Wheels & Tires Grabbing the road and stopping.

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Old Sep 15, 2013 | 08:21 AM
  #6136  
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Why dont they just make them 2 piece?? Welding the 3 piece wheels kinda defeats the purpose of having a 3 piece wheel.. I thought the reason they didnt weld them was so a lip could be replaced if it gets damaged and not having to replace the whole wheel??
 
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Old Sep 15, 2013 | 02:08 PM
  #6137  
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True that.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2013 | 08:16 PM
  #6138  
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I'm sure there is a reason they do it....but i think it makes it a real pain for those who wanna swap out faces and barrels
 
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Old Sep 15, 2013 | 08:20 PM
  #6139  
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The only reason i can think is that they dont want people taking them apart for safety reasons..
 
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Old Sep 15, 2013 | 08:23 PM
  #6140  
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yeah and since they are pretty meticulous on quality control that would be understandable
 
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Old Sep 15, 2013 | 08:44 PM
  #6141  
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Yeah they dont want people rebuilding wheels, then if they fall apart people try to say its works fault and its their faces that people will see in the pics..
 
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Old Sep 15, 2013 | 09:58 PM
  #6142  
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Makes sense.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2013 | 10:49 PM
  #6143  
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haha yeah they don't wanna turn into companies like vossen
 
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Old Sep 16, 2013 | 10:19 AM
  #6144  
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I have a question about my front fitment. My setup is stance coils, 20x9 +15 front, 225/35/20 tire. When im pulling into a parking lot/driveway/ or just a bump in a turn im rubbing. I raised the car up just a little bit to help it out some, but I feel that my setup isn't very aggressive and Im surprised its rubbing. I have 15mm spacers I wanted to put on, but rubbing at +15 already would be a nightmare with the spacers on at +0. Front fenders are not rolled or anything. Just looking for some help on how I can get my front to not rub without and with the spacers.

Ive read that taking the screws out of the liner will help. I tried that, and it didn't work, I was literally hitting the actual inside of the fender, do I really need a roll/pull on the front at +15? Pics below.

This pic was pulling into a driveway that isn't even all that steep.
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This is the height to where im at now that I raised it about 1/4 inch.
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any help is appreciated. Thanks.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2013 | 10:21 AM
  #6145  
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^Flattening the fenders might help
 
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Old Sep 16, 2013 | 02:39 PM
  #6146  
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yeah man....everyone who is lowered around 2 in and even semi-aggressive specs will rub when they turn the wheel all the way and go up a driveway or hit a dip....for the most part there is no way to help it without getting smaller tires or putting in more camber
 
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Old Sep 16, 2013 | 03:12 PM
  #6147  
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Originally Posted by Drew113
I'm sure there is a reason they do it....but i think it makes it a real pain for those who wanna swap out faces and barrels
That is the only thing I can think off. Usually barrels are pretty universal. Many people refinishing may use a lower quality barrel to save money, then failure would give Work a bad name.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2013 | 04:10 PM
  #6148  
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yeah i know alot of guys here in cali do that....use the real work faces and hardware but at least the inners or outers are not authentic Work barrels
 
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Old Sep 16, 2013 | 04:57 PM
  #6149  
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When I refinished my Asanti wheels, they wanted 400 dollars per lip from manufacture. I bought all 4 brand new 40 hole universal lips off the interwebz for 350.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2013 | 06:04 PM
  #6150  
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Ok so can anyone give me a rough estimate on how much it would be to split 3p welded wheels and how much I could get inner barrels for? I know it may be much. Wheels are work meisters.
 
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