Drivetrain Fluids Drain and Fill
#1
08-14-2023, 03:10 PM
Drivetrain Fluids Drain and Fill
Hi all, I have a 2007 (V36) Infiniti G35x (AWD). Before anything, I want to say I have searched through the forums and am seeing a lot of conflicting info about the process as well as the proper fluids.
Im coming up on 120k miles and the last time these fluids were done was around 85k miles, Im not the original owner so I dont know what fluids they were.
Im thinking about attempting the job myself, I try to do all my own work, brakes, oil, coolant drain and fills, axles, etc, so I have some experience under the car
I just cant find what fluids I should be using for the front and rear diff, transfer case, and transmission, as well as how much fluid I need to buy. The amount seems to very between threads too, so thats more confusion for me.
Do i need gaskets/washers? I also was looking at the service kits on z1, but their fluid doesnt necesarily agree with the service manuals reccomended fluid, and I dont wanna mess something up by putting the wrong fluid or incorrect amount.
Im coming up on 120k miles and the last time these fluids were done was around 85k miles, Im not the original owner so I dont know what fluids they were.
Im thinking about attempting the job myself, I try to do all my own work, brakes, oil, coolant drain and fills, axles, etc, so I have some experience under the car
I just cant find what fluids I should be using for the front and rear diff, transfer case, and transmission, as well as how much fluid I need to buy. The amount seems to very between threads too, so thats more confusion for me.
Do i need gaskets/washers? I also was looking at the service kits on z1, but their fluid doesnt necesarily agree with the service manuals reccomended fluid, and I dont wanna mess something up by putting the wrong fluid or incorrect amount.
#2
08-15-2023, 11:35 AM
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Washington State
Posts: 14,817
Received 2,469 Likes
on
2,161 Posts
Coupe 6MT Premium RAS
Engine you can run either 5w-30 or 10w-30. If it gets below 0F run 5w-30, if it gets above 100F run 10w-30. Conventional or synthetic doesn't really matter, just depends on what oil change interval you want. Use a quality filter, it's as important as the oil. There is a crush washer for the drain plug, part number 11026-JA00A
Transmission is just a drain/fill, takes just under 4 quarts, use only genuine Nissan Matic-J or Matic-S. You probably won't find Matic-J anymore, it's the older fluid. Drain plug uses the same crush washer as the oil drain plug. Make sure to check your transmission fluid level once the transmission is hot and top off as needed.
Transfer case takes a little more than a quart of Matic D fluid, they only sell this in quarts not pints, so buy two, you will have a lot leftover. You can also use dextron 3 ATF fluid if you want, the transfer case isn't picky like the transmission is. Uses the same sealing washers as the front/rear differential.
Front and rear differential use 80w-90, I prefer to put Redline 75w-90 oil in the diff, make sure that whatever you use is GL5 oil though and not GL4 (GL4 is for manual transmissions, not differentials). Front diff holds about 1.5 pints, rear diff is 3 pints. The drain plug washer isn't technically reusable, it's not a true crush washer though. I'm usually lazy and just reuse them unless I have replacements on hand, if you do reuse it just be sure to not flip it around backwards. Once it has sealed up one direction it will leak if you flip it the other way. They're cheap though so you should probably just replace yours. Nissan part number 11026-4N200, same one for front/rear diff and 6MT transmissions.
Brakes are easiest if you get yourself a Motive bleeder and the adapter cap for Nissan. Basically it's like a little round-up spray bottle, you fill with brake fluid, seal the cap to the brake fluid reservoir, pump up the bottle to 10psi (there's a gauge on it) then all you have to do is open a brake bleed screw (put a little clear plastic hose on it to drain into your fluid catch pan) and it will continuously dump fluid from the pressure you have created in the system. No need to have a second person pump the brakes and they work MUCH better than the vacuum pump style. These cars use a non-standard bleed order that you must follow, rear right, front left, rear left, front right. DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY BEFORE BLEEDING! Or the ABS computer will not be happy. Use a DOT3 fluid, I prefer Valvoline DOT3/4. Don't use a DOT5 fluid, it's not "better" for daily driver use and it has a significantly shorter maintenance interval.
Coolant you're probably better off just having Nissan do that one, a lot of people STRUGGLE to get the system properly burped, if you do want to do it yourself it's a drain plug on the bottom of the radiator, reusable/internal sealing o-ring so just take off the radiator cap, open the drain plug, once it's drained tighten up the plug.
Now here's where it gets tricky, my preferred method is to use a coolant vacuum, you draw the coolant system down to -25 psi with a tool like OEMTOOLS 24444 and a normal air compressor. It doesn't need to be a huge air compressor either, a standard small hotdog or pancake one will be fine but it will take a little longer to draw down vacuum. Once system is at about -20 to -25psi shut off the air, then take the coolant fill tube, put it into your gallon of coolant and SLOWLY open the valve for it. It will suck up 1 gallon of coolant in LITERALLY SECONDS so be ready to shut that valve off again to switch to another coolant jug.
I'm sure there are youtube videos on how to use those tools, they cost about $100, they work amazing.
The other method is the one people usually struggle with. Open both coolant purge valves on the heater core hose (I think the V36 has one on each side of the engine), pour in coolant into the radiator VERY VERY SLOWLY, literally the slower you can add coolant to the better chances of not trapping bubbles, once it starts to pour out of the purge valves put their caps back on and continue to pour coolant into the radiator as slow as you can, the maximum rate of adding coolant should be roughly 60 seconds to add 1 gallon of coolant, slower is better.
After using either of those methods to refill coolant start the car, turn your heater to max heat and the highest fan speed. Once the engine is up to operating temp go for a short drive, you won't be blowing hot air from the heater core yet. I prefer to wide open throttle from a stop, speed up to 30mph, then slam on the brakes hard (almost triggering the ABS). This throws the weight of the coolant around inside the engine and normally that's the point you will suddenly be blowing hot air from the heater. Sometimes you have to do that twice, not usually. Pay attention to your temperature gauge, it's easy to overheat the engine if there's trapped air.
After your heater is blowing hot air drive back to shop/home, put a fan in front of the car to cool off the radiator quickly (about 10minutes) then remove the cap and top off the radiator as well as the reservoir.
Transmission is just a drain/fill, takes just under 4 quarts, use only genuine Nissan Matic-J or Matic-S. You probably won't find Matic-J anymore, it's the older fluid. Drain plug uses the same crush washer as the oil drain plug. Make sure to check your transmission fluid level once the transmission is hot and top off as needed.
Transfer case takes a little more than a quart of Matic D fluid, they only sell this in quarts not pints, so buy two, you will have a lot leftover. You can also use dextron 3 ATF fluid if you want, the transfer case isn't picky like the transmission is. Uses the same sealing washers as the front/rear differential.
Front and rear differential use 80w-90, I prefer to put Redline 75w-90 oil in the diff, make sure that whatever you use is GL5 oil though and not GL4 (GL4 is for manual transmissions, not differentials). Front diff holds about 1.5 pints, rear diff is 3 pints. The drain plug washer isn't technically reusable, it's not a true crush washer though. I'm usually lazy and just reuse them unless I have replacements on hand, if you do reuse it just be sure to not flip it around backwards. Once it has sealed up one direction it will leak if you flip it the other way. They're cheap though so you should probably just replace yours. Nissan part number 11026-4N200, same one for front/rear diff and 6MT transmissions.
Brakes are easiest if you get yourself a Motive bleeder and the adapter cap for Nissan. Basically it's like a little round-up spray bottle, you fill with brake fluid, seal the cap to the brake fluid reservoir, pump up the bottle to 10psi (there's a gauge on it) then all you have to do is open a brake bleed screw (put a little clear plastic hose on it to drain into your fluid catch pan) and it will continuously dump fluid from the pressure you have created in the system. No need to have a second person pump the brakes and they work MUCH better than the vacuum pump style. These cars use a non-standard bleed order that you must follow, rear right, front left, rear left, front right. DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY BEFORE BLEEDING! Or the ABS computer will not be happy. Use a DOT3 fluid, I prefer Valvoline DOT3/4. Don't use a DOT5 fluid, it's not "better" for daily driver use and it has a significantly shorter maintenance interval.
Coolant you're probably better off just having Nissan do that one, a lot of people STRUGGLE to get the system properly burped, if you do want to do it yourself it's a drain plug on the bottom of the radiator, reusable/internal sealing o-ring so just take off the radiator cap, open the drain plug, once it's drained tighten up the plug.
Now here's where it gets tricky, my preferred method is to use a coolant vacuum, you draw the coolant system down to -25 psi with a tool like OEMTOOLS 24444 and a normal air compressor. It doesn't need to be a huge air compressor either, a standard small hotdog or pancake one will be fine but it will take a little longer to draw down vacuum. Once system is at about -20 to -25psi shut off the air, then take the coolant fill tube, put it into your gallon of coolant and SLOWLY open the valve for it. It will suck up 1 gallon of coolant in LITERALLY SECONDS so be ready to shut that valve off again to switch to another coolant jug.
I'm sure there are youtube videos on how to use those tools, they cost about $100, they work amazing.
The other method is the one people usually struggle with. Open both coolant purge valves on the heater core hose (I think the V36 has one on each side of the engine), pour in coolant into the radiator VERY VERY SLOWLY, literally the slower you can add coolant to the better chances of not trapping bubbles, once it starts to pour out of the purge valves put their caps back on and continue to pour coolant into the radiator as slow as you can, the maximum rate of adding coolant should be roughly 60 seconds to add 1 gallon of coolant, slower is better.
After using either of those methods to refill coolant start the car, turn your heater to max heat and the highest fan speed. Once the engine is up to operating temp go for a short drive, you won't be blowing hot air from the heater core yet. I prefer to wide open throttle from a stop, speed up to 30mph, then slam on the brakes hard (almost triggering the ABS). This throws the weight of the coolant around inside the engine and normally that's the point you will suddenly be blowing hot air from the heater. Sometimes you have to do that twice, not usually. Pay attention to your temperature gauge, it's easy to overheat the engine if there's trapped air.
After your heater is blowing hot air drive back to shop/home, put a fan in front of the car to cool off the radiator quickly (about 10minutes) then remove the cap and top off the radiator as well as the reservoir.
The following 5 users liked this post by cleric670:
99zx2turd (08-25-2023),
g35xdriver (04-02-2024),
HoserG35 (08-15-2023),
Maine35X (08-18-2023),
Urbanengineer (08-16-2023)
#3
08-16-2023, 06:10 AM
Engine you can run either 5w-30 or 10w-30. If it gets below 0F run 5w-30, if it gets above 100F run 10w-30. Conventional or synthetic doesn't really matter, just depends on what oil change interval you want. Use a quality filter, it's as important as the oil. There is a crush washer for the drain plug, part number 11026-JA00A
Transmission is just a drain/fill, takes just under 4 quarts, use only genuine Nissan Matic-J or Matic-S. You probably won't find Matic-J anymore, it's the older fluid. Drain plug uses the same crush washer as the oil drain plug. Make sure to check your transmission fluid level once the transmission is hot and top off as needed.
Transfer case takes a little more than a quart of Matic D fluid, they only sell this in quarts not pints, so buy two, you will have a lot leftover. You can also use dextron 3 ATF fluid if you want, the transfer case isn't picky like the transmission is. Uses the same sealing washers as the front/rear differential.
Front and rear differential use 80w-90, I prefer to put Redline 75w-90 oil in the diff, make sure that whatever you use is GL5 oil though and not GL4 (GL4 is for manual transmissions, not differentials). Front diff holds about 1.5 pints, rear diff is 3 pints. The drain plug washer isn't technically reusable, it's not a true crush washer though. I'm usually lazy and just reuse them unless I have replacements on hand, if you do reuse it just be sure to not flip it around backwards. Once it has sealed up one direction it will leak if you flip it the other way. They're cheap though so you should probably just replace yours. Nissan part number 11026-4N200, same one for front/rear diff and 6MT transmissions.
Brakes are easiest if you get yourself a Motive bleeder and the adapter cap for Nissan. Basically it's like a little round-up spray bottle, you fill with brake fluid, seal the cap to the brake fluid reservoir, pump up the bottle to 10psi (there's a gauge on it) then all you have to do is open a brake bleed screw (put a little clear plastic hose on it to drain into your fluid catch pan) and it will continuously dump fluid from the pressure you have created in the system. No need to have a second person pump the brakes and they work MUCH better than the vacuum pump style. These cars use a non-standard bleed order that you must follow, rear right, front left, rear left, front right. DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY BEFORE BLEEDING! Or the ABS computer will not be happy. Use a DOT3 fluid, I prefer Valvoline DOT3/4. Don't use a DOT5 fluid, it's not "better" for daily driver use and it has a significantly shorter maintenance interval.
Coolant you're probably better off just having Nissan do that one, a lot of people STRUGGLE to get the system properly burped, if you do want to do it yourself it's a drain plug on the bottom of the radiator, reusable/internal sealing o-ring so just take off the radiator cap, open the drain plug, once it's drained tighten up the plug.
Now here's where it gets tricky, my preferred method is to use a coolant vacuum, you draw the coolant system down to -25 psi with a tool like OEMTOOLS 24444 and a normal air compressor. It doesn't need to be a huge air compressor either, a standard small hotdog or pancake one will be fine but it will take a little longer to draw down vacuum. Once system is at about -20 to -25psi shut off the air, then take the coolant fill tube, put it into your gallon of coolant and SLOWLY open the valve for it. It will suck up 1 gallon of coolant in LITERALLY SECONDS so be ready to shut that valve off again to switch to another coolant jug.
I'm sure there are youtube videos on how to use those tools, they cost about $100, they work amazing.
The other method is the one people usually struggle with. Open both coolant purge valves on the heater core hose (I think the V36 has one on each side of the engine), pour in coolant into the radiator VERY VERY SLOWLY, literally the slower you can add coolant to the better chances of not trapping bubbles, once it starts to pour out of the purge valves put their caps back on and continue to pour coolant into the radiator as slow as you can, the maximum rate of adding coolant should be roughly 60 seconds to add 1 gallon of coolant, slower is better.
After using either of those methods to refill coolant start the car, turn your heater to max heat and the highest fan speed. Once the engine is up to operating temp go for a short drive, you won't be blowing hot air from the heater core yet. I prefer to wide open throttle from a stop, speed up to 30mph, then slam on the brakes hard (almost triggering the ABS). This throws the weight of the coolant around inside the engine and normally that's the point you will suddenly be blowing hot air from the heater. Sometimes you have to do that twice, not usually. Pay attention to your temperature gauge, it's easy to overheat the engine if there's trapped air.
After your heater is blowing hot air drive back to shop/home, put a fan in front of the car to cool off the radiator quickly (about 10minutes) then remove the cap and top off the radiator as well as the reservoir.
Transmission is just a drain/fill, takes just under 4 quarts, use only genuine Nissan Matic-J or Matic-S. You probably won't find Matic-J anymore, it's the older fluid. Drain plug uses the same crush washer as the oil drain plug. Make sure to check your transmission fluid level once the transmission is hot and top off as needed.
Transfer case takes a little more than a quart of Matic D fluid, they only sell this in quarts not pints, so buy two, you will have a lot leftover. You can also use dextron 3 ATF fluid if you want, the transfer case isn't picky like the transmission is. Uses the same sealing washers as the front/rear differential.
Front and rear differential use 80w-90, I prefer to put Redline 75w-90 oil in the diff, make sure that whatever you use is GL5 oil though and not GL4 (GL4 is for manual transmissions, not differentials). Front diff holds about 1.5 pints, rear diff is 3 pints. The drain plug washer isn't technically reusable, it's not a true crush washer though. I'm usually lazy and just reuse them unless I have replacements on hand, if you do reuse it just be sure to not flip it around backwards. Once it has sealed up one direction it will leak if you flip it the other way. They're cheap though so you should probably just replace yours. Nissan part number 11026-4N200, same one for front/rear diff and 6MT transmissions.
Brakes are easiest if you get yourself a Motive bleeder and the adapter cap for Nissan. Basically it's like a little round-up spray bottle, you fill with brake fluid, seal the cap to the brake fluid reservoir, pump up the bottle to 10psi (there's a gauge on it) then all you have to do is open a brake bleed screw (put a little clear plastic hose on it to drain into your fluid catch pan) and it will continuously dump fluid from the pressure you have created in the system. No need to have a second person pump the brakes and they work MUCH better than the vacuum pump style. These cars use a non-standard bleed order that you must follow, rear right, front left, rear left, front right. DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY BEFORE BLEEDING! Or the ABS computer will not be happy. Use a DOT3 fluid, I prefer Valvoline DOT3/4. Don't use a DOT5 fluid, it's not "better" for daily driver use and it has a significantly shorter maintenance interval.
Coolant you're probably better off just having Nissan do that one, a lot of people STRUGGLE to get the system properly burped, if you do want to do it yourself it's a drain plug on the bottom of the radiator, reusable/internal sealing o-ring so just take off the radiator cap, open the drain plug, once it's drained tighten up the plug.
Now here's where it gets tricky, my preferred method is to use a coolant vacuum, you draw the coolant system down to -25 psi with a tool like OEMTOOLS 24444 and a normal air compressor. It doesn't need to be a huge air compressor either, a standard small hotdog or pancake one will be fine but it will take a little longer to draw down vacuum. Once system is at about -20 to -25psi shut off the air, then take the coolant fill tube, put it into your gallon of coolant and SLOWLY open the valve for it. It will suck up 1 gallon of coolant in LITERALLY SECONDS so be ready to shut that valve off again to switch to another coolant jug.
I'm sure there are youtube videos on how to use those tools, they cost about $100, they work amazing.
The other method is the one people usually struggle with. Open both coolant purge valves on the heater core hose (I think the V36 has one on each side of the engine), pour in coolant into the radiator VERY VERY SLOWLY, literally the slower you can add coolant to the better chances of not trapping bubbles, once it starts to pour out of the purge valves put their caps back on and continue to pour coolant into the radiator as slow as you can, the maximum rate of adding coolant should be roughly 60 seconds to add 1 gallon of coolant, slower is better.
After using either of those methods to refill coolant start the car, turn your heater to max heat and the highest fan speed. Once the engine is up to operating temp go for a short drive, you won't be blowing hot air from the heater core yet. I prefer to wide open throttle from a stop, speed up to 30mph, then slam on the brakes hard (almost triggering the ABS). This throws the weight of the coolant around inside the engine and normally that's the point you will suddenly be blowing hot air from the heater. Sometimes you have to do that twice, not usually. Pay attention to your temperature gauge, it's easy to overheat the engine if there's trapped air.
After your heater is blowing hot air drive back to shop/home, put a fan in front of the car to cool off the radiator quickly (about 10minutes) then remove the cap and top off the radiator as well as the reservoir.
I am using almost all of this, but also intend to use a swirl pot to remove trapped air. I’m wondering if I can get away without having to move car to get hot air.
#4
08-17-2023, 08:22 PM
Registered User
I replaced all the coolant hoses listed here and also added two Z1 bleeders. It wasn’t hard to bleed air out with car on front ramps
https://g35driver.com/forums/v36-eng...ml#post7197433
https://g35driver.com/forums/v36-eng...ml#post7197433
#5
08-17-2023, 08:26 PM
Registered User
No crush washer on transfer case drain.. use small amount of RTV.. that is how mine was as well
https://g35driver.com/forums/v36-diy...uid-drain.html
https://g35driver.com/forums/v36-diy...uid-drain.html
The following users liked this post:
Urbanengineer (08-17-2023)
#6
08-18-2023, 11:54 AM
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Washington State
Posts: 14,817
Received 2,469 Likes
on
2,161 Posts
Coupe 6MT Premium RAS
#7
08-25-2023, 11:33 AM
Transmission is just a drain/fill, takes just under 4 quarts, use only genuine Nissan Matic-J or Matic-S. You probably won't find Matic-J anymore, it's the older fluid. Drain plug uses the same crush washer as the oil drain plug. Make sure to check your transmission fluid level once the transmission is hot and top off as needed.
Trending Topics
#9
08-26-2023, 03:42 PM
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Washington State
Posts: 14,817
Received 2,469 Likes
on
2,161 Posts
Coupe 6MT Premium RAS
The following 2 users liked this post by cleric670:
treacherous (08-29-2023),
Urbanengineer (08-29-2023)
#10
09-14-2023, 11:19 PM
Engine could also run 0w-40. I've run the "german castrol" (0w-30) when it was available. As for diffs, I run 80w-90 Amsoil gear lube.
I'd run OEM fluids in the transmission and transfer case. Same with the coolant. Yes running OEM fluids will cost more but over the long haul, it's penny's, per mile, if that.
I'd run OEM fluids in the transmission and transfer case. Same with the coolant. Yes running OEM fluids will cost more but over the long haul, it's penny's, per mile, if that.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post