Buying a turbo car won't fix the problem. The thing about a decent factory platform is you'll always want more knowing what it's capable of. Trust me.


Ian have they started digging into the car yet? I'm curious to see what actually happened, as I'm sure many of us are.

 

+1.

 

It will if it has warranty... and I don't think I'll be doing any big modding to the car I want, which is the beauty of it... comes perfect from the factory (of course the investment will be substantially more than what a boosted G35 would cost though).

 

This is not true. There are thousands of people out there boosting the crap out of stock blocks without issue.

 

Yeah- +1^

We've run into some uncharted territory with what happened to mine. I think they started to tear it down today but I haven't heard anything yet. I think there is general agreement from what I've heard that 10psi was too much- I know some of you are dubious but I do think there is some plausible reasons to suspect that AT being somewhat responsible for the miscalculations. Regardless- if I ran into someone who was looking at putting a 700 kit in an otherwise stock AT I'd probably point them at the 530. It would minimize risk/ and no- not disrespecting Anyone's opinions but a consistent message I've heard is that the 700 was too big for this car.

Frankly- I don't care. Some Chicks put 15k into fake *****. I want a monster. Im getting a monster. But Andrew has a point too. I go spend 60k on a souped up BMW with performance that comes standard- it saves some headaches and when it busts you have someone to bring it to.

A friend of mine recently got a ride in a soupy BMW and raved about how powerful it was. And, it'll be just as powerful as the next one on the lot. And the next. I wanted to make this MY car- different than all the rest (but exactly like dustins hahaha). If you want your car to be just like the next persons and the exhilaration of boost and performance, the g obviously isn't the platform of choice. It's heavy, kind of slushy and creaky in its stock form. Orange dash lighting, archaic stereo appearance-

But WHAT a beautiful car to customize.

Andrew, I went about this whole thing in a really backwards fashion. Sasha has the solution to all the issues I've had with this project and I was a month from choosing his turbo kit over the one I ended up with. Timing- I have every confidence that his kit is exactly what I needed. the 700 is more than I needed, and now I'm paying the price. But I was prepared for that because they don't call it gambling because you always win.

That is, however, why I wanted to start this thread. This is the grim reality of boost and the inevitable addiction as experienced by a layman.

 

A/T aside.

I just feel the urge to share a thought here. With the 530bb kit, the turbos are smaller. Smaller turbos will spool quicker, and in turn produce more boost at lower RPM. Boost in low RPM's means gobs of torque; torque at low RPM's kills the VQ. In other words, the 700's would be better for the VQ because of less torque in the lower RPM range. This is how you can tell a safe tune from an aggressive tune. The torque curve should rise, but should not be agressive. IMO timing is everything, peak torque the timing should be in the low double digits (about 12* for me) , with a nice safe 11.5:1 a/f ratio.

I look forward to the findings once the block is torn down.

 

Sounds like that built tran came from sgp- for those of you who haven't heard all about those arcshloches they were in the business of ripping people off by building transmissions that in what I'm told are many documented instances were found to be bone stock. Yeah - that kind of thing. There is a 113 page thread about it on 350z.

So I think I'll stay away from thAt one.

I'll keep you posted on the block teardown.

 

Okay, well sorry for the double post...

Had an issue with these plugs and I'm wondering what I should do about it- maybe I'm stuffed either way but it still is an issue that warrants some attention.

These plugs weren't the plugs that should be with this car in its stock form- and the gap was WAY off. There was signs of detonation on the one plug which I'm pretty sure could have been gradually wearing down whatever part failed during my latest experience.

I've had the car for a year and a half, of course- so I don't expect anyone to do anything about it now... but isn't that something they should have looked at at the stealership when they took it in? Or is that something I should have done as a responsible owner?

On a side note- to avoid something like this happening to you other guys... may I recommend that you be aware that things are not always what they seem and though you may only be at <50k you get them checked?

 

Changing plugs when switching over from N/A to turbo is a must, every shop should know that. If they don't..RUN. You always go with a colder plug, gapped between .025 and .030 when doing the N/A to FI switch. You need 6 x NGK Iridium Part #: LFR6AIX-11 gaped at .030 and there should not be any issue. Don't get the NGK Platinum plugs, platinum stores heat and can cause detonation.

The tuner should have noticed something wrong after the first pull. Detonation can be heard even without a knock sensor. This should have made him shut it down, and check plugs if all other parameters were in check (not lean and not much timing).

 

Just to be clear on this- they (Intec) didn't see the detonation on any of the plugs that they put in before they did the dyno pulls... which were Greddy plugs (9). The detonation was on the plugs we pulled out beforehand- which I think have been in the car since I bought it. I think the gap on the plugs that were already in there was > .040- I mean it was huge. In fact, I recall one of the first things they were saying at the shop while we were sorting out the work for the day was that they were going to check the plugs while they did the injectors. Good thing they did I guess... that way I don't have to run


I doubt Cam at LSI would have had anything to do the plugs- and they're the only other shop that had anything to do with the car. I'm assuming that Progressive probably should have looked at the plugs- so I'll have to have that discussion with them and see where we end up at that point.

Frick.

 

reread and found my answer

 

Okay then... time for an update: Haven't started tearing down the engine yet, but we are upgrading the bottom end with the exception of the crank. Apparently its good to 700hp and save for some damage from the extended detonation that we're assuming has been an issue since I bought the car- figure the rod / bearing would bend before the crank would give so we're confident it's okay.

Parts on the current list to acquire after much back and forth when the initial shock cleared. Those of you who know what these parts cost will understand why I had the wind knocked out of my sails for a few moments. I've recovered and am back to being excited.

Cosworth Pistons
Brian Crower forged rods
Cosworth Head Gasket
ARP L19 Head and main studs
Cosworth main / rod bearings
some shop time
Apexci AVC-R boost controller
CJ mostorsports twin pump assembly (still debating that)
800cc (replacing new 600cc) injectors (again, still debating either doing it now or next step)
All fluids / filters
I've also got some less impressive upgrades coming, including NRG hood dampeners, mizu slim fans (2x14")

And another couple hours on the dyno to get the tune done. The big money is in the IPT Jatco auto tranny.



I've really had to get comfortable with the fact that if I keep the transmission stock I'm going to be asking for trouble that will cost even MORE to fix up here than when it's already down there. Brakes remains an issue but for the driving I'm expecting to do the stocks will probably have to wait until I can put a bit more money together... fortunately there is some overtime coming up!

So- that's where we're at now.

If this thread is a lesson in FI to anyone: The package Sasha has is probably the best fitted, powered option to take and avoid all of this headache. It's still fun, learning everything I'm learning, but I'm not going to lie it stings quite a bit too. I remember Gord saying in one of his earlier threads: This is where it starts... then you want to do this, and then do this... and then when you do that you might as well spend the additional 1500 and do this... and then that.. and and and...

Argh!

So- that's my weekend update!

 

^^ I drove past there earlier and your car was outside, as i was leaving it was in the shop. Hope they get an answer for u soon. All that stuff sound like a plan. Build a soli bottom end. and as for the NRG hood dampeners, love mine. and i told u the mizu slim fans were a good idea . keep me posted.

 

Instead of going through all that stuff, purchasing parts separate and having it built I would go with this:

http://my350z.com/forum/engine/51070...ur-engine.html

For $2765 + core (you can send yours in) you get a complete built short block capable of 700hp. These guys have the sleeved VQ figured out, so I know that these blocks are good as well. The guy that does the assembly used to build NASCAR engines, so you are in good hands.

DW has a new 300lph fuel pump, I would go with that unless you plan on going past 600whp. With a fuel return system the 600cc injectors are also good for about 600hp. The money you save in all this, you can get a port and polish service done on your heads. Keep in mind that your power on our 91 octane gas will be limited to about 550whp, unless you have better fuel on the island.

 

Mind = blown.




I need a good job so I can do this sh|t.