No more than 14k and that's if its excellent condition maybe more if modded

 

This is an impossible question. Prices vary thousands of dollars by crossing a border into another state. Let alone differnent climates. How many owners, condition of car, paint, transmission, clutch, sold safetied/etested, etc.

the point is, YOU need to research local listings that compare to the car you have infront of you, and find the 'average' price. Then negotiate from that juncture.

What is the asking price?

That's a ridiculous price. And car's aren't worth more modified, they're more often worth LESS.

 

So currently for my G a 05 g35x sedan I have almost all bolt ons Plenum,Intake (JWT and Z tube) and HFC I'm planning to order the Megan racing catback and get the transgo shift kit and then finally the up rev tune. So after all this is there any more performance upgrades besides FI?? Which is what I plan to do in the near future hopefully by January. I can't think of anything else to get for upgrades besides looks and what not. Any ideas? Also off topic but should I get the Stillen Gen 1 instead of the Megan catback? Im sure the stillen Gen 1 is pretty loud as well but will give me more HP. I kinda want my exhaust to sound like a coupe or a FX35.

 

in my area i seen 07 6mt coupes with 40-60k go for 17-19k all day 37's are only high teens to mid 20's and so are 370's i bought my coupe for 10k stock and my bro bought his 06 with rays and stance suspension ,vortech and had 69k on it ... some people charge more for mods like wheels and suspension if you have folks or a 3500$ suspension you going to charge more than what is worth

 

Asking or charging more than the car and parts is worth is far different than actually selling the car for that much. I'm sure many cars are listed higher than what the owner really wants to sell the car for due to lowballers, etc... and the higher price is just a better starting point for negotiating, in which case the best price for the used car is one where both the buyer and the seller are happy, no matter how high or how low the final selling price is.

 

Good thing those aren`t two Completely different versions with different engines, and a 4 year production spread.

Awesome comparison

IJS

Fixed

You CAN sell a car with mods for more, it`s just WAY harder, and you almost always lose more money than you would if you parted the car out first and sold it stock.

 

So I'm looking at purchasing these rims

http://www.wheelsnext.com/wheels-tir...perblack.html\

I'm on stock sport suspension, no lowering or anything. whats the best tire set up I could go with?

 

Which do you guys think is better: the V+ plenum or the 5/16 MD spacer?
And resonated test pipes or high flow cats?

 

V+ and test pipe .. v+ fight best against heat soak

 

Get the spacer..

 

the spacer good too i have both installed at the moment but they put a piece inside so it would work together the V+ get slightly less hp but heat soak kills the hp ive had mine for over 1yr no problems

 

^ You have the V+ and the spacer installed?

 

Yea I had to remove my strut bar there is another member who has the same thing its equal to the 5/8 spacer but you have to make or find something so the v+ doesn't crack with the spacer like I piece that u put inside to hold up the plenum

 

No, you can get them new from shops or dealerships, but expect to pay an arm and a leg for one.

http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...oducts_id=6431 (For those too lazy to look, it costs $355.70)
OK, you can find it for less from dealerships or other shops, but don't expect anything under $300 for a new midpipe or "center muffler".

You can always pick up a 350Z midpipe, but you'll need a 4" extension. Beyond that, they're the same. I actually have one of these for sale, but I'm too lazy to post it up right now, and I definitely do not want to ship.

 

I can understand the properties of whatever materials they use being better in the fight against heat, but that still leaves the metal lower plenum sitting directly on an extremely hot motor, transferring all that heat to the intake air. So all in all, saying an upper plenum will reduce intake temps enough to make a real difference seems a bit far fetched. If anything, the upper plenum stays cool, so it's easy to believe your intake temps are lower.

While the Motordyne spacer does nothing against the heat, it can come with a kit that includes the Iso Thermal gasket that will keep the heat off of the intake plenum altogether, lowering the temps enough that you will be able to rest your hand on the metal plenums after running the car hard for a while. And this thing actually will reduce intake temps as it keeps the heat off of both the upper and lower plenums.

Either way, upper plenums like the V+ and spacers like Motordyne's do exactly the same thing - they allow more space with taller walls in the plenum so the intake air has a better path to flow into the motor. The 5/18 spacer is popular because it's the smallest size to show the best gains. Larger spacers have shown no real improvements over the 5/18 at all. They all do the same thing and they all work the same. And apparently one will not be better than the other.

And I don't meant to pick on you, I'm just trying to get some facts straight as it seems apparent from all of your posts that you've been terribly misinformed about a lot of things.