Been chasing this code for a week now. Now, before everyone goes "galley gasket" - those were replaced back in 2022 with MLS ones from Z1, along with the main timing chain, tensioner, and guides. The old paper ones were blown out, but never threw any of the usual codes.
I did not feel like it was necessary to mess with the cam tensioners and chains (mistake?) at the time. Now, if it were the galley gaskets, i'd expect B2 code to pop as well, but B2 operates as it should (see below).

Went to the JY today and got some new solenoids from a low(er) mileage G37 and EX35 and popped it in on B1. I use NDSIII to monitor and before this replacement, the intake cam advance would be pretty erratic. It was sluggish and then would advance way too far vs readings on B2. Now, it's still pretty sluggish to kick in, but doesn't deviate above B2 like before. All sensors (including the "faulty" one) OHMed out in spec (below 10 Ohms).

FSM lists some potential causes (+my comments):

• Crankshaft position sensor (POS) - brand new
• Camshaft position sensor (PHASE) - all four brand new
• Intake valve control solenoid valve - JY swap
• Accumulation of debris to the signal pick-up portion of the camshaft - I guess I could pop cam sensors and try to use some compressed air in those holes? i ain't taking that valve cover off again lol
• Timing chain installation - Could it be sprocket related? Cam tensioner taking a ****?
• Foreign matter caught in the oil groove for intake valve timing control - they list a procedure where you take the solenoid off and try to crank it over (with fueling disabled) to see if oil squirts out. very scientific lol i may try that.

It could still be a crappy solenoid from the JY, but freaggin' infiniti made the stupid tabs different across the banks, so you can't just swap B1/B2 around. You can, but the oil cavities won't line up properly.

Attaching my log from earlier today. You can see B1 consistently lagging B2 on the graph (x axis RPM, y axis Intake Cam advance). Only did 2k-3k RPM, since that's where it appears to utilize the solenoids the most, but it's the same picture across the RPM range.

 

well, the "very scientific" method showed a nice puddle of oil under the car, so it is getting plenty of oil... back to the drawing board.

 

Well, i've done some more troubleshooting and no dice. Everything is pointing at the stupid effing phaser... I'm linking a thread and a video below that show what could be the culprit. I will do one more hail merry before calling it quits - grab a "new" connector for that vvt solenoid from a jy and see if it does anything. I tried swapping B1/B2 connectors, but it was running funky. I'm def not opening that front cover back up unless it starts running like shiat.

P0011 but no issues with engine at all | Nissan Frontier Forum (clubfrontier.org)


p.s. might also talk to some tuners and see if this whole vvt bullsh** can be tuned out.

 

Still at it... just for sh** and giggles threw in the bank 2 vvt ( i know, the mounting tabs are located in a different spot) from the same EX35 the current B1 came from, and it appears to have smoothed out the timing advance on B1 and it's much closer to B2 on a short drive i did earlier today (second graph below).2k rpm is still pretty dead, but the rest of the rpm range is much, much better.

I mean, what are the odds that the vvt for bank 1 i got from this EX35 donor was/is also shot? Car was supposed to have around 100k on it. Strange stuff. I will keep driving it and will log some more before shelling out the $$$ for a brand new Hitachi B1 sensor.


5/24/24 log 2k-4k rpm range

6/10/24 log 2k-4k rpm range

 

Didi you look at my erratic valve timing control in Post #16 due to the bad CAM sensors? I will assume you have an HR so you will need OEM new sensors not junk yard ones since you cannot tell if they're OEM or not. Also, when OHM testing them at room temp, they might all read similar to specs but once warmed up (past 160 degrees), they will probably not. But, if they all do, then most likely it's gonna be your cam phaser that's worn out. From my research it's gonna be the magnet inside the aluminum case, not on the camshaft side. I have also had that in mind when mine was acting up but after looking at the graphs before and after, i can see that my graph line is almost equal to both banks after installing my old OEM sensors.

You mentioned debris stuck to the tip of the cam sensors? Is it silver in color? Because i had that on the Hitachi sensors for some reason and i even have that showing in my thread in post #27. I first thought it was aluminum shavings from the engine but then i realized that aluminum is not magnetic. I never bothered to figure out what that was since my Denso sensors didn't have that on them and fixed my issue. But seriously, when i saw that at first, i thought my cam caps were shaving themselves down! I know that didn't really happened but when you're chasing issues around the engine and see that when your mind is clouded, it's pretty scary!

NDS will not help you much in figuring out this issue, i bought it and it didn't. I've bought VXDiag SE for Nissan from eBay for $220, downloaded the free Consult 3+ software, installed it on my old Win11 22H2 laptop and then i was able to fully diag the car. Also, i've used a xTool D7 from amazon to read graphs on sensors and mostly all the stuff that Consult 3+ can do except programming EMC, BCM, keys and such, for that, Consult 3+ is worth having.

 

all four of the cam and crank sensors are brand new (denso). i've been logging it a few more times and it looks better first 3-5 minutes, then gets worse. it most likely is the phaser. still drives strong, so no incentive to tear into it yet.

nope, that was just a step in the FSM. no debris on that bank.

 

Ok, so the cam/crank sensors are out of the equation. You're left with cam phaser or solenoid. Heat expands, cold shrinks so if the engine runs smooth until oil gets to 130+ degrees, then will be one of the two or both. I've unplugged my solenoids during my 'process of elimination' event back in january and guess what, nothing changed on the graphs or while revving it up at idle. I didn't drive the car with solenoids off because it didn't solve my long cranking start up time. But i've had a 2004 Ford 6.0 powerstroke diesel and it has one major solenoid that will leave you stranded anywhere at any time; The IPR valve. That thing left me stranded plenty of times out of nowhere, it's always hot and used to stick, many of them had dirt stuck inside which prevented the plunger from moving eventho the fine mesh screen was there.
These VQ35HR systems won't pin point exact issue, like the cam sensor, there are 2, i never got a code for 'Bank 1 Left sensor', it's bank 1 so take a guess, but luckily there are only one of the solenoids for each cam.
See if you can source out a used one, complete phaser with solenoid on eBay or JY before you whip out major dough for a new one.. And if that one phaser is going out, then the other one will follow soon after..

 

it runs just fine cold and/or hot. at least i don't notice any performance degradation.

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solenoid, i.e. VVT solenoid? i've grabbed four spares from a G37/EX35 and all are throwing the same code. Has to be the effing phaser. Do you know if you can disable VVT thru consult? talked to a local tuner and he thinks he can do it, but it's a lot cheaper to just clear this code a few times a week right now lol i'd hate to tear into the front cover again after the timing job a few years ago.

 

To disable the cam solenoids you'll probably need a standalone engine management system, the stock ECU, I don't think anyone wants to deal with it. Consult will not disable them for testing, like the service manual says, if it's throwing the code, just replace it.

The phaser system is inside the front small cam cover, you don't have to open the main timing cover to service them.

Link to the item

 

the magnet is for the exhaust cam. the intake phaser i'm talking about is the one that's driven by the timing chain and is operated via oil pressure by the vvt solenoid, hence my reluctance to **** with it.

 

Exhaust has the magnet and intake has the oil phaser mechanical system, you're right about that. I've seen few videos about those failing but usually when they are starved of oil or poor maintenance. First thing I'd replace is the intake solenoid with OEM new one from a dealer or Z1 and if still the same codes comes up, then pull the vtc cover off and inspect the intake tube.

There are 2 ring seals on it that go inside the cam. If they're broken or worn out, I'm sure the oil pressure will drop. If it's too advanced then it's not retarding and I don't know if retarding mean bleed off oil pressure or pump in oil pressure.

You'll need a new cover gasket for that, I'd try that first before taking off the chains..
I've replaced my oil galley gaskets from Z1 because I thought my oil pressure was too low on startups but I was mostly there for the water pump that was leaking badly. But my galley gaskets were more than good, no cracks or anything.

Since you've swapped out few solenoids and same issue, then I'd pull the VTC cover off and inspect the holes for blockage and those seals.
Cam sprocket should make some noise from what I've read on other forums if it's worn out, especially on cold starts.

 

i do hear some clacking that appears to be emanating from that general area (right around 1.8-2k on a cold start). it's more subtle after it's warmed up. i'd take that cover off if it wasn't such a pita with one of the bolts covered by the p/s bracket (wtf, nissan...). i've had both vtc covers replaced some time ago due to the exhaust magnets taking a **** (p0014/p0024) and swapped the mls gaskets in at the same time.

 

I didn't have that issue yet so can't really fix it for u, but if I did, I would pull the valve covers off and use proper size wrench to move the intake cams back and forth to see if they move and sound the same on both sides before replacing the sprockets. I'm not saying it's the right way to diagnose this but it's what I would do first and if they are the same on both sides, then you know the rest of the story..