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I tested the burn out switch and one piece drive shaft that I fitted yesterday and drained gearbox oil and will leave it to drain overnight so I have something to do tomorrow too.
Burn out switch worked well but lit up the slip/abs light when used but resets when I turn the car off.
Dss drive shaft is similar to a lightweight flywheel in feeling and combined with a gktech diff brace- nolathane diff bush kit and z1 solid trans mount its a hole lot different to stock.
Filled up the gearbox today. I tried a trick to get the oil in there.
I had a old 5ltr garden pressure sprayer so after a good clean just put 4 quarts in it and pumped it up. One minute later the gearbox was full and no messy syringe or expensive pump needed.
I never heard of this method so I'm feeling clever today.
I found it smoother than stock at lower speeds but nowhere to do 120mph for me. What I found interesting was undoing the standard shaft bolts it took a fair bit of effort to turn but the one piece almost had no drag at all. I would check your diff bushing before installing because with no centre articulation the stiffer the diff the better. Adding a diff brace will help support things too.
06 G35 RWD stage 1 Bagged (AirTekk) , Spec D Headlights, Invidia Test Pipes, DCsport SRI
I just installed a DC sport SRI
So last week I put on a invidia test pipes and just yesterday I put on a DC sport short ram intake. The Check engine light came on but for only about half the day but it went off and now it sounds and rides amazing. You can definitely feel the difference in speed. does anyone know why the light decided to go off? Has this happen to anyone before? & should I be expecting it to come back on again?
So last week I put on a invidia test pipes and just yesterday I put on a DC sport short ram intake. The Check engine light came on but for only about half the day but it went off and now it sounds and rides amazing. You can definitely feel the difference in speed. does anyone know why the light decided to go off? Has this happen to anyone before? & should I be expecting it to come back on again?
Probably a catalytic efficiency code, if it comes back try adding a set of O2 sensor non-foulers to the downstream ones on those test pipes.
Getting an Uprev tune will also take care of your catalytic efficiency codes.
Purchased a Hotchkis sway bar kit, Whiteline end links, and Cusco tower strut bar. There's way too much body roll with this AWD setup. Even in stock form, the engine overpowers the chassis and suspension. It would be too sketchy for sure when I get the intakes, full exhaust, and tune installed.