no additional gains. those are very basic mods, your ECU will adjust itself as(if) necessary. Idle relearn only if you have a rough idle..

 

Does anyone know what the nuts on the bumper are called? The ones that slide on to the bumper on the bottom and you put bolts through from the undertray. Does anyone know where to get them in stainless?

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/120872364652
Not sure about stainless though

 

Thanks, I was looking for stainless because I find these are a real PITA when they seize up, and they usually take a piece of bumper with them. Any suggestions?

 

^yes, move to Florida or southern California

 

^jerk. lol.


I have had that happen to every piece I've tried taking off, it sucks!

 

How much do you drive yearly and how often do you change your oil? If you go "relatively" short intervals between changes (~5-8,000 miles) you can stick to dino oil. If you go longer (up to 10-12,000 miles) you can go with synthetic. That being said, I do ~10-11,000 miles annually and switched my G to synthetic at around the 15-20,000 mile mark. Whatever oil you choose, just make sure you change it regularly!

 

 

I was being serious. If I'm wrong, please correctify. Do our engines work worse with dino oil?

 

Conventional Oils are not designed with extended Drain intervals in mind like some "synthetics" are.

Short trip driving(less than 4-6 Miles), stop and go, long idling.. anything that can strain the engine is considered Severe Service. Most people fall under this category.

7500 mi Interval is only for "Normal Driving" which means ideal conditions which are almost never met.

Decent Conventional can do ~4-5k. But this all depends on your driving style and where you drive. You can get great Synthetic oil to look like crap after 4-5k miles in a UOA. But another driver can get 9k out of it. Its depends on location and how they drive. For instance I can drive in flat Florida with Oil X and after 5k miles the UOA looks great, where as for instance another person who lives in San Francisco and has to drive up hills a lot uses the same oil and gets much different results .

Just because an oil that touts x amount of mile OCI's does not mean you can even get close to that.

What you consider "relatively short" is actually the top end of synthetic oil life in our cars with ideal conditions. The VQ Motors are known for being hard on oil.

OCI = Oil Change Interval
UOA = Used Oil Analysis

 

Thank you for the edumacation.

g35_white: please ignore everything I said and read ^^ by thescreensavers

 

I wish lol, maybe I'll move to Silicon Valley when Im older :P

Since I cant find it in stainless, my plan is to buy a bunch, then dip them in plastidip.. Ill put a screw in first to protect the threads. The plastidip should make it grippier on the bumper, and protect it from rust.

That + stainless steel screws, and I think I should be well protected against rust.

 

Get some Anti-seize for the threads, no need to get anything special they aren't torqued too hard so even if the head sees some rust it shouldn't be an issue?

Then again I never dealt with rust lol, but for the threads you want anti-seize thats what its for.

 

Anyone know if a g35 coupe midpipe or a 350z midpipe will fit on a 05 maxima?

my friend wants his maxima to have a slightly deeper tone, and is wondering if it is a not to difficult swap.

 

I'll have to grab some of that too.

As far as rust goes, Canada has it bad!

I was changing sideskirts yesterday, the screws that I took out resemble nails more than screws, they pretty much fell out.