I picked up Energy suspension ones, still waiting for them to get here :X

 

How do you tell the compression rod bushings are torn? What is the visual evidence? Can you see the tearing or damage when the car is on ground or only when on lift?
I had the bushings replaced at about 75,000 miles (now 100K miles). The front suspension was creaky on bumps and the steering was loose at higher speed. The Infiniti tech said the bushings were torn, and I had replaced at Dealer. Now, I am hearing slight creaking again on driveways but handling is OK. So, i would like to visually check for tears but I don't know what to look for.

 

Get it on the lift and look directly at the bushings for any cracking. Even slight cracking can cause creaking and other eratic suspension issues. I just had both my compression rods replaced after 52,000 miles. They were cracked for quite some time and I just lived with it. I know they don't last long even after replacement. Good luck.

 

Hi all,

This is my first post here and I thought I would share my experience. I bought my 2004 G35 Sedan one month ago, all was fine and dandy, couldn't have been any happier with it, coming from a high mileage 2000 Maxima before it that was falling apart lol. Two weeks later I started getting a faint clunk/rattle on the drivers side over the bumpy, icy roads (mostly in my neighborhood at slow-ish speeds, I live in Ottawa, Canada). Over the course of two more weeks it got worse. So I changed the sway bar end link on the driver side since it was a cheap thing to try, didn't change anything. I had already purchased the compression rod, but I was not keen on putting it on because when I had the car on the hoist, no play was noticeable in the ball joint, and the bushing was in tact. After being so frustrated with it, yesterday I decided to go ahead and replace it anyways. Clunk gone!! It was the compression rod ball joint that was toast. Car feels brand new again. Do NOT count out the ball joint end of the compression rod. They could be equally as faulty as anything else, and you may not be able to see any play even with the car on a hoist. Hope this helps someone else!

 

Just updating my situation , i replaced the compression rod bushings .

But encountered another problem with the inner tie rods, left side needs replacing.

 

That is the very reason the compression rod should be changed as one piece rather than just the bushing. Also, with all the extensive labor to remove the compression rod, even if the outer ball joint is ok, there is always the risk of damaging it during the removal or scratching the tapered ends making it impossible to reinstall. Another front end problem with these cars are the ball joints attached to the front spindle. They dry out and eventually the boot tears, Another clunking noise and that spindle is super expensive to replace. I had both compression rods and both steering spindles changed under warranty after only 52,000 miles. I expect I'll be doing them again within the next few years. We have a very fragile front end on the earlier G35s. The crazy thing is I live in Florida with perfectly smooth roads. I can just imagine how quickly these parts fail up north in the urban areas.

 

its probably been answered but i can't find it and im on my super slow work computer, why wont the coupe compression arms work on sedans? I have an 04 RWD sedan. reason i ask is because rockauto only has the arms for the coupe and would rather not have to spend an arm and a leg at the dealership on the arms.

 

Ball joints don't dry out themselves if the boots don't tear. I'd replace the bushings only.

 

Just replaced my CRB's with SPL Pro and I am very impressed with the differance in steering response. The NVH did increase slightly when on ruff streets but nothing I can't live with. The ball joint end of compression rod came out without any major force and I took advantage of being able to relube them when I had them off. Got them back on without any problems so I'm betting I'm good. I will let you know how the SPL's hold up, I'm in Az so not a ton of rain to deal with. These new SPL's have a lubricated Teflon liner as well as o-ring seals so hopefully I won't be having problems for a while. My advice is to check the ball joint rubber, if t seems brittle then I would replace the whole rod if not and you want a slight sporty advantage and a longer lasting CRB I would check out the SPL's and do the yourself they are not that hard for anyone with an impact,drivers, and a torq wrench. I just dropped my tie rod and pulled them out

 

Are you guys greasing the new OEM rods/bushings during installation? just wondering...

 

just change the bushings. I changed the bushings and the squeeks


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I have the exact same issue. I have been under my car and also at the dealer. They said the compression rod is good and everything is tight. They suggested I try the steering box. Well that put a stop to everything. I refused and after trying myself to isolate the problem, everything under the car looks and feels tight with no cracked boots or rubber. I checked the sway bar bushings and they can cause this noise. The old ones weren't too bad but I changed them. No change in noise.
I think the compression rod is going to be changed. This is so frustrating and a **** off. This will be the second time on this side in 3 years.

 

Over the last 10 years I have had all the compressions rods replaced as well as all the ball joints.

 

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