There's been several hundred (at least) that have used the ROEM-NIS2. If it didn't work, it wouldn't be on my list.

The bose amp isn't going to keep up with the output from the sub, so unless you're doing rap where you want the bass to overpower everything else, you'll want to upgrade the amp.

The proper install method is to connect the ROEM-NIS2 to the speaker-level outputs from the radio, that leaves the RCA outputs from the radio unused. What you'll be doing is running RCAs for all the channels when you run your subwoofer channel. That way, once you add the JL amp, you've already got the clean RCA inputs you need. Then you'll just connect the amp up to the factory speaker wiring to get to the speakers. The ROEM-NIS2 can stay connected, but it won't be doing anything beyond acting as a wiring harness at that point, so it'll be a $30 part doing the work of a $10 part.

The good thing about the coupe, is that it's pretty easy to mount the new amp so that you don't need to extend any of the stock wiring - just run power and RCAs to it.

 

Thanks again Mate, you're the man👍
I have another question here though
I have six speakers in my car which you already know
2 front +2 tweeters, 2 sides, and 2 rears
Will it be safe to use the JL audio XD400/4 on those speakers?
Is there a wiring diagram that explains how to make the connections?
Will I of to run 2 remote wires and a 6 channel RCA cable from the HU
To run 2 AMPs?

Excuse me for being a noob
Thanks again 😃

 

If you go with a small sub, like 8", you can bridge two of the XD400's channels to run the sub, then run only the sub and front speakers, and you'll be ok with that. With the sub in the rear, you definitely don't want to be running the rear 6x9's.

You'll run a single remote wire, and if you're just doing the left front, right front and sub channels, only need three RCA cables, but you can run up to six channels if you want to plan for future expansion.

Wiring diagram - just look up the wire colors in the FSM for the bose amplifier section - http://psedog.com/cars/fsm/g35/coupe/2006/av.pdf

 

My plan was to used the JL XD400 on the surround and get another JL 1000w to run a single 10" or 12" sub
The thing is I listen to different kind of music
So sometime I'm going to need the sub to stand out and another I'm going to need to hear my surround that's the reason I ask how to wire the six on that particular JL 4 channel
If it can't work I would just go with a JL 6 ch.

 

If you're going to really do surround right, you need a dedicated signal processor, like the JBL MS-8. Otherwise you're going to muddy the sound by trying to turn a stereo signal into six channels with various speakers at various distances.

If you add a sub, you absolutely do not need the rear 6x9s, and honestly, if you replace the front speakers with good components, you don't want the factory rear 6.5's being used either.

My recommendation based on having done very good front components with good coaxials in the rear + a sub - adding the rears was a waste of watts. It sounds much better with all that power being sent just to the front with the sub.

When you do the install, just add in a remote subwoofer gain control so you can quickly adjust the levels. They're available for most amps and are much more convenient than trying to adjust things through the headunit.

 

I went about 3 days without a gain control ****. Definitely need that control...

 

Thanks again for all the inputs, replies and professional help
I guess I need to add cat5 cable to my installation list for the gain control?, I think that connector is a RJ11
Whats the best bang for the buck RCA cables?
Because I saw RCA cables up to $60 (twisted and shielded etc.) it's not like they're studio cables, is it just an over kill?
And does the JBL installation kit worth what it's going for (2gauge $149+, 0 gauge $200+)?
I know they say welding cable is better and cheaper, but I can only get it in one colour(BLK)
I need my stuff to look clean and professional, also I wouldn't mind using 0 gauge if it's not an over kill
So is there any where or particular brand you would recommend that sells reasonable and true gauge?
I heard a lot of people saying oxygen free, corrode free is better, but I think if you get real copper and solder, crimp and solder, then shrink wrap, it should be good...
Am I right?

 

The control **** usually comes with the wire you need.
Any shielded RCA cable is as good as any other.
You can get good dual-amp 0 gauge kits for under $150.
If you do the wiring path and amp under the trunk panel like I did in the above picture, all the wiring is completely hidden, so there's no reason to choose anything based on color.
0 gauge and such doesn't get soldered, just really, really big crimps.

The rest of the wiring, solder & heatshrink.

 

I just received my JDM double din kit, and my Metra Axxess ASWC-1 is on it's way
What good dual amp 0 gauge kit would you recommend?

 

Used some of this KnuKoncept cable before, good stuff: http://amzn.to/1gOkNkH

18' is enough to go from the battery to the back corner where the factory amp is located in the coupes.

 

Looks good, the only thing I didn't like was the main fuse holder
Which side of the car you ran your power wire?

 

Passenger side is the only side that makes sense. 17 feet runs fine along the passenger side, but you'd probably need another 5-6 feet at least to go along the driver's side.

 

Thanks for the great help Wrathernaut
I spoke to a Rep at knukonceptz today, he said I'll get better shipping price buying from their on line store http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...rodID=KFX-PK20

I was checking in to Maestro RR module, I call them and they told me it can work with my 06 Coupe from once I buy a compatible HU, I might not get my TPMS info but I'll get some more convenient features along with steering wheel control.

Do you know of anyone that have tried the Maestro RR on their G?

 

Well, the ASWC-1 does the steering wheel control for about $40. I doubt they'll put the effort in to get anything else working with it. G35 is listed as compatible, but there's nothing in the instructions for our car, so, save your money and just go with the ASWC-1.

 

I understand, I already purchased the ASWC-1, but if I should get one to try I'll let everyone know....