What happened to the Motordyne Engineering 3/8" plenum spacers?
#106
09-07-2005, 12:51 PM
Originally Posted by Hydrazine
Sorry if I made it sound like a Iso Thermal upgrade adds the equivalent density gain of 1 psi of boost. It doesn't. Sub Zero atmospheric temperatures do that. The polarized copper thermal bypass will allow you to take full advantage of the cold air and the MIT upgrade. The cooler running (Iso Thermal) plenum won't be blazing hot and hence won't be heating up the air flowing thru it.
The engine regulates itself to about ~195 deg F coolant temperature. (And a normal plenum runs at temperatures only slightly below that.) With Sub Zero air flowing through an un insulated plenum, the heat flux will be very high and the cold air will absorb/gain a lot of heat.
So cold weather areas have more to gain from a MIT upgrade with polarized copper throttle body heater because you won't have hot engine coolant heating up the entire plenum.
So in a way, cold weather areas are naturally boosted.
Here in California, Sub Zero temperatures are extremely rare so a coolant control valve is all that is needed.
The engine regulates itself to about ~195 deg F coolant temperature. (And a normal plenum runs at temperatures only slightly below that.) With Sub Zero air flowing through an un insulated plenum, the heat flux will be very high and the cold air will absorb/gain a lot of heat.
So cold weather areas have more to gain from a MIT upgrade with polarized copper throttle body heater because you won't have hot engine coolant heating up the entire plenum.
So in a way, cold weather areas are naturally boosted.
Here in California, Sub Zero temperatures are extremely rare so a coolant control valve is all that is needed.
I just can't wait
#107
09-07-2005, 01:50 PM
Originally Posted by Hydrazine
I'll get it dynod but it may not be for some time. I have a ton of other dynos and time consuming things in que. But when I do, it will be done in a manner that best simulates (or approximates) real world conditions.
Running a dyno with the hood open and a fan blowing on it for several minutes before the pull provides real results, but not real world test conditions. Ideally, it would be best to find out what the car does when it is heat soaked with with typical plenum and engine compartment temperatures.
I may be able to do a good approximation by creating similar pre/post "plenum temperature" test conditions.
The car could be taken right off a long freeway cruise, quickly slamed on the dyno with the hood opened just seconds before doing the dyno pulls. That would provide near realworld heat soaked test conditions. After doing three baseline pulls, install a MIT kit and repull 3 more runs. (I can already tell you there will be some amount of gain)
Of course all other temperatures and variables would have to remain constant. Ambient air intake temperature, engine coolant temperature, oil temperature, transmission temperature, ECU and every other variable within reason.
Although I've done many, many research dynos there is always room for more. The only problem is my back is killing me from hours and hours of bolt turning over the engine while on the dyno.
And I have so many more dynos to do for so many other cool projects. 
I love it!
I'm gonna have to get a dyno of my own just to keep up with the research requirements.
Running a dyno with the hood open and a fan blowing on it for several minutes before the pull provides real results, but not real world test conditions. Ideally, it would be best to find out what the car does when it is heat soaked with with typical plenum and engine compartment temperatures.
I may be able to do a good approximation by creating similar pre/post "plenum temperature" test conditions.
The car could be taken right off a long freeway cruise, quickly slamed on the dyno with the hood opened just seconds before doing the dyno pulls. That would provide near realworld heat soaked test conditions. After doing three baseline pulls, install a MIT kit and repull 3 more runs. (I can already tell you there will be some amount of gain)
Of course all other temperatures and variables would have to remain constant. Ambient air intake temperature, engine coolant temperature, oil temperature, transmission temperature, ECU and every other variable within reason.
Although I've done many, many research dynos there is always room for more. The only problem is my back is killing me from hours and hours of bolt turning over the engine while on the dyno.
And I have so many more dynos to do for so many other cool projects. I love it!I'm gonna have to get a dyno of my own just to keep up with the research requirements.
Cato,robbdog,and myself all live in the houston area so have little to no winter temps to deal with....but we do have heat for a majority of the year so this mod is very interesting.
max
#108
09-08-2005, 01:50 PM
Originally Posted by maxpower
I understand the problems with trying to get a dyno on a hot vs isothermal cooled air G, I will settle for feedback from some of the beta testers on 'butt dyno' with and without
Cato,robbdog,and myself all live in the houston area so have little to no winter temps to deal with....but we do have heat for a majority of the year so this mod is very interesting.
max
Cato,robbdog,and myself all live in the houston area so have little to no winter temps to deal with....but we do have heat for a majority of the year so this mod is very interesting.
max
#109
09-08-2005, 03:49 PM
Originally Posted by maxpower
I understand the problems with trying to get a dyno on a hot vs isothermal cooled air G, I will settle for feedback from some of the beta testers on 'butt dyno' with and without
max
max
As part of Motordyne's research I, along with OCG35, was also a beta tester for the Motordyne Engineering Iso Thermal Spacer System. My results from testing in 100+F weather indicated that plemum temperatures were much lower (up to 80F) than our underhood heat soak test numbers were last summer. As for the ol' dyno-butt, the car continues to surprise me on these hot afternoons, responding more like it's a cool morning.
#110
09-08-2005, 04:50 PM
Originally Posted by OCG35
Looks great! Nice job. If I kept the G cover, I'd just cut the center though - I like the sides covering all the way back. Since I bought a carbon fiber 1/2 cover I'll work with it for now.
I really like what you did with yours though!
I really like what you did with yours though!
What about just "perforating" it with multiple holes - easy and probably almost as effective???
#111
09-08-2005, 04:57 PM
Thermo Spacer
I just got the thermo spacer with my new plenum order from ME.
It's a piece with 6 large holes that goes under lower plenum,
no instructions. May be Tony will have instructions soon?
I don't think I'll install it. So if anyone want this new thermo spacer
for $45 shipped. PM me.
It's a piece with 6 large holes that goes under lower plenum,
no instructions. May be Tony will have instructions soon?
I don't think I'll install it. So if anyone want this new thermo spacer
for $45 shipped. PM me.
#112
09-08-2005, 05:01 PM
Originally Posted by ma_sha1
I just got the thermo spacer with my new plenum order from ME.
It's a piece with 6 large holes that goes under lower plenum,
no instructions. May be Tony will have instructions soon?
I don't think I'll install it. So if anyone want this new thermo spacer
for $45 shipped. PM me.
It's a piece with 6 large holes that goes under lower plenum,
no instructions. May be Tony will have instructions soon?
I don't think I'll install it. So if anyone want this new thermo spacer
for $45 shipped. PM me.
#113
09-08-2005, 07:36 PM
Originally Posted by rcdash
What about just "perforating" it with multiple holes - easy and probably almost as effective???
Thanks for the idea though.
#114
09-08-2005, 09:47 PM
Originally Posted by OCG35
Perforating the G or Z cover?... If you mean G, that might be an idea with stock plenum but I have the M.E. 1/2" spacer so clearance is an issue as well as plenum cooling. The cover will fit with the spacer, just kinda tight.
Thanks for the idea though.
Thanks for the idea though.
)
#115
09-09-2005, 08:26 PM
Originally Posted by Hydrazine
Thank you for catching that! I will correct it now.
Feedback is always very helpfull and appreciated!
YOU DO NOT NEED TO UNBOLT THE THROTTLEBODY FROM THE PLENUM.
You could unbolt it if you want to but it would only be more work and it isn't really necessary. You can do everything you need by simply tilting the plenum on its side as shown in the picture.
The GB for the Motordyne Iso Thermal upgrade will be $50.
The spacer kits will be $50 off.
Thanks again!
Tony
EDIT:
I also have the arctic weather edition that will be comming out very soon too. I may hold off on doing the GB for a little longer so the polarized copper thermal bypass can be included. It will allow you utilize the fullextent of Iso Thermal upgrade no matter how cold it is outside. The throttle body will always be heated and the plenum assembly will remain cold.
So if you are driving in sub zero weather, engine performance will literally be the equivalent to driving on 1 psi of boost (due to increased atmospheric density). The plenum will be cold like you put ice on it but the throttle body will remain heated.
Feedback is always very helpfull and appreciated!
YOU DO NOT NEED TO UNBOLT THE THROTTLEBODY FROM THE PLENUM.
You could unbolt it if you want to but it would only be more work and it isn't really necessary. You can do everything you need by simply tilting the plenum on its side as shown in the picture.
The GB for the Motordyne Iso Thermal upgrade will be $50.
The spacer kits will be $50 off.
Thanks again!
Tony
EDIT:
I also have the arctic weather edition that will be comming out very soon too. I may hold off on doing the GB for a little longer so the polarized copper thermal bypass can be included. It will allow you utilize the fullextent of Iso Thermal upgrade no matter how cold it is outside. The throttle body will always be heated and the plenum assembly will remain cold.
So if you are driving in sub zero weather, engine performance will literally be the equivalent to driving on 1 psi of boost (due to increased atmospheric density). The plenum will be cold like you put ice on it but the throttle body will remain heated.
I should have waited just a bit longer to order so your new polarized copper thermal bypass would take care of the seasonal "arctic conditions" we have around here. I was planning my install tomorrow with the manual valve. When do you expect to have the new set up??
Thanks
Deane
#116
09-10-2005, 01:09 AM
Guest
Posts: n/a
This might be really dumb... but this talk about a thermal bypass - since heat is the killer (in Houston), what about a cold-air feed from the AC to chill the throttle body, or some other components? I know, it might be pulling more HP to cool it than turning it off, but when it's a 100F outside temp, and since the AC is cranking anyway... what the heck!
Any thoughts?
Any thoughts?
#117
09-10-2005, 02:13 AM
Originally Posted by RBull
Hey Tony,
I should have waited just a bit longer to order so your new polarized copper thermal bypass would take care of the seasonal "arctic conditions" we have around here. I was planning my install tomorrow with the manual valve. When do you expect to have the new set up??
Thanks
Deane
I should have waited just a bit longer to order so your new polarized copper thermal bypass would take care of the seasonal "arctic conditions" we have around here. I was planning my install tomorrow with the manual valve. When do you expect to have the new set up??
Thanks
Deane
Tony
#118
09-10-2005, 09:38 AM
Originally Posted by RBull
Hey Tony,
I should have waited just a bit longer to order so your new polarized copper thermal bypass would take care of the seasonal "arctic conditions" we have around here. I was planning my install tomorrow with the manual valve. When do you expect to have the new set up??
Thanks
Deane
I should have waited just a bit longer to order so your new polarized copper thermal bypass would take care of the seasonal "arctic conditions" we have around here. I was planning my install tomorrow with the manual valve. When do you expect to have the new set up??
Thanks
Deane
Hey Deane, got yours already.....
Couldn't wait for the GB eh
#119
09-10-2005, 07:31 PM
Originally Posted by RBull
Hey Tony,
I should have waited just a bit longer to order so your new polarized copper thermal bypass would take care of the seasonal "arctic conditions" we have around here. I was planning my install tomorrow with the manual valve. When do you expect to have the new set up??
Thanks
Deane
I should have waited just a bit longer to order so your new polarized copper thermal bypass would take care of the seasonal "arctic conditions" we have around here. I was planning my install tomorrow with the manual valve. When do you expect to have the new set up??
Thanks
Deane
This ME system is more stealth and promises decent gains even with the 5/16" spacer.(which goes almost un-noticed).
I'd like to hear more about the new polarized copper thermal bypass. That sounds very trick too.
G/L with the install today, it looks fairly straightforward. I look forward to hearing how well that goes, and the results.
Colin.
#120
09-10-2005, 07:33 PM
Originally Posted by inTgr8r
LOL
Hey Deane, got yours already.....
Couldn't wait for the GB eh
Hey Deane, got yours already.....
Couldn't wait for the GB eh
I decided to go for it so have installed the ISO thermal set up. I like the sounds of that throttle body heater so there is no messing with the valve and you get the full benefit of a cooler plenum.