i think you're asking how to remove the mazda key so you can put the infiniti key in? if so, you need to pop out the pin, then you can remove the mazda key.

 

yea does the pin just push out? mine won't budge.

 

ur gonna have to use a nail or another pin and hammer it out. mine didn't take much force but i couldn't do it with my hand alone.

 

kool. thanks!

 

I used a thumb tak or a push pin.. worked fine.

 

OK

I just did a Key remote swap but with a VW key fob instead of the Mazda
it was a pain in the **** but I am pretty proud of the end result, I think it looks clean and I like the functionality of it alot better than the orig. crappy nissan key and remote.

I have to say this posting and the other one with the guy who did the orig VW fob change out, were a great help and if not for good info like this I prob wouldn't even attempt it.

anyway to recap what i did, (wish I had remembered to take pics while I was working on it)
I took apart my remote and the Vw one, pretty easy, the VW just push in on the back center and pull apart and remove one screw behind the emblem.

This posting was a big help for the VW remote

https://g35driver.com/forums/showthr...ight=VW+remote

the difference is I did not have to cut the plastic of the remote, what I did instead was cut the circuit board on my remote down to fit into the space of the VW, it was almost a perfect fit, I cut the 1/4 part of the board at the fat end of our remotes, where the battery goes.

second thing is, the buttons on each remote are very different so I had to cut off the ones on the VW circuit board where they are connected to the board itself so I could use them on my board, I soldered small gauge wires to the same spots marked at the beginning of this thread, and soldered the other ends to the connectors on the new buttons from the VW remote.

using a Ohm meter I was able to find that the out of the four connections on each corner of the buttons only the cross/diagonal ones showed connectivity when the button was pressed, so these are the points that I attached the wire to for each buttons function on the board.

the hardest part was attaching the wires and button to the board using the soldering iron, trying not to have any of the wires or solder touch any other part or connection, plus there is no spot on our board for the panic button from the VW remote so I left that out ( I never planned on using it anyway)

the disable chip I place in the top part of the remote where the pivot for the key itself goes, there is a small compartment that is a perfect fit and it is right up against the back of the key so it was, well a perfect spot for it

now for the battery, what I did was bend back the flat connector for the battery terminal where the top of the battery face touches, this put it at the exact spot where it will contact the battery location of the new VW remote
I also placed a piece of non-conductive material between the the circuit board and this flat battery connector (I didn't want any other electrical components touching it, for the record I used a folded piece of paper which was thin enough for my use and I could cut to shape.

Now the other end of the battery connection I just soldered another small piece of wire from the back connector to the spot on the circuit board that needed to complete the circuit.

I also measured a length of wire that was the same as the antenna that was also cut off from the board, I soldered this in accroding to the orig. posting of the mazda thread. (my range is as good or better than the orig)

last things I had to check and deal with was the position of the buttons when I soldered them on (need to be sure to be on target with this)
at first putting the fob together I noticed that the circuit board was too close to the face of the remote where the buttons are pushed, this kept them from releasing, so I had to go back in and make sure I had something in place to keep the board pushed enough away from the face to alow the buttons to release freely.

last was cutting the key, wich I thought I had covered since I know a girl who is not a real locksmith but does lockouts for cars and runs iin those circles, well her new Husband ! is a locksmith but I didn't want to open that can of worms so I just used my dremel and made very small and precise cuts to get the key backing just right.

this was a long project which took alot of thinking ahead and planning plus the 4 hours of painstaking soldering, I don't think I would want to do it again unless I had to.

I guess now for the finished product

 

nice job man. i bought a 2nd mazda remote to make another one as a backup, i just don't have the time to do it again.

 

good work on the vw fob. does anyone know of any nice looking fob out there that might work with this? i found this one on ebay which looks sleek.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2006-...43977626QQrdZ1

**edit, im not sure is thats is really switchblade fob.

 

just and update, i finished mine and i love it. here are a few pixs. i used an audi fob. and thanks to dsi for the idea and accordfreak for all the info. and tonys-g with info that it works on the vw fob, which is almost identical to the audi fob.

also i did it all myself, even the key part.

 

wow that is amazing good work

 

nice...i have an extra audi spare key..should give this a try...

 

I've been trying to track down a good switchblade key to convert our key over, but can't really find anything worthwhile on ebay.

what do you guys think about this one? You think we can use this to convert ours to a switchblade? It's an aftermarket BMW Key, but who cares right? We just want the shell?

 

it looks alot like the Audi/VW switchblade keyfob, why not just get the VW one and use the postings allready done as a reference
either this or the Mazda one wouold turn out great

 

where is a good place to locate buttons to do this?

 

u can reuse the buttons on the key fob u ordered. just unsolder them form the board.