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Infiniti Rev-Up Oil Consumption TSB

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  #1126  
Old 03-19-2010, 02:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Jairen
Thanks. that was the answer I was looking for.

When I did my initial check, I was down past 10mm after on a cold engine that has been sitting for 48 hours.

Per TSB (30 minutes or longer), the readings are SO inaccurate, I can't see how a dealership can make an ACCURATE reading. My oil level checks fluctuate too much to get an accurate reading after only 30 minutes. When taking readings with a cold engine sitting for more than 24 hours, readings were very close to each other.

What confused me was when I did my initial 1000 mile check, Mr. service guy said my oil was FULL after 30 minutes off. I checked my oil level before leaving for the dealership and my readings were around 10mm low which is in the "no good" zone.

On my next check, I'll let the engine sit for as long as I can before my service guy checks the oil levels.
Yeah, I found such disparity from cold to hot, from adding oil and not driving afterward to driving several miles after adding oil to kick oil around and so forth, that over time I adopted my current habit of ONLY making measurements in the morning after the car has sat all night... Now granted, that is not a luxury one can have when you need to make a measurement at the dealer unless of course you wanted to go park it there overnight, have someone take you home, and come back in the morning... Hardly practical... Just do what you said, try to wait as long as possible, even offer to go walk somewhere and buy yourself some lunch before coming back to do an oil check with the service guy... Good luck and let us know how it goes... thanks... bob...
 
  #1127  
Old 03-19-2010, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Jairen
Thanks. that was the answer I was looking for.

When I did my initial check, I was down past 10mm after on a cold engine that has been sitting for 48 hours.

Per TSB (30 minutes or longer), the readings are SO inaccurate, I can't see how a dealership can make an ACCURATE reading. My oil level checks fluctuate too much to get an accurate reading after only 30 minutes. When taking readings with a cold engine sitting for more than 24 hours, readings were very close to each other.

What confused me was when I did my initial 1000 mile check, Mr. service guy said my oil was FULL after 30 minutes off. I checked my oil level before leaving for the dealership and my readings were around 10mm low which is in the "no good" zone.

On my next check, I'll let the engine sit for as long as I can before my service guy checks the oil levels.
Oil doesn't expand from 10mm down 'cold' to full mark with just heat expansion and with the fact that oil still in your upper valve train not completely drained back to pan.

You got played imo like I did once. I was 9mm down, but full at dealership and knew I got played with that result (they topped me off then took official return test reading). I requested test to continue knowing I couldn't trust them as far as I could throw them from that point on.

So, I came back when I was 24mm low 'cold' next time (screw their 1000 mileage thing). My G sat at dealer again ~40 min (didn't leave my sight either that return trip <-- important!). They pull the stick in my presence and measured 23mm from my 24mm cold at home. They couldn't play me that time and I qualified.
 
  #1128  
Old 03-19-2010, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by SaintRedRocket
Yes, the steering wheel, brakes, and entire electrical system blacked out on me. The entire car turned off completely. I tried to restart the car while it was swerving towards the barrier, but it wouldn't as much as turn over. The entire car was a 4K pound brick going 60mph across 3 lanes of traffic out of control towards a concrete wall.

The only thing that saved me was the slight angle of the steering wheel position and being able to disengage the clutch before I got t-boned by an F450.

The steering wheel completely locked up and wouldn't budge a single centimeter. Even with adrenaline running and eminent disaster, it wouldn't move.

Infiniti told me that they couldn't figure out what happened, but they tried to start the car up the next morning after they put roughly 5 quarts of oil in the engine and filled the coolant reservoir and it started right up. They told me to come pick my car up immediately because nothing is wrong with it and tried to make me pay $290 for an oil change without my consent and inspection of the car.

Told them to send the bill to collections because they will never see a penny of that money from me. This is the 4th time that that dealership has put my G35 back on the road as an extremely dangerous vehicle to be operating.

I've given ICA 5 weeks to respond to my claim, so the next step will be a suing them in the next two weeks.
Must admit I'm scratching my head on that one too. Long as the ignition switch is in the on position, the steering wheel should stay free to turn even without engine running. Anyway, glad you seem ok after that to type your experience here. Wow that's crazy....

File complaints with NHTSA, Federal Trade Commission and BBB too.
 
  #1129  
Old 03-19-2010, 08:10 PM
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hey all .. last month I had my long block replaced for OC issues .. I am about 880 miles into the break in process and I have not gone passed 4K rpm to make sure things are breaking in fine .. I vary my speed and I don't floor it .. part of the reason I even thought to check for this OC issue was a pinging noise I was getting when under load and with the car warmed up .. now that the weather is getting warmer I can hear the ping SLIGHTLY again .. nothing like it was but still annoying to hear ANY ping .. also, I checked my oil and it seems to be low AGAIN .. now, is it normal for oil to burn/consume during the break in process because I've read that somewhere .. ?? also, what are the odds that the replacement part would have the SAME OC issue as the crapp parts I had a month ago ??
 
  #1130  
Old 03-20-2010, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 90NA300ZX
I'm still just confused that the steering wheel locked up on you. To the best of my knowledge, the locking device is completely mechanical, not tied to any electrict system at all....and having the key in the ignition releases the lock.

Same with the brakes...sure they're hard as hell to use without power assist, but in the end they're still just a hydraulic system and you should still have braking power without the car running.
I'm still confused about it also. There was zero power in the car and it wouldn't do anything when I turned the key. From what I understand from the dealer, they said that the steering column will lock up if the system thinks someone is trying to steal the car. I've only had the steering wheel lock up on me one other time and that was when the car was sitting in my garage a couple years ago and I tried to straighten out the wheels without putting the key in the ignition.

The tow guy was able to get the wheel to unlock after 5 minutes when the power seemed to come back on.
 
  #1131  
Old 03-20-2010, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by V35 Skyline GT
Must admit I'm scratching my head on that one too. Long as the ignition switch is in the on position, the steering wheel should stay free to turn even without engine running. Anyway, glad you seem ok after that to type your experience here. Wow that's crazy....

File complaints with NHTSA, Federal Trade Commission and BBB too.
Thanks...

The key was in the "on" position, but there was zero power going to it, so the light that comes on letting you know that the key is installed was not working.

The entire electrical system failed and must have been receiving a trickle charge. None of the outside lights were functioning either. When the tow truck finally got the steering wheel to unlock, the outside lights wouldn't turn off even though they were in the off position and the key was removed from the ignition entirely.
 
  #1132  
Old 03-20-2010, 04:41 PM
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I was topped off after my last check after 1000. It's only been 800 miles and this is what my dipstick looks like now. This is EXACTLY what my oil level looked like on my first 1000 mile checked and they told me it was FULL. This was at a well known Infiniti dealership in SoCal.

Sorry for the bad picture but you cal clearly see that the oil level is NOT full. This was done at exactly 30 minutes with engine off.

 
  #1133  
Old 03-20-2010, 05:52 PM
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^ Next return trip to dealer don't let your G leave your sight. Be there when they pull the stick. They're obviously playing games with you, so play smarter back....

G/L
 
  #1134  
Old 03-20-2010, 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by V35 Skyline GT
^ Next return trip to dealer don't let your G leave your sight. Be there when they pull the stick. They're obviously playing games with you, so play smarter back....

G/L
I went back to the dealer. They got me down for 15mm in 900 miles for my 2nd check.

They said it fell in the "no good" catergory and will call me on Monday with the approval.

Hopefully it gets replaced.
 
  #1135  
Old 03-22-2010, 11:51 AM
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Just got a call from Ben at Riverside Infiniti and got approved for an engine replacement.
 
  #1136  
Old 03-22-2010, 08:45 PM
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^ Great news...
 
  #1137  
Old 03-26-2010, 12:10 AM
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Well, I dropped the car off today at Riverside Infiniti and got a G37 loaner. Things hauls. The G37 interior makes my G35 feel like an 85 civic in comparison.

Well, I drop the car off around 10am and got a call around 4pm. They tell me that a motor mount is busted in two pieces and need to buy a new one for $230.

I talked to the tech doing the swap and said that mods are NO ISSUE. I mentioned my test pipes and said it wasn't a problem at all. He mentioned that he sees them all the time. What was funny is that, he said he's done so many swaps that he can do it in a day and was "really simple" and "very easy".
 
  #1138  
Old 03-26-2010, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Jairen
They tell me that a motor mount is busted in two pieces and need to buy a new one for $230.
I would've thought that be covered under warranty ... interesting.
 
  #1139  
Old 03-27-2010, 09:37 PM
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I just want to say...

Thanks for this thread. I got my car back today with the new engine. Motor looks brand new under my old hardware.

For anyone that is wondering about the OC issue and has a custom tune, my Osiris tune was still intact. Maps functioned as it should. Motor feels smoother than the old one which has over 200 passes at the strip. Time for me to go back to Church Automotive to get a re-tune for the new motor once it's broken in.
 
  #1140  
Old 03-28-2010, 12:15 AM
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i got my car back today after the motor replacement for oil consumption. i was 24mm low @ 1000 miles after OC. What sucks for me is theres a squeaking/ticking noise only in 5th or 6th gear coming from maybe a pulley or something from the right side of the engine where the noise is. doesnt seem to be a pulley but idk it only happens at 60 to 80 (havent gone passed 80 yet lol)
 


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