Engine cutting out when cold
#1
Engine cutting out when cold
Will be taking into dealer to have this looked at...
Now that hot weather is here, I noticed a few weeks ago, that when it's hot outside and the car has been sitting a while (cold) and I pull off into slow stop and go traffic (15-20mph) the engine pulls then cuts out, pulls then cuts out, not to the point off cutting off but close, it only seems to do this when trying to slowly accerate at low speeds (20mph).
After about 2-3 minutes once the engines warmed up it dosen't do it anymore until the car sits for a few hours and cools off.
No check engine light. No engine noises other than it reving, then losing power, reving, losing power... etc. When it starts doing this I can give it a little more gas and it revs up and runs ok.
Anyone have any idea what could be causing this?
Now that hot weather is here, I noticed a few weeks ago, that when it's hot outside and the car has been sitting a while (cold) and I pull off into slow stop and go traffic (15-20mph) the engine pulls then cuts out, pulls then cuts out, not to the point off cutting off but close, it only seems to do this when trying to slowly accerate at low speeds (20mph).
After about 2-3 minutes once the engines warmed up it dosen't do it anymore until the car sits for a few hours and cools off.
No check engine light. No engine noises other than it reving, then losing power, reving, losing power... etc. When it starts doing this I can give it a little more gas and it revs up and runs ok.
Anyone have any idea what could be causing this?
#4
#6
See if this fixes it, let the car warm up at least to where the RPMs drop below 1k before driving.
I have the same issue and I noticed that it would only happen when I drove the car before/while it was still in the high RPM warm up mode.
I posted my reasoning behind this in a different post about 2 months ago but someone was able to put it into simpler terms. When the car is first started the CPU and engine are running at an input of ‘B’ higher than normal. When you step on the accelerator you start at point ‘A’, you would expect to get power right away however your cars drive by wire is already at point ‘B’ so you need to pass point ‘B’ before you start to get additional power.
The reverse is also true, if you are driving and your throttle input is at point ‘C’ (you pressing on the gas) then you slow down to point ‘A’ then press on the accelerator again you will not get additional power until the engine and CPU input passes point ‘B’. Once the car warms up then the false base line of point ‘B’ goes away.
I have the same issue and I noticed that it would only happen when I drove the car before/while it was still in the high RPM warm up mode.
I posted my reasoning behind this in a different post about 2 months ago but someone was able to put it into simpler terms. When the car is first started the CPU and engine are running at an input of ‘B’ higher than normal. When you step on the accelerator you start at point ‘A’, you would expect to get power right away however your cars drive by wire is already at point ‘B’ so you need to pass point ‘B’ before you start to get additional power.
The reverse is also true, if you are driving and your throttle input is at point ‘C’ (you pressing on the gas) then you slow down to point ‘A’ then press on the accelerator again you will not get additional power until the engine and CPU input passes point ‘B’. Once the car warms up then the false base line of point ‘B’ goes away.
Last edited by 03FXer; 06-05-2007 at 06:37 PM.
#7
Originally Posted by 03FXer
See if this fixes it, let the car warm up at least to where the RPMs drop below 1k before driving.
I have the same issue and I noticed that it would only happen when I drove the car before/while it was still in the high RPM warm up mode.
I posted my reasoning behind this in a different post about 2 months ago but someone was able to put it into simpler terms. When the car is first started the CPU and engine are running at an input of ‘B’ higher than normal. When you step on the accelerator you start at point ‘A’, you would expect to get power right away however your cars drive by wire is already at point ‘B’ so you need to pass point ‘B’ before you start to get additional power.
The reverse is also true, if you are driving and your throttle input is at point ‘C’ (you pressing on the gas) then you slow down to point ‘A’ then press on the accelerator again you will not get additional power until the engine and CPU input passes point ‘B’. Once the car warms up then the false base line of point ‘B’ goes away.
I have the same issue and I noticed that it would only happen when I drove the car before/while it was still in the high RPM warm up mode.
I posted my reasoning behind this in a different post about 2 months ago but someone was able to put it into simpler terms. When the car is first started the CPU and engine are running at an input of ‘B’ higher than normal. When you step on the accelerator you start at point ‘A’, you would expect to get power right away however your cars drive by wire is already at point ‘B’ so you need to pass point ‘B’ before you start to get additional power.
The reverse is also true, if you are driving and your throttle input is at point ‘C’ (you pressing on the gas) then you slow down to point ‘A’ then press on the accelerator again you will not get additional power until the engine and CPU input passes point ‘B’. Once the car warms up then the false base line of point ‘B’ goes away.
Trending Topics
#8
#9
#13
#14