Well, the gears are different sizes between the two. Remember there are 5 gears instead of 6 on the AT, so they are a bit larger.
I went with a 6MT final drive to make the LSD compatible. I don't know if it's changed now. There probably are some drop in LSD upgrades nowadays.

 

Yeah lots of guys get the 3.3 pumpkin and put in a LSD. I Have a 3.9 but the gears are awfully short. I have a 3.3 sitting on my floor waiting to go in one day.

 

I've had both 3.5 and 3.3 and I like the 3.3 gearing better, running over 500 wtq to my 5AT. It's only a subtle difference, but a little bit more traction is always a good thing

I only got the 3.5 for compatibility with the ATS carbon rear diff. I got tired of the carbon eating the bearings and the whining and the fluid changes, so finally went with a hassle free Quaife and the 3.3 gears. Much better for a street car!

 

I think you should stick with the 3.3 and go with an aftermarket LSD like......^......mentioned.

I'm currently running a 3.7 and trust me, with only 255's on the rear traction sucks.

 

I'm warming up my "THANKS" button this morning. It's new so I'm finding I'm pressing it a lot.


I don't want to go back in the thread and thank everyone so here's one big thumbs up to all of you so far just so you don't feel left out.

THANKS

Okay. Back to business.

I did some research on the Quaife ATB Rear Helical Differential 350Z/G35 and I was very, VERY interested in it because to be quite honest I had seen it mentioned a few times before and I had dismissed it as being something I didn't need for my build.

Ooops.

In my research (here) I learned that it is in fact almost irresponsible to NOT have this mechanism with massive power. On the plus side I recently learned of something "good" that will allow me to purchase this... but I don't think I'll pull the trigger on it until after I have the car "broken in" and take it back to intec for the final monster tune. I'll double check with them that they can install such a device (I can't imagine if they can strip an engine that this would be a problem?) but I will definitely be going that route sooner rather than later. Glad that you guys mentioned it!


I was also over looking at that new bumper thread and RCDASH was talking about a vertical intercooler design versus the more common horizontal (here at the bottom). I was surprised to learn through my research (mostly here) that the same size of vertical IC surface area could actually cool almost 4x the CFM as horizontal.

And no, I'm not going there at this point but I thought for some of you perusing the thread might be interested in this concept... I'd never heard of it. Then again 6 months ago I hadn't even heard of an intercooler.

If dash is reading this... I didn't want to thread jack over on that other thread but I was curious if JWT manufactures vertical ICs for his kits yet or if it's something you're going to go custom with? I presume you'd just adjust your piping to accommodate the new IC?

Anyone else have "detailed files?"

 

I say for the best cooling u should go with kurmura Z. like what joe has. Now can i get a thanks 2?

 

Bah! K2 FTMLW.

At some point in the future I might decide to go a different route or get someone with 1337 skilz to do some work on my K2 and adjust that fittiment issue. I think that drives me more crazy than anything else on the car... other than that back window rattle. Fricken stupid thing.

I have to admit though- I'm finding the Karuma Z is out there a bit too much for my liking so I'm going to keep my eyes out for something fresh. I like it- but I have a feeling if I were to go that route I'd probably (rightly) be accused of following someone else's theme a bit TOO closely. I think there's only room for one laser red 700bb TT G35C with Karuma Z in Alberta. Though... now that I'm in BC... MAaaaaaaaaaaaybe?

Kidding. K2 it is.

So no thanks for you! (but you get a kudos in your build thread for your awesome work to date!)

 

i will say the kurmura is out there like CRAZY!!! however i think it will allot you to get the most air. it was a practical choice.

 

I would get the Top Secret bumper watt before the Kruma. But I haven't had issues with my 600whp and nismo bumper with the JWT intercoolers.

Ian JWT only offers the two intercoolers the 350z and the G35 ones They are horizontal design.

I also run the Quafie LSD with 3.3gears it drives like an OEM VLSD I have heard others like Cusco have terrible street manners.

 

This is the intercooler JWT should have supplied with its 700bb tuner kit (same specs as the standard APS intercooler):



There are two versions - you want the one that is 9 inches high, not 6. I am having this installed along with the Kuruma Z in poly as we speak. I would have preferred the Inven, but function before form I guess. I'm hoping to get 4 psi of performance back at redline (when my manifold pressure is 14 psi, my turbo outlet pressure is 15 psi BUT when my manifold pressure is 19 psi, my turbo outlet pressure is 25 psi)!

http://www.treadstoneperformance.com...bo+Intercooler

 

Raj, this is the FMIC I use with my turbo kits (the 9" core) and they work awesome. Yesterday I did a bit of street tuning, and on a 4th gear pull on a 73deg day, my IAT at 7000rpm was 82deg (10psi of boost). These work great, and once I get back to the TT project, I will use that exact FMIC. I am sure you will get pressure back with this unit as well, as it will flow much better than the horizontal FMIC's.


As it sits on my Z:

 

I would also like to swap to the treadstone intercooler one day, but too many other things to work on first i also had thoughts on doing a custom twin IC set up I also think SFR has a more efficent twin IC set up, I want to keep my crash bar because when I was hitting the track on a regular basis....I needed the tow hook often

 

Since that IC is the same dimension as the APS, it should fit directly behind the crash bar. At least that is what I'm hoping. I've got two large coolers wedged in there also...

 

It will not be a simple fit. If you look at the APS FMIC, it requires you to notch the crash bar. Not only that, but it's outlet is pointing up, so it does not hit the support that holds the crash bar to the front, on the driver side.



The kit comes with a template so that the installer can cut the crash bar down.

You can find a bunch more pictures here (FMIC stuff is near the bottom):

http://www.airpowersystems.com/350z/...tall/guide.htm

 

Thank you for pointing me to those pics. Hopefully it will help my local installer.