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There's a bolt kit on z1, and I'm sure other sites as well.
But having ordered hardware from them and realizing their markup for them putting stuff in a ziplock bag, I would probably just find the bolt specs and go to ACE or an industrial supplier to source them.
I’ve been trying to find the damn specs but having no luck, imma look on that website see what’s up
Here is what you should have, swing by the dealership and buy what you need, I wouldn't use random grade5 fasteners unless there was no other way and that thing had to be on the road now.
The dealership will probably be the easiest but will be costly. They may or may not have them in stock too.
You can get the proper bolts at Ace Hardware, lumberyards, Home Depot, etc, etc too (they all sell the same stuff). Check other bolts from the same assembly that you're working on for a number on the head of the bolt. In imperial sizes, they're called "grades" with Grade 8 being the strongest. You will have metric fasteners though and on metric fasteners, it will be a number, with "12.?" (I can't remember the decimal point) being the strongest. Also, without seeing the parts in question that you are bolting together, get fasteners that are the EXACT SAME LENGTH. If you can only find one that's 1/4" longer, for example, don't chance it unless you know nothing will interfere. If you're going into a blind hole (this is probably the case), if it's too long, you may not get sufficient thread engagement or worse, the fastener head won't reach the part you're clamping (not likely, but possible).
Grade 5 has the proper tensile rating the problem is they lack the corrosion resistance that you need.
You could probably use an SS fastener, or just use any old grade 5 nickel coated for a short time until you can get the correct bolts.
Grade 5 is metric 8.8
Grade 8 is metric 10.8
Metric grade 12.8 exceeds SAE tensile strength ratings. I'm not sure what exactly is used for those bolts and I'm not crawling under my car tonight, sorry.
For those of you who know/can figure it out (thread pitch tool and a digital caliper or whatever), McMaster-Carr (online) is a good place for hardware. Personally, I stay away from Home Depot or ACE or anything of the sorts for hardware on my vehicles
Thanks to everyone for helping me out!!! This was my brother and I first time doing any type of mechanical fix on the G35 so we were very unprepared and not careful!
Anyway, I ended getting a Vq35de manual transmission bolt kit from my local Infiniti dealership, the car is running and is ready for action, LOL!
Swapped out my rear Fortune Auto springs and shocks for a stiffer rate. Fortune “recommends” 10k front/8k rear or 12/10 for “race” set up. 10/8 is no where near stiff enough in this set up.
i swapped the rear springs to 10k and it was better, however, still squat too much.
They sent me 12k springs and matched shocks and yesterday we swapped them in and they are MUCH BETTER!
If if I had to do it all over again, I would probably go 12k front and 12 or even 14k rear for a perfect, nice and tight set up. Better to have a nice firm spring rate and be able to adjust your rebound to match perfectly. Nice thing about Fortune is that they match their spring and shock rates, so, you can really tune them in (time permitting).
the 10/8 set up is not even safe, as the back ends wanders all over the place. Good news is that they worked with me to make this right. Bad news is that whoever was feeding them info on a 10/8 rate was crazy. I wonder if Fortune ever even tested this set up???
She still looks great after all these years and you're sporting my favorite all time wheels. Volk SF Winnings FTMFW!!!
Thanks Blue!
Last year was a big year for her in terms of getting things done. This year not as much! I plan to get the drivers seat cushion bolster replaced later this month and I’m sitting on a JDM double din kit and radio that I’m going back and forth on bc I kind of don’t want to ruin the oem look. Also I’d like to rebuild the calipers and go to steel brake lines.
Next spring I’m going to paint the hood and touch up a few minor scratches.
I was actually considering painting the barrels of the Volks a gunmetal gray to match the face. Is that crazy?? Generally I hate chrome, but on the Volks it’s not so bad.
Last year was a big year for her in terms of getting things done. This year not as much! I plan to get the drivers seat cushion bolster replaced later this month and I’m sitting on a JDM double din kit and radio that I’m going back and forth on bc I kind of don’t want to ruin the oem look. Also I’d like to rebuild the calipers and go to steel brake lines.
Next spring I’m going to paint the hood and touch up a few minor scratches.
I was actually considering painting the barrels of the Volks a gunmetal gray to match the face. Is that crazy?? Generally I hate chrome, but on the Volks it’s not so bad.
A good rebuild goes a long way. I went to rebuild all four a few months back and ended up having to replace two calipers from salt corrosion. Rebuilt regularly this never would've been an issue.
Volk SF looks good.
I like the OEM speakers but I feel like the only thing it needed was a little extra bass... aka a 10" in the 4080 box. The DDin looks stock, everyone that sees mine thinks it's a factory option.
That’s a big concern of mine on the caliper rebuild...what are the odds that I run into a problem on my Brembos like you encountered and end up spending big bucks on new calipers? I’ve got 160k all weather miles.
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