Removed the back end of the exhaust last night. The night prior, my friends helped get the cats off...what a struggle of those three bolts on the driver side! Going to put on the motordyne shockwave and art pipes hopefully this Saturday as well as remove the driver side cat o2 sensor. I have been weighing and keeping track of what weighs how much and how much weight is being taken off. The stock muffler and exhaust tips weighs like 36 pounds!

 

If they are bad now they are not effectively braking you and you are losing out on performance. Also if they don't work VDC could improperly activate and cause you to crash. Rebuild em and worst case you just buy a new caliper. **** happens.

That's 1% of a weight difference it won't make a significant difference .

Are you auto or manual? I have auto G with ART/TDX2 and it drones too much from 1900-2400 RPM. I have a feeling the installer did something wrong as it "shouldn't drone" as it's the Perfect combo . Tony from Motordyne told me a little drone is expected with autos, but I don't think it should be this much.

 

Manual. Considering the cats weigh double the amount of the art pipes and the shockwave weighs only like 50 something lbs...a little bit is better than nothing.

 

This isn't a "what did I do today" but at this point just something I've considered: Silicone air intake hoses

As I understand things, pre-VQ36HR engines had poorer designed intake hoses. People often swapped them for intake hoses from Nissan Z or replaced everything with cold-air intakes. Apparently the factory hoses are much better but still have some "accordian" design in them. Then again, some claim there's a ram-air effect with the factory tubes.

What would I gain or lose with silicone intake hoses like these ? Will it make a little more sound ?

 

I have my ss lines that i used but took off...... just pay shipping and you can have them . There just laying around somewhere



I took a picture of my car I need to install those side marker lights lol

and buff it already

 

 

Buwahahahahahah 6.77 added HP from just a silicone hose?!?! I'd like to see the before and after dyno sheets, this might be up there in craziness with the Turbonator and performance chips. I firmly believe you'll get nothing from the silicone except maybe more longevity and better looks.. Power no change, sound no change.

 

 

 

Got them fancy black/yellow plates for the G and put clear covers on them. And of course they say "and beyond"

 

Awesome. No one will get it though because -

TO LEXUS... AND BEYOND!

 

I've often thought of getting a sticker of Buzz Lightyear for my back window. It would be better to be near the trunk logo, of course. Just wondering how many people would make the connection.

 

Changed the rear diff fluid and transfer case fluid this past week. Car has 115k miles on it and the previous owner (from brand new) was my younger sister. I have all of the service records up to ~70k miles as they had everything done at the dealer. After that, they used an independent place for routine work but didn't keep the records as much. Anyway, my BIL doesn't recall having any of these fluids changed so they were likely what came from the factory. That said, they looked awfully damn good for the # of miles they had. I saved a few ounces of the fluids and after a day or two, you'd never think they were 10 years old. The rear diff fluid did have metal "dust" like particles which is completely normal. Nothing noticed in the transfer case fluid and the fluid still smells like brand new ATF straight from the bottle.

On the rear diff fluid, I haven't owned a rear-wheel drive car since I was 20 years old - an '82 Toyota Supra - so I've never dealt with gear oil before. The stuff I put in, Lucas Heavy Duty 80W-90, was amber in color. I suppose gear oil can be tinted any color but the stuff that came out was reddish-tint similar to ATF. Do they vary ? Is that similar to the color that Nissan would use ? It wasn't ATF as it was much thicker.

Gates serpentine belt is being picked up today. I may wait until the next oil change is due since the bottom engine shield needs to come off to do this. While that's off, I'll do the front diff too. I probably won't wait though.... ~4000 miles on the current oil and am planning to go to 5000. Might even do an oil analysis. There are folks going 10-12k miles on good, full synthetic oils and labs like Blackstone suggest they could go longer. Even Infiniti says 7500 miles on conventional oil with non-severe use so 5000, 6000, 7000 miles shouldn't be a concern.

 

I would advise you not to go that far between oil changes. These cars burn oil, and you never really know how much unless you do your own changes and keep track. I know at the end of a 3000 mile conventional oil interval I'm a quart and a half low at 130k miles. If I tried to stretch that out to 7k following Infiniti's "specifications" that would result in a blown engine. Sure, you could check the dipstick regularly but I'd rather just change the oil twice as much than worry about checking that stupid thing every week.
EDIT: You're not a noob, you probably know this :P

 

Infiniti/Nissan RECENTLY changed their conventional oil interval to 7k because of better machining on the new class of motors however that oil change interval was applied to ALL vehicles in their computer system. You could literally bring in an old '80s Datsun and they would recommend 7k. I've already complaint to NNA about this change which WILL cause excess damage on any of the engines produced before ~2012 when the 7k oil conventional oil change interval became standard.

All G35's were intended for a 3750 mile oil change interval on conventional oil. Of course this varies based on driving habits.