Hey Im stuck on the grounding for the ASWC, can you let me know what you ended up doing? Did you connect the black ASWC to yellow and then tapped into the head unit ground and ran all the same ground? Im stumped, would appreciate your input!

 

nothing in the aswc should be connected to a yellow (radio constant power) wire.

oh yes, the ground and one of the 3 data wires (with one of the steering wheel control wires) connect to the radio ground. Red connects to accessory (switched 12v) wire and the other 2 data wires go to the correct steering wheel controls wires.

let me attach a pic. If it lets me

its for a 2006 g35 sedan but I’m sure it can be used for other years too.

if you have a specific year and car let me know and I’ll answer best I can.

 

I have a 2003 g35 coupe with bose. Do you attach all the grounds to a ring terminal on the frame? That's what I'm mostly confused about is where does the ground go. I see some posts showing a ring terminal with a screw and some just attaching the wires? Unless Im reading it wrong, Im confused. I appreciate your help!

 

If I assume right you have a Metra adapter harness that connects to the cars plugs and radio wires up to it.

if yes then all the grounds go to the black and black/white wire (both are grounds and need to be connected together).
if for some reason they aren’t there or you hardwiring it then all grounds go into a ring terminal and onto the frame behind radio.

for a Bose car, make sure you use the rca outputs on the radio (do not use speaker level outputs).

 

I have a PAC ROEM NIS2 wiring adapter harness that has a black ground cable, so having this adapter/harness, I don't need to attach any of the ground cables to the back of the stereo frame? and instead solder all the necessary grounds to the headunits harness ground which then all solders to the PAC ROEM NIS2 black ground cable and thats it? Sorry I have zero knowledge on wiring, and electronics, this is my first double din/stereo install.

 

If the harness comes with a ground wire as it should in that Infiniti then that’s all you need.

black wire off the harness hooks up to the ground wire of the radio and the aswc in addition to that extra ground from the steering wheel controls connector pin 11 if I remember correctly.

 

Was over thinking the whole thing, ended up installing and grounding everything to the frame and worked great. Also the only thing was tapping the parking brake wire which was blocking android auto from working, was looking for the purple and red wire didnt know where that was so I tapped into the light green with white wire thats directly connected to the e brake. Everything works great now.

 

for the ebrake that’s correct.
I did the same thing but I added a diode to my parking brake wire.

parkingbrake connector to radio wire and diode and the other side of diode to the parking brake wire from car.

some cars pulse a + signal or has voltage in the wire till parking brake it on and then it grounds out.
I didn’t want that + signal hitting my radio while parking brake was off so I installed a diode on the car side of the wire.
you don’t have to do this, I did it to prevent falses and glitching. My radio is $1,300 and took steps to prevent any electrical shocks. So my radio sees 0v parking brake off and a ground with it on, the diode prevents any current going into the radio parking brake wire.
yes I know it’s overkill and some.

as for your radio ground that’s fine.
I used the ground in the connector and connected all grounds to it.
my dash was out at one point so I cleaned all grounds there and even ran another one to the radio with a quick connect on the radio frame.

 

I got a Joying head unit that I'm going to use with the scosche kit and PAC ROEM NIS2. I'm a little confused on where the blue (ANT-CONT) and orange (AMP-CONT) goes to. Shown here is the headunit wiring diagram. Should the blue (ANT-CONT) go to the blue AntennaAMP/Power Antenna on the ROEM-NIS2? And should the orange (AMP-CONT) go to the blue/white remote (amp) on signal from the NIS2?

 

Wow these wire colors are way off from the standard wire colors.

basically the ant-cont wire goes to the antenna plug (there should be a wire coming off of it and it’s usually blue) and the amp-cont wire goes to your amp (if your car is a BOSE there is a blue/white wire in the Metra plug (same plug with yellow, red and black are in with front speaker wires, rear speakers are in the 2nd plug) you should be using with a blue/white) or an extra amp you installed. Both Metra plugs are needed and there’s 1 black and if I remember correctly 2-3 black/white wires, they also connect to ground.

if your car is a BOSE you should be using a Metra harness that has 4 rca not the pigtail one without rca.


What year is the car and is it a BOSE car (Bose has a sub in rear center deck).

If you need more detailed info I need to know what your installing it into.

 

The ANT-Control from your radio should not be used. It is a control wire that does not contain the required amps to power the antenna amplifier in our cars. Using it to power the antenna amp will give you poor reception, at best, and could burn out the power supply on your radio (unlikely, but possible). Wire according to the chart at the beginning, which is to have the antenna amplifier connected to switched(ACCessory) power (usually red on your wiring harness). The amp control goes to the bose amplifier on signal wire, according to the chart in the first post - blue/white.

 

the outputs are fused so hurting the radio will not happen and the ant amp barely pulls any current.

do not hook up the ant amp to acc wire, it will cause it to stay on even while you playing music from Bluetooth and even with the radio off but key in ignition.
I have hooked up the ant amp to the remote (blue/white) wire in the past but that’s only because the radio I was asked to install didn’t have a ant amp on wire (blue), it only had the remote wire (blue/white) so I didn’t have a choice.




I do this for a living.

 

In factory configuration, the antenna amp is always supplied power when the radio is on. It's not switched based on whether you're in radio or listening to CDs. Some people may drive with the radio off, but for me it's near 100%. The antenna amp is designed to be on continuously. Unlike many other vehicles, the antenna amp does not have a separate power source, it draws all of its power directly from the radio. I've lost the source, but the antenna amplifier was measured as a 2 amp draw - not a ton, but more than the typical limit on a signal or control wire, such as what Pioneer warns in installation manuals:


It's great that you do this for a living, but many, many installs done by people for a living failed at this install because they assumed our cars, like most, had a separate power circuit for the antenna amp and that only a signal wire was required. Before I did the research on this topic, a lot of people just assumed that bad radio reception was part of an aftermarket install.

Don't take this the wrong way, I don't know anything about you in particular, but there's a ton of people who do this for a living that know how to use a wiring chart and crimp wires, so doing it for a living isn't saying much. I wouldn't argue that as somebody who does this for a living you may more more about more cars, but I've kinda been down to the deep end in the G35s and know what and why things work with this audio system.

 

I will test that.

I have it hooked up to my alpine radio antenna turn on lead and it only turns on when I’ll listening to the radio only, all other sources it’s off.

as for the current draw I don’t know because if I remember correctly my alpine only puts out 500mA of current on that wire and I haven’t had any antenna issues. I will test the current draw of my antenna amp and see what it pulls.

 

The 2 amp draw information may have come from the size of the fuse used in aftermarket ones, even though reported draw on this one - .

There could be other factors that are making the radio's signal wire such a consistent cause of poor reception beyond the amount of power, but using the switched power source has so thoroughly eliminated poor radio reception from aftermarket installs that there's little reason not to use it.