DIY: 5AT to 6MT SWAP.
completed swap
Thanks to everyone who helped put this post up. Made my swap possible.
Small note: if you do this, make sure to unplug seat warmers. They will no longer work and will short out your interior/rear light fuse! (Behind battery).
Might as well upgrade to better lighter seats lol
Also, put a cloth or plastic around the shifter itself under the shifter assembly.the hole in the chassis that the trans shifter goes into ( the part that needs to be cut an inch or so) will be a lot wider than the actual trans part so if you drive in the highway or cruise, hot air will shoot up there from the engine.
My shift **** use to get super hot until I covered the gap with two random cloths.
Small note: if you do this, make sure to unplug seat warmers. They will no longer work and will short out your interior/rear light fuse! (Behind battery).
Might as well upgrade to better lighter seats lol
Also, put a cloth or plastic around the shifter itself under the shifter assembly.the hole in the chassis that the trans shifter goes into ( the part that needs to be cut an inch or so) will be a lot wider than the actual trans part so if you drive in the highway or cruise, hot air will shoot up there from the engine.
My shift **** use to get super hot until I covered the gap with two random cloths.
Hey There. First of all props to Demolition cause this thread also helped me out a lot with my conversion.
I'm a member of the infinitiscene.com forum and am driving an 's FX35 with F/I set-up. Had a bit of bad luck with that. First engine blown due to timing chain issues.....and the second due to my tranny wich took out my rear main bearing (and the rest) at 120+ miles an hour. So engine number 3 is a fact and didn't want to go A/T anymore as well. Now there is another FX driver who did this swap so i knew it was possible but i took a lot of info from this thread.
My problem now is i still have that U1000 code along with a U1001 Can error.
What i did was put some OEM connectors and wiring wich i had and was cut of the Z wiring harness and put them on the Neutral position and Reverse light sensor on the back of the tranny. I found out wich pins on the 10 pin A/T connector were the onces needed to make the loom and wired them together under the car. I didn't want to run a wire towards the clutch paddle when i could get a signal below as well. I did a Flash from Osiris but they didn't exactly know wich ROM they had to give me so gave me 2.......607ROM and 702 ROM.
My tuner flashed one of them and the car runs well but still have the codes. We can delete them but they keep coming back. So i hope you guys can help me out here. Have some questions:
1) Was it still beter i wired the Neutral position sensor directly to the clutch assambly as i read soimething about it now might have a constant plus signal wich then might give the error i'm having?
2) Do i have the different ROM and should i use the other one....?
3) My brack pedal i kept and welded the Z pad on to it. But the FX ( and maybe Z/G ) A/T pedal have 2 connectors on there. Gues one for the interlock position. I have both of them connected as i used my A/T wiring harness. But with the ECU now thinking it is M/T might that be a problem that conector is still on...??
4) I read some of you saying that trough osiris you can block these error codes. Can anyone tell me how ? I gues my tuner ( who doesn't have that much experiance with osoris ) doenst know either
It seems that the Z harness is a bit different in length at some point due to the differences in body size. So that is why i kept my harness.
I live in the Netherlands ( europe ) and can't find any intel here along with G parts so hope to fix it this way. Eny help would be appriciated. Can't get a hold on that other FX guy unfortunalty but everything i have read here sounds very formiliar.
I'm a member of the infinitiscene.com forum and am driving an 's FX35 with F/I set-up. Had a bit of bad luck with that. First engine blown due to timing chain issues.....and the second due to my tranny wich took out my rear main bearing (and the rest) at 120+ miles an hour. So engine number 3 is a fact and didn't want to go A/T anymore as well. Now there is another FX driver who did this swap so i knew it was possible but i took a lot of info from this thread.
My problem now is i still have that U1000 code along with a U1001 Can error.
What i did was put some OEM connectors and wiring wich i had and was cut of the Z wiring harness and put them on the Neutral position and Reverse light sensor on the back of the tranny. I found out wich pins on the 10 pin A/T connector were the onces needed to make the loom and wired them together under the car. I didn't want to run a wire towards the clutch paddle when i could get a signal below as well. I did a Flash from Osiris but they didn't exactly know wich ROM they had to give me so gave me 2.......607ROM and 702 ROM.
My tuner flashed one of them and the car runs well but still have the codes. We can delete them but they keep coming back. So i hope you guys can help me out here. Have some questions:
1) Was it still beter i wired the Neutral position sensor directly to the clutch assambly as i read soimething about it now might have a constant plus signal wich then might give the error i'm having?
2) Do i have the different ROM and should i use the other one....?
3) My brack pedal i kept and welded the Z pad on to it. But the FX ( and maybe Z/G ) A/T pedal have 2 connectors on there. Gues one for the interlock position. I have both of them connected as i used my A/T wiring harness. But with the ECU now thinking it is M/T might that be a problem that conector is still on...??
4) I read some of you saying that trough osiris you can block these error codes. Can anyone tell me how ? I gues my tuner ( who doesn't have that much experiance with osoris ) doenst know either
It seems that the Z harness is a bit different in length at some point due to the differences in body size. So that is why i kept my harness.
I live in the Netherlands ( europe ) and can't find any intel here along with G parts so hope to fix it this way. Eny help would be appriciated. Can't get a hold on that other FX guy unfortunalty but everything i have read here sounds very formiliar.
Last edited by FX-Ray; Oct 25, 2014 at 09:40 AM.
Ok seemed i had the wrong ROM from uprev. They gave me 2......as they didn't exactly know wich one was best for the FX. Seemed the AM607 rom was the A/T (and off course i put that one) and the other AM702 was the M/T. Problem solved !!
INFINITI FX35 RWD F/I
INFINITI FX35 RWD F/I
I am currently in the process of gathering the necessary parts. Only things I need are silver shifter trim, trans, clutch/flywheel and brake pedal. I got most of the interior pieces like center console and ebrake which are hard to source as well as part of the 6mt trans tunnel to seal it up. I was just wondering if the Ebrake cable needs to be changed when converting to a handbrake? I could not find conclusive info on the handbrake and the cable. Any help on that would be appreciated.
Don't know for sure but i believe when you get the handbrake assambly along with the cable that goes with that you will be able to connect them to your exhisting "cable-split-location"
INFINITI FX35 RWD F/I
INFINITI FX35 RWD F/I
Thanks! I did find it in a thread briefly mentioned on my350z. I ended up buying the cable from the split for ~$30. all the other parts I took from a junkyard including cutting out the shifter hole on the trans tunnel for a clean install. I now have pretty much everything except a clutch and the clutch slave/master which I will be ordering soon.
Hi, I am currently in the process of doing the swap on a 03 Sedan.
I am keeping the differential from the automatic (open diff) .
Knowing the MT6 come with LSD, I din't know if both differentials were same length.
Anyone here who did it and keep AT differential can tell me if you simply took a MT shaft and it bolt on?
Thanks
Jean-Philip
I am keeping the differential from the automatic (open diff) .
Knowing the MT6 come with LSD, I din't know if both differentials were same length.
Anyone here who did it and keep AT differential can tell me if you simply took a MT shaft and it bolt on?
Thanks
Jean-Philip
Thansk you, I finaly did find an 4 doors Manual Driveshaft
because I am converting a 4 door automatic into manual ;-)
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Had hard time removing this part... You need a "Weld Bit drill" to do it... https://www.machinemart.co.uk/images.../040210467.jpg

I am soon ready to install the clutch pedal, I was wondering, what are you guy doing with the top bolt? Because we don't have the top bracket on an automatic... will the firewall be enoug stiff to hold correctly when clutching with a pedal only holding from the 2 master cylinder bolts?
because I am converting a 4 door automatic into manual ;-)-------------
Had hard time removing this part... You need a "Weld Bit drill" to do it... https://www.machinemart.co.uk/images.../040210467.jpg

I am soon ready to install the clutch pedal, I was wondering, what are you guy doing with the top bolt? Because we don't have the top bracket on an automatic... will the firewall be enoug stiff to hold correctly when clutching with a pedal only holding from the 2 master cylinder bolts?
Last edited by AbyteZero; Aug 10, 2015 at 12:38 PM. Reason: merged 2 answer into one
This is a great thread and a wealth of knowledge! Props to you guys who are tackling this first, its always hardest to be first at something.
My questions is this... Is this possible with V36's? What about the G35x with AWD? Very interested in this as I've got a 07' G35x... Love the 5AT and the ATTESA-ETS pro, but I'm used to rowing through gears and miss having a manual.
My questions is this... Is this possible with V36's? What about the G35x with AWD? Very interested in this as I've got a 07' G35x... Love the 5AT and the ATTESA-ETS pro, but I'm used to rowing through gears and miss having a manual.
I didn't really see any other red flags that would prevent this from going smoothly in an AWD application. We will have added CEL codes thrown although they may just cause the "AWD" light to come on.
This thread is great. I have compiled a checklist of parts to buy and operations I need to complete right down to the wire colors. Awesome.
AWD>RWD
RWDAT>RWDMT
We will see.
Josip, eBay has GT-R (R32-R34) transmissions with the transfer case. You would just need custom drive shafts. I don't know about the length differences or if the bell housings are different. In Japan they were able to put one into a Coupe, so I would think a G35X wouldn't have much of an issue tot install one.
Josip, eBay has GT-R (R32-R34) transmissions with the transfer case. You would just need custom drive shafts. I don't know about the length differences or if the bell housings are different. In Japan they were able to put one into a Coupe, so I would think a G35X wouldn't have much of an issue tot install one.
Hey buddy, I have a G35x as well. I'm excited to see that you're attempting this! Have you made a lot of progress yet? I was trying to think of what else might be needed to change... my thoughts were the crossmember (as you stated), front suspension parts considering you'll not be using the front axles, dropping the transfer case, etc. It would be great if you could provide an additional parts list!
Hey buddy, I have a G35x as well. I'm excited to see that you're attempting this! Have you made a lot of progress yet? I was trying to think of what else might be needed to change... my thoughts were the crossmember (as you stated), front suspension parts considering you'll not be using the front axles, dropping the transfer case, etc. It would be great if you could provide an additional parts list!
I have made a lot of progress on my build. Check out my other post for converting your X to RWD before starting the swap. I did not change out any front suspension components.
The first snag I ran into is the fact that the X uses a different driveshaft than the other auto coupes and sedans. They relocated the center support studs back probably for the T case. I am hoping a 1 piece shaft will work out, the only issue I am foreseeing is if the length is off.
The other X related issue is the fact that the X member cannot be re-used and the transmission mount is also different. Both need to be purchased from the RWD model. I am machining my own RWD aluminum transmission mount, I will upload pics of it all when this swap is on the road.
So far I have gotten the clutch lines, SS, MS, clutch pedal, E brake, center console, and LSD w/ solid bushings installed.
Up next is a wire tuck/high temp expandable split loom wrap, wrap the topspeed headers, install 1 piece driveshaft, buy the motor and tranny, then paint the motor gunmetal before beginning the installation.
So far it has been easy; I am managing to get it done on the one day a week I have free between school, work, and homework. So far ~5 days spent including pulling the engine/tranny and $1500 spent including the $750 I got for my old engine. The AWD sedan has a lot of parts to sell off to make some $ back such as the front differential, T case, and hard to find transmission.
Wish me luck
-Mike





