Finally riding season once again. I really do enjoy dailying the G though!

 

A non-mechanic older coworker just picked up this this ls swapped miata as an autocross toy and has zero interest in using the nitrous kit, or spending the time to uninstall it and sell it on Ebay. Gonna offer him $250 for all the nitrous stuff as well as fixing a few little problems... I bet he'll take it.

15 lb bottle, purge, WOT switch, NX Proton wet kit (35-150) shot with extra backup fuel solenoid, plus likely extras he doesn't even know about since he didn't build it. Gonna run a 50 shot at first, that combined with the 3.7 diff I'm gonna install at the same time should make for a pretty fun combo that won't blow my motor and will be able to spray all day long. Thoughts before I pull the trigger?

 

Its such a good feeling when u hop on the bike and have that instant power. But then the G feels so good when u sit inside after been riding an uncomfortable bike for an hour lol.

 

How much does nitrous cost in your area? Id honestly get it on my car if it were cheaper....but I just cant see myself refilling at $7/pound.

 

@cswlightning nothing wrong with nitrous if it's used sparingly. The cost can add up quickly if you're on it constantly.

Depending on what kind of electronics it has you will want to get a progressive controller for it though, Nitrous Express has a really easy one that's just got a manual adjustment **** that goes from instant to like 4 seconds progression. Something around 1.5-2 seconds ramp up usually feels good and doesn't break traction or jar the hell out of the drivetrain.

You'll definitely want something to view A/F ratio though, and ideally a computer to shut it down if you start to lean out.

I also STRONGLY recommend you use new A/F sensors, older sensors can develop a little bit of a delay which will definitely cause problems.

 

Lookin all nice n śhit.

 

Dropped down a size to 19’s. They are surprisingly lighter than my previous setup.

 

^^^

I think 19's are the way to go on these cars. 20's just look too big on a car this small.

Also, your wheels would look killer with a white lip.

Edit: is your car white or silver? Hard to tell from those pics.

 

Yeah, I’m definitely digging them; that’s for sure.

Anyway, the car is silver. (LP)

I’m wanting more un-sprung weight/mass reduction.

Just waiting on Z1 to get back with me in regards to some regular slotted two-piece rotors instead of their “sprinkle” slotted.

 

Thanks for the input cleric! So you think the progressive would be necessary to avoid the big pop or just good for traction and driveline shock? Remember I'm probably going to keep it to 75 shot max, no tune or anything but colder plugs.

As far as A/F sensing, would looking at the O2 sensor data and ensuring its positive at WOT (currently. 85) be enough for safety? In theory if the jetting is correct hitting NOS won't mess up your AFRs in a wet system.

Currently planning on running just a WOT switch, fuel pressure switch, and a big red button for safety... I'm still poor but this deal was too good to pass up for the HP gain... Or even just having a bottle in the back with a purge lol

 

Mostly it comes down to you just not knowing how much life is left in that O2 sensor before it DOES start to cause problems, and with FI of any kind those problems could mean a toasted motor. Progressive controller for BOTH reasons, even on a track you can't ensure actual traction conditions but for street use (don't kid yourself, you'll use it on the street) the conditions are even less predictable and maintaining traction means less chance of a spinout and wrecking your car. It definitely adds to the longevity of the drivetrain and all supporting bushings, axles, etc. Sudden bursts of torque are what breaks things.

The ONLY way I've seen people prevent themselves from using nitrous on the street is a lockout, either electrical or mechanical, that's not accessible while driving. Even then you will defeat the lockout eventually because the extra power on the fly is easy to justify lol.

 

Dropped my wheels off at the shop to get re-powdercoated. Should be a more shiny silver instead of the grayish silver they are now.

 

If you're tracking your G, 19s are a better choice but, if your G is going to see mostly street use than 20s are the way to go. I have 20s on my coupe and I LOVE the look and ride.

 

I have to respectfully disagree. Light 18s is the sweet spot for performance and ride. 19s and 20s are going to be heavier and their shorter sidewall will mean a rougher ride. Tires are cheaper too.

Looks on the other hand can be a debatable matter of opinion. I think 19s look best and 20s are too big on a small car like the G. But I can't argue with you that you think 20s look best. That opinion belongs to you and I respect it. We start trying to argue that and we end up like Tex and Jeff over in the political sub-forum

 

I really like the set up you have. Makes me want to paint my diffuser.