Drivetrain Questions and info regarding transmissions, clutches, etc.

RPM's at 80 MPH

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  #166  
Old 12-22-2009, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by nfsp1
^Just for the record, that thread was deleted, and not for OT posts. And OCG35 didn't start the potato chip joke, he only continued it, along with others. And before anyone claim's I'm taking sides, I've had my fair share of arguements with him as well, but it's really not worth getting worked up over.
Actually, it was deleted because the admin labelled as a troll post. I wanted the potato crap deleted (yes even my post that started it) because it evolved into a ecu discussion that had good info. But because people kept trashing it and because the admin didn't feel it was worth his time to sort though the bs, it went bye bye.
 
  #167  
Old 12-22-2009, 03:09 PM
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^I'm aware of that... but this thread is well on it's way to "not worth the time to sort though the bs"
 
  #168  
Old 12-22-2009, 03:11 PM
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And why is that? (in your opinion)
 
  #169  
Old 12-22-2009, 03:21 PM
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^First, because you and Mike spent quite a number of PAGES on a discussion about swapping gears, and while different ratios do affect RPM's at 80, the discussion between you two rather quickly left that topic. But mostly because now, we're not even anywhere close to the OP, instead You and Mike are just arguing (apparently for the sake of it) and You and I are OT on why this thread is OT. This very post is an example of what I'm talking about.

I'm done... I was interested in RPM's at 80 because one day I will change ratios... but all this drama is too much. I'm out.
 
  #170  
Old 12-22-2009, 03:33 PM
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Post #134 is where it got ridiculous and it wasn't me doing it. Again, my discussion was ONLY about setting up the rear, the cost and the real value of shipping a set of ring pinion only vs shipping the entire thing

Considering it takes an extra set of bearings, a bunch of tools that aren't normally owned and either expertise or alot of patience, I don't know why my posts were flamed.

A few shops on the Z forum quoted anywhere from $400-$450+ to have the rearend setup right.

A DIY might need the following:

Tool List
When working on your differential you will need a wide variety of tools. Using the correct tools saves time and helps prevent parts from being damaged. Here is a list of some of the tools that you may need:

Dial indicator
Gear marking compound and a clean brush
Calipers or a micrometer
Bearing pullers
Bearing press
Three foot long breaker bar or strong impact gun
Pinion nut socket
Ring gear bolt socket
Carrier cap bolt socket
Six point cross pin bolt wrench
Brake line wrench
Pry bars for removing the carrier case
24 oz ball pein hammer
48 oz sledge hammer
48 oz plastic dead blow hammer
Assorted brass punches
Punch for marking carrier caps
Oil drain pan
Foot pounds torque wrench
Inch pounds torque wrench
After looking at some instructions, it looks like a pain and I can see why shops charge that much.
 
  #171  
Old 12-22-2009, 03:48 PM
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^^^ totally OT and has been since you first stated posting about it...

Why do you insist on keeping it OT?

You didn't get enough attention as a child did you ~ it's rhetorical I'm positive I know the correct answer.

BTW, in many cases you can re-use the bearings (mine weren't replaced)... please stop posting foolish info that you are clueless about.
 
  #172  
Old 12-22-2009, 03:51 PM
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Listing the tools that may be needed to install a ring/pinon gear that's the main point of the discussion is OT. Interesting. Yet asking me about my childhood = totally revelant.

That makes for quite a bit of sense as most here are noticing.
 
  #173  
Old 12-22-2009, 03:55 PM
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you did a google search, copy pasted a tools/parts list from the first link regarding a domestic rear end and gave info that you are totally clueless about (having to replace bearings)...

Yes, I can analyze you over the internet and am positive I'm right about your childhood.

Next.
 
  #174  
Old 12-22-2009, 04:08 PM
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Oh really. Let's see, what was your recommendation? And what is the info from someone that knows?

Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
bearings, seals, and setting the backlash, properly torquing the pinion nut - about a 4-5 hour job for shops experienced with this type of work.
But tell me, what tools are necessary and what aren't? from that list? All knowing one?
 
  #175  
Old 12-22-2009, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Oh really. Let's see, what was your recommendation? And what is the info from someone that knows?



But tell me, what tools are necessary and what aren't? from that list? All knowing one?
it wasn't "my recommendation"... it was what was done on my car (as I already stated)... and the only "part" other than the actual gear set was the crush sleeve - TS has a bunch of shims on hand, which is good because most Nissan shops don't carry the variety of sized necessary - its typically a week long order. Crush Sleeve and shims are the only parts - and I already mentioned that way earlier in the thread... Bearings were re-used.

I've already offered WAYYYY more information (from experience not forum searches) than you ever will (and than you are worthy of actually).

Considering Toll was going to do a $700 DIY job for the VB, this $400-$450 job is clearly something that he might have been interested.

Having all that been said - I never attempted to list a DIY on how to do the job. Hell, I don't even do my own laundry (yes I pay people to do that too)... this doesn't mean I'm not capable - it means I hate spending time on tedious crap... which is peculiar since I waste so munch time on you.
 
  #176  
Old 12-22-2009, 05:23 PM
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Never asked you for a diy list. I knew you wouldn't know. Just asked if you knew what was involved and what the costs might be. Because because toll's time and maybe buying the tools needed might exceed the cost just to ship the unit complete.

As stated clearly right when I started asking.

But you first stated he would only need the crush sleeve. Are you to assume Toll also would have a "bunch of shims onhand"? And if the dealers don't usually have these, how is he going to get his hands on some in a somewhat reasonable manner?
 

Last edited by Jeff92se; 12-22-2009 at 05:29 PM.
  #177  
Old 12-22-2009, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Never asked you for a diy list. I knew you wouldn't know. Just asked if you knew what was involved and what the costs might be. Because toll might because toll's time and maybe buying the tools needed might exceed the cost just to ship the unit complete.

As stated clearly right when I started asking.

But you first stated he would only need the crush sleeve. Are you to assume Toll also would have a "bunch of shims onhand"? And if the dealers don't usually have these, how is he going to get his hands on some in a somewhat reasonable manner?
you have a.d.d dont you... in the posts (way back when we started this)... I stated "providing he has the tools or access to them"... and within moments of stating crush sleeve, I added a post to mention the shims and even indicated that might be the tricky part.

Re-read Jeff and get back to me when you are up to speed.
 
  #178  
Old 12-22-2009, 05:33 PM
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so you assumed he has some differential shims just laying around. Okay.
 
  #179  
Old 12-22-2009, 05:36 PM
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I didn't assume anything - was giving the man an option.

The crush sleeve and shim posts were responding to your questions.

You really should re-read... you seem to be lost and confused.
 
  #180  
Old 12-22-2009, 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
After looking at some instructions, it looks like a pain and I can see why shops charge that much.
For those that wondering and still reading, it is a pain in the butt to set up a rear end correctly. Usually not a lot has to be replaced, but it takes a lot of measuring and remeasuring. It's not something most DIYers will attempt, even the most mechanically inclined. It takes a lot of time and patience. There's a difference between calling it "good" and calling it "correct". While I've never setup a diff, I've watched someone do it and it's clearly an art. I've read the FSM procedure for the G/Z and it's quite intensive.
 


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