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I gave my 2008 G35x to our daughter a year ago when she turned 16 and it finally needed some maintenance now that it's at 151k miles. Was leaking water so I started looking and it was dripping on the side of the timing case so it was time for a water pump. Since I was going to be in the timing cover I ordered the galley gaskets too. The biggest problem I ran into was I couldn't get the crank / balancer bolt off. I did this job without removing the radiator and front end so I was limited to a breaker bar. I was flexing a 1/2" breaker to the point of the pin shattering so I went out and bought a 3/4" breaker bar. It didn't flex but the balancer shattered where I had a pry bar jammed into it. So I used an angle grinder and chopped off the bolt head and removed the leftover pieces. The best thing I could have done through the job was keep rotating the engine so the front timing chain lined up on all three marks. When I popped the chain tensioner off the cams they shifted because of the valve springs. I just used a socket and 1/2" long ratchet to position the cam back while putting the chain back on. After I got it all together I took it for a spin and it had a horrible vibration. It was so bad the gas and brake pedal was vibrating. I threw it in neutral while it was going down the road and it still did it so I knew it wasn't the motor. So I changed both front wheel bearings and it fixed the shaking problem.
So I spent 4 days working on it because one water pump o-ring started leaking... another thing I learned is the o-ring would leak more when cold and when it would warm up it would almost completely seal off. Another good tip is to use a impact screwdriver for the galley gaskets, just don't wack em on very hard because the screws are not hardened. I guess it was worth all the work because I have read that most people have to pay around 2 grand for the water pump and galley gaskets with installation. Going to be honest though, that job really sucked.
Sometimes you can use a 1/2" impact swivel and have JUST enough of an angle to get an impact wrench on the crank bolt if you angle it down under the radiator support. Just be careful and once it starts to spin a little pull the swivel off and finish it with a breaker bar because as the crank bolt starts to push out it can really wedge the rest of your swivel/extension assembly into place if it's a really tight fit to start with.
I was so excited my first big DIY! I cleaned my MAF....... but than found that I ripped thoes soggy intake tubes............OEM 348 each side...... Z1 batter up!
Well it's been a while, but I had an engine delivered for a Vortech G35 Coupe I just bought with a blown up (rod went sideways) engine block.
It's been about 2 years since I owned a G.
Very excited to get back to VQ stuff. I see lots of aftermarket goodies are now available that were once 5-6x the cost in aluminum.
About to place an order for front camber arms, rear diff poly bushings, subframe poly inserts into OEM bushings, Diff brace, trans poly mount (street rays), and possibly more.
I'll add a pic here in a few when I can get garage talk working again on my phone.
3-7/8” clearance at the BOV 😬. Winch ftw. I think these are well known. My favorite G35 Wheel. True Coils - Stance. 6MT / PRO-EFI iBoost Kinetix & Vortech V3 SCi (stand-alone) supercharger (no oil to pan).
Last edited by Urbanengineer; Mar 28, 2022 at 02:50 AM.
Reason: Pics added
I had a vacuum leak in the OEM intake boot, so I decided to replace it with an aftermarket intake. I chose the aFe/Takeda Stage-2 "Cold Air" Intake System w/Pro DRY S Filter Media since it was on sale on Amazon for $230 and retails for $370. Sweet whistle at lower RPMs and over 3k has a nice deep sound. The only issue was if you overtighten the filter will slip too far "on" the tubing because it is tapered, not a big deal- just don't overtighten. Doesn't come with a heat shield so I will probably just make one; comes with 5 stickers 2 of one kind 2 of another and 1 carb compliant sticker. Definitely worth the money.
Well it's been a while, but I had an engine delivered for a Vortech G35 Coupe I just bought with a blown up (rod went sideways) engine block.
It's been about 2 years since I owned a G.
Very excited to get back to VQ stuff. I see lots of aftermarket goodies are now available that were once 5-6x the cost in aluminum.
About to place an order for front camber arms, rear diff poly bushings, subframe poly inserts into OEM bushings, Diff brace, trans poly mount (street rays), and possibly more.
I'll add a pic here in a few when I can get garage talk working again on my phone.
I think these are well known. My favorite G35 Wheel.
That's really awesome, the car looks clean and those wheels do look great. Good luck on the rebuild!
Made some More progress on the tear down. It’s been freezing weather here lately. Everything seems to be coming apart easily - no issues.
Once I can get the engine out and assess clutch / flywheel, I can begin to start ordering parts for the chassis / other engine. Galley gaskets, valve covers, and rear main seal would be the first things to come to mind.
Vortech checked out, no internal damage afaik reported by Vortech Cali (sent pictures, email chain).
Found the engine damage. Oof. Good thing I got a whole *** engine sitting next to this one ready to go in.
I started a new project in the carbon fiber department.
👀
excited to see more on this!
My tear down continues… found the missing ECU harness! Also found some water that leaked in from a bad grommet 😪. I will have to do some air drying at some point.
Removed some more wiring and got more out of the way to prepare to get the engine out. Priorities have got in the way of the car project, I have not made much progress. More in time.
Removed some more wiring and got more out of the way to prepare to get the engine out. Priorities have got in the way of the car project, I have not made much progress. More in time.
