FI: we're not in Kansas anymore...
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,282
Likes: 219
From: Alberta
We are going to try and offload them over there but if I have them left over I'll set them aside! I think mxwizard has my intake / ztube spoken for... I outright lost my Cobb somehow- no idea how that happened.
Might need to garage sale some parts here pretty soon. Still got most of an exhaust (not sure where the midpipe went) stock 18 wheels / rims, that trunk dual speaker setup and stereo / head unit. For another thread but a lot of parts came out of this build. Not home for another three weeks but anyone looking for repair parts let me know.
Might need to garage sale some parts here pretty soon. Still got most of an exhaust (not sure where the midpipe went) stock 18 wheels / rims, that trunk dual speaker setup and stereo / head unit. For another thread but a lot of parts came out of this build. Not home for another three weeks but anyone looking for repair parts let me know.
I'm reading from certain folks that the smell is pretty offensive. Are you guys talking going the TP route? I suppose with there being less exhaust because of FI that would negate some of the smell of fumes? TPs are also quite reasonably priced- especially in the states anyway...
No cats here and I drive w my windows open (hate AC) and the fumes burn my eyes. :P
It all depends on the tune, I'm running dual straight 3" exhaust off 3" downpipes with twins on a built low compression motor and full rfs making 550whp dynojet and I passed last month on the rollers with the sniffer
Check out these 3" cats... I've had them for 3 years pushing 415whp (including lots of track time) and no issues at all... I think the key is not just 3" but that they are metal core:
http://vibrantperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=857
Stinky when you start it up in the morning, also when you lay into boost, but no smell at all once you reach operating temps and are just idling or cruising around.
http://vibrantperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=857
Stinky when you start it up in the morning, also when you lay into boost, but no smell at all once you reach operating temps and are just idling or cruising around.
Just for the added HP I'd probably skip cats if I could do it all over again... but there ARE cats that are suitable for F/I such as the ones I mentioned... just not the bolt-on 2.5" ones for sale everywhere that are originally designed for N/A.
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,282
Likes: 219
From: Alberta
That's good to know... I'm not sure which way the end result is going. Most of it depends on what's available within the community in the area. I'm not sure how far we're going to be looking for a replacement solution. The mil.spec cats you're talking about... who makes those? I suppose I could just google it and figure it out myself but I suppose that's what part of this thread is about.
As seymore was saying I think I'm going to the TP route... I'm hung up on the fact that the car sounds EXACTLY as I was hoping for it to when I imagined the car sounding like anything in particular. I know this is no reason to go and have a couple of HFCs fail on me- regardless. I've been living with the "rasp-ish" monster for over a year now and I want that to be over with.
Fortunately, I think even a genius like me can do a cat change- provided the swap from HFC to TP isn't so significant as to need another tune... to further adjust things.
And, insofar as an update is concerned I recently talked to the shop finally on the phone and we discussed a couple of different items. Sounds like the block is finally done at the machine shop and they're putting the bearings in there. On the BEST case scenario the block will be back at Intec on Tuesday and they'll get some prep work going on it and start putting things in order. I'm imagining that all the parts they need to get started are arrived. Also, I think there was some ceramic coating going on a few choice parts, some parts are out for polishing... which had a pretty quick turn around and why it is that they were holding off until the end. Now I'm REALLY anxious for some "forward" progress reports. I mean forward as in... "Okay Eno, we've got your block built and here are a hundred pictures to feast your eyes on. This is what it SHOULD have looked like the first time around."
They also mentioned they're not going to want to go from cold to 500+ hp on the first tune and advised a break in period for 1000k or so before I put my big boy pants on. Which seemed reasonable to me.
We also had a bit of a hiccup on the Wilwood vs Stoptech brakes on account of a supplier whose price changed without us knowing and had resulted in a delay on delivery. Finally we went back and approached that issue and figured out what the problem was. The supplier had a pretty good deal going on the STs and so that option was put out there. My gut was telling me to stick the WW route and that seemed like the more attractive of the two options financially. Main resistance to the WW set from what I'd read was that pad replacements are much, much more expensive than the STs. Then again, as the shop said "Everyone on the track says ANY pad is too expensive." I won't be recharging the pads once a season like a lot of these guys are talking about and my use will be pretty light by comparison.
So in terms of the build progress my impression is the round is in the chamber, the hammer is cocked and the finger is just hovering over the trigger. Foreplay is over ladies... Now it's time to 4ck.
As seymore was saying I think I'm going to the TP route... I'm hung up on the fact that the car sounds EXACTLY as I was hoping for it to when I imagined the car sounding like anything in particular. I know this is no reason to go and have a couple of HFCs fail on me- regardless. I've been living with the "rasp-ish" monster for over a year now and I want that to be over with.
Fortunately, I think even a genius like me can do a cat change- provided the swap from HFC to TP isn't so significant as to need another tune... to further adjust things.
And, insofar as an update is concerned I recently talked to the shop finally on the phone and we discussed a couple of different items. Sounds like the block is finally done at the machine shop and they're putting the bearings in there. On the BEST case scenario the block will be back at Intec on Tuesday and they'll get some prep work going on it and start putting things in order. I'm imagining that all the parts they need to get started are arrived. Also, I think there was some ceramic coating going on a few choice parts, some parts are out for polishing... which had a pretty quick turn around and why it is that they were holding off until the end. Now I'm REALLY anxious for some "forward" progress reports. I mean forward as in... "Okay Eno, we've got your block built and here are a hundred pictures to feast your eyes on. This is what it SHOULD have looked like the first time around."
They also mentioned they're not going to want to go from cold to 500+ hp on the first tune and advised a break in period for 1000k or so before I put my big boy pants on. Which seemed reasonable to me.
We also had a bit of a hiccup on the Wilwood vs Stoptech brakes on account of a supplier whose price changed without us knowing and had resulted in a delay on delivery. Finally we went back and approached that issue and figured out what the problem was. The supplier had a pretty good deal going on the STs and so that option was put out there. My gut was telling me to stick the WW route and that seemed like the more attractive of the two options financially. Main resistance to the WW set from what I'd read was that pad replacements are much, much more expensive than the STs. Then again, as the shop said "Everyone on the track says ANY pad is too expensive." I won't be recharging the pads once a season like a lot of these guys are talking about and my use will be pretty light by comparison.
So in terms of the build progress my impression is the round is in the chamber, the hammer is cocked and the finger is just hovering over the trigger. Foreplay is over ladies... Now it's time to 4ck.
Last edited by Eno; Jun 5, 2011 at 11:35 PM.
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,282
Likes: 219
From: Alberta
Thanks Jamps! It's good to know...
Weekly update!
The block is all good to go and was picked up yesterday morning by Intec and with any luck things are finally starting to grind forward. The brakes were ordered, the tranny is finished and a tracking number has been generated for its return trip to Intec. I've asked the shop to stay on top of the photos so that I can share... though I think in looking over the thread I feel like I'm looking at someone else's car!
Also sounds like the shop found a set of test pipes though I'm not sure exactly what brand. We'll make sure they're right for the build of course... but I don't know much about it yet. They're still working on the details.
I've been looking a lot at the drivetrain threads with regards to the gear ratios and my understanding is the MT guys who go FI frequently swap out their pumpkins for an AT because it helps make some of the lower gears more manageable. It's something I've been just researching out of interest. At least SOMETHING on the AT was made right for FI... or do I have it wrong?
Things are chugging forward!
Weekly update!
The block is all good to go and was picked up yesterday morning by Intec and with any luck things are finally starting to grind forward. The brakes were ordered, the tranny is finished and a tracking number has been generated for its return trip to Intec. I've asked the shop to stay on top of the photos so that I can share... though I think in looking over the thread I feel like I'm looking at someone else's car!
Also sounds like the shop found a set of test pipes though I'm not sure exactly what brand. We'll make sure they're right for the build of course... but I don't know much about it yet. They're still working on the details.
I've been looking a lot at the drivetrain threads with regards to the gear ratios and my understanding is the MT guys who go FI frequently swap out their pumpkins for an AT because it helps make some of the lower gears more manageable. It's something I've been just researching out of interest. At least SOMETHING on the AT was made right for FI... or do I have it wrong?
Things are chugging forward!