Yes I did leave that detail out...I don't know how on earth you get a clean reading with this dipstick. Even when the car has sat overnight, when I check the dipstick it is always covered with oil. So after an unsuccesful dipstick reading I just dumped a qt. I still haven't come across a way to get a clean accurate reading...any suggestions?????

 

after letting it sit for at least 10 minutes on a level surface, first take out the dipstick and wipe it clean, then re-insert it and remove it again to get an accurate reading.

 

That works, but I like the overnight method so no oil what-so-ever is up in tube after reinserting.
What I do is, sit overnight or very long time and use both hands. One to pull stick, the other I use finger to help guide out the stick straight as possible from tube opening so not to rub on side of tube. After tube and finger, the stick can bend all it wants getting around air intake while pulling. I get a clean reading every time.

 

This is the method that I use after the car has been sitting overnight.

 

Not bashing anyone here, but I found when I remove, wipe, reinsert, then remove to read...the tube now has oil in it from the intitial removal and makes it hard to read level due to oil smeared all over stick even with my 2 hand/finger method. But if it works for you guys...its all good. Doesnt work for me with the bad angle design. Has to be first pull cold to get clean accurate reading.

 

As my 06 coupe is not consuming as much as most of you guys(1 quart every 2300 miles) my question is what kind of damage, if any, is being done to the engine and or exhaust system...My car consumes zero in the first 1,000 miles then slowly begins to consume......I really love my G and don't want to sell it as there are no others except maybe a modded g35 sedan that spark my imagination.....

 

Checked the oil last night, I'm 1500 over the oil change that's 9000 miles and it's 2/3 quart low. Not bad.

 

Add me to your list had an 06 6mt which got it's engine replaced at about 8000 miles. The new engine started to make similar noises after I put 2000 miles on it (had to fill it up with a quart too). I didn't wait to see, I got rid of the car little pass 10k miles.
But like a blind idiot, I went and bought brand new 07 same equipt like my 06.
I have not even 3000 miles on it and already added 3 quarts at 1800 miles it started to knock and today took it to dealer again (2800 miles) cause there was no oil.

 

I finally got a call back from NNA today after 2 nasty voicemails. I'm glad I took it though, because they said I'm getting new engine, should ship in 10 days (Arbitration Svcs guy I have been working with is telling his manager to put in the order) for my 2005 G35c. Only 1 week between calls (only 2 calls), but then again, I'm sure there is no room to argue as my car flat out failed the 1qt per 1,000 mi test. Arbitration Svcs contact is fully aware of, and will be sure to have the V2 ordered and installed. I told him they will not fool me as I know the part number, and will be checking at the dealer, in person. He confirmed it was a piston ring problem, but didn't know the details.

Asked about Cats, exhaust replacement and inspection (they will replace if very dirty and subject to premature failure), and also asked about extending warranty to 100k miles on powertrain, explaining the reasoning that essentially the powertrain is 'new' and shoudl get the original 70k miles. Keeping fingers crossed on that. I will go thru BBB if I don't get it, and will refuse to take delivery of my car once they install new engine.

Rather than searching back, I know the part number for the revised Japanese hand-built engine ends in MZ for the 350Z. I asked if it's the same engine, and NNA said it was the same engine, although he thought that it was a different part number to track which ones are going into Z's and which are going into G's. Does anyone have the part number I should look for (assumign I don't get a Z's engine) for the revised hand-built for my G??

I will keep this thread updated with my progress for those that are having the consumption problem.

 

My dealer is straight up lying abour their readings and such, I've got pictures of dipstick to prove it etc... what can I do as a consumer? I dotn want my fiance driving a car that may be prone to early engine failure? What is NNA and how do I get ahold of them.

 

in 2k mi with their consumption test it was ABOVE full, and then 2kmi later, its below empty and they told me they read it and it was 3/4 full. I am sick of getting the shaft here

 

FOR THE RECORD: what is the OFFICIAL part number for the revised, V2, hand-built motor from Japan??

Does it end in 9 or 1. I understand on the Z forums tha the part number for the hand-built motor ends in a Z for the 350 Z, so, following naming convention, since a 9 looks like a "g" that it could be a 9. Although, Hector's part number ended in a 1 I see.

Another approach would be to have the dealer's svc dept pull up the rev-up engine in their parts order screen, and as long as it is NOT that part number, you are okay. I understand that the hand-builts are not in the inventory, and thus if your dealer were to put the part number in to try to order one, it would say 'contact Nissan' on their screen.

This would be very helpful to track down for all of those who are expecting new engines per NNA's promise and wanted to go and check on install day that they were getting the right (fixed) engine....

 

Alright, just got a call from consumer affairs at infiniti and my V2 is on its way from Japan (apparently). I posted a while back, but I was 4 qts low at 5000 miles. Then 1 qt low at 6000, 1.5 quarts at 7000, and 1 quart at 8000. I'm now at 10,000 miles and still waiting for my motor, but at least i finally got called. I will see what the new part number is as soon as I get the call from my dealership to bring my car in. I'll keep you guys posted.

 

I'd trust Hector's number. A member on another thread updated that his VQ came in and replacement starting soon.
I'm sure when his all done, he'll confirm with his number. He watches this thread as well.

-ronnyek-
One of my biggest fears with Dealer and OC testing. DISHONESTY. Trying not to be pananoid, but you just confirmed my thought as not being that.
Hard to self check if they not pulling fast one when they mark/seal entry/exit points of oil. If that compromised by consumer, test voided.
Go to different Dealer and do test with them.
File complaint with Inf Consumer Affairs against that dishonest Dealer. Thats very Effed up what they did.

 

Mitchelm, go physically actually look at the engine. Grab the sticker from the box and keep it as the record of your new V2 engine. It is most likely the only evidence you will have that they put a revised engine in, as the part number is not posted anywhere in infiniti's system. I believe it should end in a 6 or 9 (ends in a Z for the 350's engine), which makes sense, as a 6 looks like a capital G, and a 9 looks like a "g". Also, ask them if the part number is ON the engine itself, and where, so those of us can look and just check everything out before and after our engines are installed if possible.