Be nice! He asked a question and it got lost in the rest of the stuff.

 

Thanks for the link. A Fidanza flywheel and Speck II clutch (much lighter setup) was worth 3 tenths on the 1/4 on my 02' Z28. Also a tad easier on the tranny...But I had to power-shift or lose inertia, after 140+ passes my T56 was still ok. That was a 120 mph car.

 

3 tenths? What about trap?

My flywheel killed my car. Consider:

December of 06: my car had ~12k miles or so, no tuning, panel filter, and highflow cats. On all season tires, I was able to run 13.791@102.22mph, but that was in 25 degree weather. If I recall, that was a mid 2.1 sixty foot.

A year later, with intake, full exhaust, spacer, and mrev, I couldn't get back to the 13's in 45 degree weather at the same track. Part of that was the fact I was on summer tires, but my flywheel really did hurt my sixty. I had the trap to get back into the 13's, but never the traction.

Regardless, I had plenty of runs before and after the flywheel, and I never picked up any trap.

Not arguing with you - just surprised.

 

But I'm not a nice guy.

*scratches nuts*

*walks away grumbling*

 

.3? That stock flywheel must have weighed 84 lbs.

 

Or how few times it can handle this. The risk/reward ratio is not worth it.[/QUOTE]

Luckily they're relatively cheap ($100) and easy to replace (20 minutes).

There are a handful of Z owners running slicks and not snapping halfshafts. The key to launching on slicks is to not shock the driveline. If you rev up to 6000rpms and dump the clutch and the tires bite, those shafts will probably snap. Same goes if you get any axle tramp. IMO, slicks are actually easier on the drivetrain than DRs and many other people feel the same way. DRs have stiffer sidewalls and the tread compound is a cross between a radial and slick. Both these characteristics can cause axle tramp problems where as the slick is "squishy" and can absorb shock plus the rubber can twist a bit on the rim, again removing shock. Slicks offer up FAR more consistency and can allow you to be as aggressive as you want to be in terms of the launch. You can go all out and grab a 1.7 or launch at 4000rpm and grab a low 1.9.

To launch on slicks, you rev up to the desired rpm, pull up the e-brake (holding the release button in), release the clutch until it starts to grab and motor will try to push againist the brakes. You have now loaded the drivetrain and this will reduce shock on the tranny and axles. When it's time to go, quickly release the clutch, drop the e-brake, while feeding the throttle. It's tricky, but it works.

 

The friends that helped me do the swap as well as myself were surprised too. I had fried the stock clutch, had to replace it and gambled on a different setup. Fidanza explained to me that high HP/TQ engines pushing a lighter car benefits the most from an aluminum flywheel. My Z28 LS1 dynoed on a Dynojet 390+ hp and 380+ tq. No BS #s. It was base, no Ttops, roll down windows, etc... leather was the only option. Tipped the scales under 3,300, I'm 5'9 150lbs.
Your car has lower HP/TQ #s and = or more weight. Thus, it may work for road racing when the timing of letting off is as important as acceleration and it decelerates quicker the lighter the setup. I'm sure a road racer can confirm this. Yet it may be too light for drag racing your car or any other with similar power/weight ratio. That's why I had to power-shift every gear.
I do not want to come across as some expert, far from it. I learn every day.
I'm going to dig up some evidence (time-slips), and hopefully post something tonight. Oh, and I picked up 2-3 mph. To top this off I launched at IDLE.

 

Sophomoric comments like: “ignorance”, “shut the **** up”, “********”…

Birmingham at its finest I guess

 

It's cool man - I'm not calling bs or anything. I too powershift every gear, and after a few hundred passes - the tranny argues with me now.

If you can find some timeslips, I'd like to see them. It's very interesting.

 

Re: Flywheel.

After I got my lightweight flywheel installed, I've not been able to chirp my tires. The clutch plate was switched to a grabbier disk, and the pressure plate was upgraded as well. My theory is that the lightwight flywheel is unable to store enough energy to cause a loss of traction.

No this is not a G, but I have minimal drag racing experience, and am always interested in learning more . The stock setup is made to slip slightly to keep the engine over 6000 rpm between shifts, with my aftermarket setup, I cannot sustain that. I know my 0-60 times have suffered because of my setup. However, my setup is geared toward road racing and track days, which the light flywheel is awesome for.

Back to the theory part: is that why I can't chirp anymore? Even with the stock setup and the slight slip dialed in from the factory, I was able to chirp the tires. I've only tried a few times, and don't really want to try anymore since s2k drivetrains are relatively fragile. I did try when I got my new tires a few weeks ago, and also right before I swapped out the old tires after they were hemmoraging grip from being bald.

Sidebar: the flywheel is 8.6 lbs.

 

Time Slips Z28:

https://g35driver.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1224544818

 

Here's a picture of my old Z28:

https://g35driver.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1224545674

 

Honestly, the only improvement I see in those slips is that the car pulled a better 60' (over .1 seconds) and that equates to the typical .15 seconds shedded on the far end. All I'm seeing here is that the lightened flywheel didn't hurt your car's performance.

 

I'm sorry, all I hear is mumbling from my e-dick being in your mouth.

Were you saying something ?




Don't forget to coddle the *****.

 

I use own a modded 94 Z28 and my roommate had a 90 notch with 3.73s, exhaust, timing advance, UDPs, smog removed, etc. I drove that notch a lot. From 0-70mph it was always close and then the Z28 would run away. I don't miss that Z28 at all, but I greatly miss that notch. I would love to have a 87-93 notch as a fun car. I absolutely love them.