It doesn't. Sub Zero atmospheric temperatures do that. The polarized copper thermal bypass will allow you to take full advantage of the cold air and the MIT upgrade. The cooler running (Iso Thermal) plenum won't be blazing hot and hence won't be heating up the air flowing thru it.

The engine regulates itself to about ~195 deg F coolant temperature. (And a normal plenum runs at temperatures only slightly below that.) With Sub Zero air flowing through an un insulated plenum, the heat flux will be very high and the cold air will absorb/gain a lot of heat.
So cold weather areas have more to gain from a MIT upgrade with polarized copper throttle body heater because you won't have hot engine coolant heating up the entire plenum.

So in a way, cold weather areas are naturally boosted.

Here in California, Sub Zero temperatures are extremely rare so a coolant control valve is all that is needed.