I'm not sure specifically how many they worked on "without problems." I'm not 100% sure if anyone does these types of builds and never encounter a problem? Here is a link to the site in Kent, WA who are doing the work. A couple of their project cars are on there but I couldn't give specifics on how many successful tunes they've done specifically on G/Z cars. Then again I don't remember how many G/Zs are in Nascar using VQ motors either.

The shop acknowledges that Hal does good work and has no complaints about their experience with him back with Injected... everything they're saying is positive.

These guys (Intec) have extensive build experience with import cars and have an expansive network of resources to draw from. They have been impressively professional and patient throughout my issues, they stepped up when the balloon went up and accommodated me when I was stuck in Kent without a car. They've done everything (and more) that I would expect and I am completely happy with the direction they're taking me. Something bad happened during a pull on their dyno- granted. If it hadn't happened on the dyno it might have happened while I was on the road while trying to blow the doors off a lippy Accord driver. Who knows.

After talking to them about the 300lph pump we've agreed to go that route with 800cc injectors. We're sticking with the other parts mentioned earlier (and in my garage) and we're sticking with them doing the build. To introduce a third shop into the equation at this point... A shop on the other end of the country at that...

So anyone need some 600cc injectors that are BRAND new with 1 pull on a dyno on them... send me a PM and we'll have a chat about that. A normal walbro 255lph pump is also up for grabs soon.

http://www.intecracing.com/


Take a look! I have every confidence this car is in good hands and will be a freakin monster when we're done.

 

I'm not trying to knock your shop or make you have second thoughts, but there's really nothing on there website after looking at it: no parts list, tuning options, nothing really. I had my car worked on at GTM and SFR and i never had a issue with the motor blowing a rod, i did have a problem with the crossover pipe from the exhaust manifold that melted alot of wiring but i think i got that issue fixed for good, you can also compare there websites to your shop's website and you'll see what i mean http://www.gtmotorsports.com/ http://www.speedforceracing.com/index.php?ukey=home. I think you should research more about what they are certified to work on than what people tell you about them. good luck.

 

Apparently you missed the part about the visible signs of detonation being on the OLD spark plugs that were removed BEFORE the car went on the dyno? And that they were replaced with greddy L9's that looked perfect when checked after?

nuthuggin to the end

 

a bunch, including mine. Been making 540/572 Dynojet for a year, no problems, burns no oil. A shop isn't defined by its website, how many of you guys have actually been to GTM? Thats a trip they have an awesome website but good luck actually getting products after you place the order. I have a good friend locally who's car sat at GTM for over a year for a bolt on TT kit install and tune... Aren't they supposed to be superstars in the VQ field?? PM davboy on my350z if you dont believe me.

Or remember the threads about Forged performace's FUBAR builds that are now conveniently disappeared? I would never tell someone to ship their car across the country... ESPECIALLY to one of the big forum sponsors.

And as to making 600whp on 600cc injectors... good luck with that.

 

i feel you that websites don't mean anything, but when a person says check it out and on the website there trying to sell videos and Japanese new driver stickers and don't even have a parts section, that's not too convincing that there trying to sell parts or work on cars. i'm in total agreement with you on how GTM will sit on your car. i was deployed to Iraq for a year, i had them keep the car to do alot of work to it. i got back and my car was not finished, but they did not blow a rod putting it on the dyno either....

 

Yes, you're right that was very unclear in the original post. Did you miss the part where the shop recommended regapping IRIDIUM plugs? And how am I "nuthuggin" a shop that was mentioned by someone else? They have a good reputation for a reason. I've never had my car there for any kind of work. It seems you are the one with the biased and defensive responses.

I am glad to see that YOUR favorite shop has been able to build at least one FI VQ...

 

Every shop that has been around for a while has had motors go on them, its part of the business, no matter how good the tuning is. Anyone that tells you otherwise is full of it. Its nice how the almighty "forum sponsors" have the luxury of getting threads deleted and issues swept under the table everytime a dissatisfied customer puts them on blast, really helps keep that pristine reputation intact

 

i agree with seymore, this shop has been around here for a LOOOONG time. and they have been putting out some of the fastest if not the fastest VQ's in the region. This is one of the first issues ive heard about cars that they have worked on. They know what they are doing and would trust me with ANY of my cars.

 

Looks pretty clear to me

myself and 2 other local members were actually there when they were doing the spark plugs, Ian was told he had to run different plugs from the get go, he can chime in but I believe he even prepaid for them.

 

I can agree (and already stated) that a motor can let go at any power level. It may not be the tuner's fault if there was no evidence of detonation - you may never know - and perhaps it doesn't matter. Glad to hear this outfit has solid experience under their belts despite the weird list of "issues" presented by the OP that I addressed above. Perhaps something was lost in the translation...

 

Eh Dash...

I do apologize for my part in any misunderstanding in my initial posts following the completion of the turbo kit by one shop in Victoria and the tuning done at the other shop down in Kent, WA. I want to remind everyone that I'm very simple minded when it comes to cars overall and this has been a VERY steep learning curve for me. I have done my best to surround myself with folks who know a lot about cars (you guys) and try to take individual opinions and blend them together to something objective. Sometimes, I even succeed- other times... well... I get myself into situations like this one.

I've got some correspondence back from the shop regarding some of the discoveries that have come around as a result of taking the engine out and having a chance to inspect the deeper parts of the install.

1) First thing noticed was that the guys who did the install did not secure the front two motor mounts, and the whole motor was shifted to the side. The passenger side turbo and chargepipe were actually banging into the side of the engine bay while the other side had almost an inch of clearance. To say this discovery was a blessing was in fact saying very little indeed... and would have undoubtedly resulted in some significant badness later on.

2) The oil line issue that I mentioned before came out in a bit more detail. In their language: "The oil lines are a mess, it looks like they were using fuel line and random brass fittings to supply oil and coolant to the turbos."

3) Again, in their language: "The passenger side turbo actuator rod is loose, and the wastegate is placed crooked causing the actuator rod to catch on the cold side of the turbo, looking closely you can see a shiny spot where it has been rubbing on the turbo housing. If you look closely at picture 1 you can clearly see where its catching, and if this was catching it could cause the wastegate to not open and overboost the engine."

4) There were a few other issues that probably had less to do with the problems but may be an indication that my impressions of my original shop were off a bit. I knew it was going to be a tight fit so I expected some modifications to happen. Banging dents in stuff, grinding things down a bit... I thought that was normal and probably to some degree it is.

Anyway, thanks again to Intec Racing for their thorough inspection and efforts in getting this build cleaned up. They are in touch with me every step of the way and I couldn't be happier. These guys love what they do and it shows- if not on their website (I thought it was nice!) then where it REALLY counts: Doing it!

 

Appreciate the clarification and wish you the best of luck. Always good to see more 5AT guys going FI!

 

Engine is out... and a few other issues bubble to the surface. Some pretty sloppy work in some cases but for the most part all the things that were likely contributing to the overall problem we encountered on the dyno were already pointed out. Wastegates not being able to open, the engine front mount not being secured, the engine being crooked in the engine bay outright...

A lot of the other stuff would have degraded the build prematurely- inappropriate oil / coolant lines, crooked fitiment etc.

I'm posting some of the photos in this and previous posts as well.

Enjoy!


(Having trouble uploading- more pics to follow)

 

Now for the fun stuff, what are you adding to the build? For the engine I would keep it simple 9.0:1 compression pistons, eagle rods, cosworth bearings, ARP fasteners for rods and mains, L19 head studs, cosworth or HKS head gasket and a mild set of cams like JWT S1 with JWT valve springs that would be it for internals keep it simple. But what are you adding for supporting mods you are getting slim fans how about a larger rad, engine oil cooler, ATI or Fluidamper crank pulley, maybe some water/meth injection you know how it goes I was also going to ask, maybe Raj can answer this one do the TT auto guys swap out rear diffs for a 6mt one with 3.5FD for a little quicker get up and go, do the auto guys need to upgrade axles?

 

I wish i had stayed with the 3.3 rear and the 5at is easier on the axles thanks to the tq convertor.