The engine cover fits fine after installation. I believe that it's only a problem on the generic kits and both InsaneAmine's and mine have custom lengths. The 7th wire is fairly easy to install if you can get under the car (please with safety) and can see the tranny on the passenger side. No, you don't have to remove the lower shroud. An option that InsaneAmine piloted is the use of a shorter ground wire that attaches from above to the tranny filler tube, and recently I've offered this as well.

Hope this helps.

Gord

<font color=green>GG</font color=green>

 

KongzGx:

<font color=blue>I've heard that this thread has become one of THE resources for information on Hyper-Ground (Earthing) Kits on the internet! Pretty cool if true, and I heard even non-G owners are browsing!

<font color=green>GG</font color=green>

 

I can attest that Mr. Szita (InSaNeAmine1)'s grounding kit is top notch. I just ordered a 6-wire kit for my 6MT coupe and the quality is top notch! From ordering to delivery, it only took 3 days! Anyway, he's very professional and I'm extremely happy with the 6-wire kit that he has sent me.

6MT Coupe black/graphite premium aero

 

I just installed the 5-wire set for my 6MT, which I then proceeded to wash my very dirty coupe. By the time that was done it was 9 at night. So I will add another post with the "performance" aspect of these cables later but wanted to give some insight on the installation...

** QUALITY OF KIT **
1) the kit itself is well done overall (parts supplied etc.)
2) the smoke cables i ordered are very well made
3) gord deserves major credit (and perhaps a higher profit margin ;P)

** INSTALLATION TIPS**
1) fairly easy install overall (i would think even for a novice)
2) it may not be necessary to remove the hood sensor but depends on your tools and how big your hands are (i did mind with out removing the sensor )
3) if you do remove the hood sensor, i would suggest removing the two bolts in parallel since the rocking motion of removing the hood sensor will scratch the paint
4) on that same note, the connection to the actual car itself by the hood sensor should be attached in the following manner to prevent the pre-existing ground cable from being pinched off
a) grounding cable connection
b) ground connection for electrical system
c) bolt
5)) passing the grounding cable through the rubber grommet caused me some consternation, so i suggest the following
a) use a awl or something sharp to establish a small hole
b) then use needle nose pliers to "stretch" the hole enough to pass the ground cable through
c) then pass the crimp end initially with the aid of some lubrication (your saliva works pretty damn well)
d) be careful of damaging the thin metal wall of the battery compartment, it could be easy to damage
6) do not over-tighten the bolts, the threads (not all, but most) are made out of aluminum so you can easily damage them (or break the bolts themselves)
7) it was necessary to modify the end of the grounding cable (#5) to the top of the manifold since the bolt is slightly recessed
8) for negative battery connection, i flattened the tooth of the clamp and attached the cable in the following manner
a) one side of clamp (with the square head of the bolt)
b) the grounding cable
c) other side of clamp
d) attach to battery

** AREAS OF CONCERN **
1) how heat resistant are the plastic coatings of the cables and the heat shrink tubing between the cable and crimps since the top of the engine gets quite hot
2) as mentioned above, the #5 cable end at the back of the manifold needed some bending to account for the "indent" of the bolt hole itself
3) same with the crimp connection for the batter terminal, in fact i removed the "finger" contact between the inner edge of the clamp

Please add any additional comments or questions on this board so we can all share in the process? I will try to take pictures of the battery terminal and at the back of the manifold (damn, i need to remove the engine cover again )

Thanks again Gord!

Eugene

G35C - 6MT - DG/G - Premium

 

Thanks of the post eykim! I'm in process of obtaining gordgee's
7 wire kit. Tips like your's make life worth living. I'll add more if
I discover during my install.

Cato

God I love this car!

 

Great feedback Eykim. Keep us posted re your driving impressions.

Thanks for the post re tips. I agree with them, but I wouldn't include them in the install instructions as it becomes too 'unwieldy', making the instructions too long and perhaps more detailed than they need to be. Yours are very useful however for those that may have less experience with this sort of thing, so again, this becomes a good reference post.

The cable jackets on the SCOSCHE cable are supposedly heat resistant enough for this application according to the company, and as far as the shrink tube, it takes a lot of heat just to shrink the stuff, so I believe they should withstand the temps under hood. I also use sealant on every lug terminal/cable end prior to applying heat shrink to ensure minimal oxidation effects on the wire itself.

Anyway, keep the comments coming!

<font color=green>GG</font color=green>

 

Gordgee.....can you hook me up for a good price on the ground kit?....charge my insurance...procedure code 90801. And then next week....90806. hahaha (just a little laugh for the therapist.)

 

Thanksfor sending 7 wires to Raleigh last weekend. I've got 5 in and GD. It's pretty amazing what less than 100 bucks can do. Thanks for the help on getting me closer to 280hp in the sedan.

lighterthancoupebaby

 

I was running low on my SCOSCHE cable in red and my source was trying to sell me STINGER brand at about the same price, as he was also running low. I did some quick research, and discovered that the high temperature rating of the STINGER brand cable is only 140 degrees F, vs. 221 F for the SCOSCHE cable (oil resistance 140)! It does go lower though, at -40 F as opposed to -22 F. He told me that there is a lot of variance between brands, and the suitability depends on the application. So those of you looking at making your own cables, be aware that some brands of wire may not hold up well in the long run. One of the guys on my350z.com has complained that his clear cables have turned brown after only a few months. I'm hoping his was a different brand, not SCOSCHE.[img]/w3timages/icons/blush.gif[/img]

<font color=green>GG</font color=green>

 

Alright, i actually bought the Hyperground by Sun Automobile (5 wire kit). I finished installing it and i did notice an improvement on acceleration and shifting. Basically alot smoother and quicker response. Didnt notice any power difference but then again, i cant feel 3-5hp anyway.

Jerome
2003.5 G35 Coupe aka Skyline 350GT [img]/w3timages/icons/tongue.gif[/img]

 

Just for the record, are the people noticing differences from attaching the grounding kit certain that it's not just the act of disconnecting the battery during installation that's causing them? I didn't notice smoother idling after just disconnecting my battery, but shifting and responsiveness benefits were definitely very noticeable.

Not trying to be a skeptic. This thought occured to me when I began to install my kit this weekend but had to stop due to rain after only getting my new negative terminal on. Then I noticed the usual battery disconnect effects and put 2 and 2 together. Maybe someone who's had one on for a month or so could try taking it off (while disconnecting the battery) and seeing what changes you notice.

-Jack
Obsidian/graphite '03 Coupe premium nav

 

I have had my red seven wire grounding kit installed on my coupe for over a week now and I have the following observations:

- the quality of the kit is impressive and adds to the look of the engine compartment.
- the installation of the kit was pretty easy and straight forward
- the engine seems smoother at 4000 rpm and up
- the transmission seems more responsive and the shifts seem more positive

This was a great upgrade for $100 cdn. Thanks Gord...

 

what should the wire lengths be for the 6th and 7th wires?

'03 G35 Sedan: ivory/aero body/sport/sunroof
Warning: Objects in mirror are FASTER than they appear

 

JDMan:

I thought about that myself. Although it's usually good practice to D/C your battery while doing any repairs or mods of an electrical nature, I specifically wrote my step-by-step instructions to eliminate that step. I talked with a tech who said that since the mod is to the negative side of the battery, it can be considered safe since a ground pathway already exists and there is no interruption.

KonzGx:

#6 is 29" and #7 is 27"


<font color=green>GG</font color=green>