Finally pulled out my two rear bearing/hub assembly.

It was harder than I thought, mainly because breaking the torque on such tight areas as a pain in the a$$. The rust also made separating the rotors and the hub really difficult.

For those of you who have high mileage/older G35's, which I suspect is most of us if our bearings are going bad, I recommend you have somebody helping you out. I don't think I would have been able to do it myself for the above mentioned reasons.

I did it the "correct" way, which was accessing the 4 bolts behind the hub without pulling apart the bearing. You NEED someone to help you out in this part. I don't see how it's possible for one person to hold back the shaft (which requires a moderate amount of force to hold it back) and simultaneously use a torque wrench with a swivel socket to break to torque on the 4 bolts.

I'm heading out tomorrow morning to have my bearings separated and pressed in to the hub at a reputable Infiniti repair shop.

Putting everything back should be a piece of cake (at least compared to the removal process).

It's not THAT hard... the hardest part is just loosening up the parts and bolts.

Oh, and I did remove one end of the camber arm for better clearance. Nothing else suspension-wise was removed.

 

In My car there is a lots of problem acquring and no idea what to do....

 

Your car may be bearing a problem to you...

 

So regarding the bearing siezing in the spindle....

short of pulling the spindle off and pressing the bearing out, a slide hammer should do the job of getting it out??

 

Some have had success with slide hammers but it did absolutely nothing for me except split the bearing in two- leaving half the bearing still rusted solid to the axle.

I'd suggest taking the axle off and possibly hammering the hub assembly out from the back.

 

Ok, just to confirm...

Here's the front bearing (AWD) and hub. I'm basicallyu going to press the hub in until i bottom it out on the bearing face right? Makes sense to me, but just want a backup confirmation






Edit: got my answer...the flange on the hub does get pressed all the way in to the bearing face.

 

Hey so is this a complete assem. with the bearing pressed into the hub already. I read someone on here said that purchased it .So how is it holding up and is the bearing/hub a complete assem. ? If so seems like the way to go.

Thank you

Precision Hub Assemblies - Hub Assembly
Part # 512346
List $64.99 Each

 

Doubt it.

Everything if seen calling it a hub assembly has been one or the other...not both.

Vie only seen them sold separate, bearing and hub, except 2wd front. Everything else you will need to press.

I just pressed my front awd bearings and hubs today....was easy. 10 mins worth of work

 

Btw, just to add to this thread.


I ordered Timken front bearings for my X and pleasantly discovered them to be OEM NTN bearings in a Timken box. The box stated the bearings were not manufactured by Timken, but redistributed by them.

So, if you google these part numbers, you can find cheaper prices.

Front:
AWD: BM500013 (bearing only)
2wd : HA590027 (bearing and hub assey)

Rear
All: BM500006 (bearing only)

 

Hey, does anybody know the part numbers for the axle nut and the seal, or if the seal needs to be replaced? Thanks. Great thread, BTW.

 

I just did mine. Was pretty simple but i did remove the axle shaft.

 

When I'm driving around 30-40 mph , my friend tells me that the rear driver's side wheel is wobbling/shaking. It is fine rolling or going at lower speeds.

could it be the wheel bearing?

what might it be? just wanted some thoughts before I get raped by the mechanics' prices.

thank you!

04 g35 coupe
~56000 miles

 

just replaced rear bearings. this DIY is perfect. didn't have one problem.

 

My driver side rear bearing has officially failed now for the 3rd time. The previous 3 times i went to my dealer for while the car was under warranty now that i am at 84k miles on the car the dealer wants $873+tax to fix it.

I let the dealer know that i do not agree that the same problem happened on the same wheel that they had to fix 3x prior and the same axle that had the ticking noise on 2x. They told me its due to my suspension. However I am skeptical that the same thing can happen on the same wheel 3 times over while all other bearings are fine.

What troubles me most is that the first time the bearing went bad, i drove on it for a while before getting it fixed. I specifically asked the dealer the last time they fixed the issue if the axle could have been damaged somehow or if the hub needed to be replaced and they said that all is fine and only bearing went bad.

I am about to order the parts to get this done on my own. My questions is, can the hub get warped/deformed if the car was driven with the bad bearing? also can the axle be damaged somehow due to this?

Is there one brand thats better then the other when it comes to buying bearings or are they all the same?

 

All the same.


The OEM bearings from Infiniti are NTN brand. The Timken bearings are also NTN brand.

Get whichever is selling the cheapest. rock auto has the rear bearings for $45 each.




I think you are good with the axle, but I would replace the hub. Depending on how bad the bearing got, there's a chance the hub deformed slightly due to vibration. It's hard to actually measure this. Also, make sure the wheel is perfectly balanced as vibration from an out of balance wheel can kill bearings